urgent Porsche Hub Nubs
Discussion
Hi,
I had a bit of vibration under braking and thought why it I had it in bits investigating I would change the hub nuts. Is anybody alrady running the Porsche nuts for a while and do they seem ok.
Quick responses would be grateful as I'm about to start putting bits back on. (I was hoping it was going to be a loose nut rather than the discs.)
Thanks,
Rob.
I had a bit of vibration under braking and thought why it I had it in bits investigating I would change the hub nuts. Is anybody alrady running the Porsche nuts for a while and do they seem ok.
Quick responses would be grateful as I'm about to start putting bits back on. (I was hoping it was going to be a loose nut rather than the discs.)
Thanks,
Rob.
Edited by mr2turbo300 on Sunday 27th May 14:01
Rob - have you checked run-out on the hubs (front and rear) as well as the disks? My hubs were all way out (probably that way from new) causing high spots to develop on the disks over time. Vibratiion was just getting worse and worse.. Had to replace hubs/bearings and get the disks skimmed to cure the problem. Now the brakes are absolutely rock solid - best they've ever been.
RobP said:
Rob - have you checked run-out on the hubs (front and rear) as well as the disks? My hubs were all way out (probably that way from new) causing high spots to develop on the disks over time. Vibratiion was just getting worse and worse.. Had to replace hubs/bearings and get the disks skimmed to cure the problem. Now the brakes are absolutely rock solid - best they've ever been.
Thanks for the repies gents...Rob - How would you check the run-out on the hubs, I can imagine a dial gauge on the discs but not sure what you would check on the hubs?
Have cleaned up the brakes and fitted the Porshe nuts so will be interested to see if it makes any difference. The hub nuts were tighish, but nothing like the recomended torque so hopefully that was part of the problem.
Seemed quite good tonight, but too wet to really find out.
Rob.
mr2turbo300 said:
RobP said:
Rob - have you checked run-out on the hubs (front and rear) as well as the disks? My hubs were all way out (probably that way from new) causing high spots to develop on the disks over time. Vibratiion was just getting worse and worse.. Had to replace hubs/bearings and get the disks skimmed to cure the problem. Now the brakes are absolutely rock solid - best they've ever been.
Thanks for the repies gents...Rob - How would you check the run-out on the hubs, I can imagine a dial gauge on the discs but not sure what you would check on the hubs?
Have cleaned up the brakes and fitted the Porshe nuts so will be interested to see if it makes any difference. The hub nuts were tighish, but nothing like the recomended torque so hopefully that was part of the problem.
Seemed quite good tonight, but too wet to really find out.
Rob.
Over the years I've done lots of little things (including replacing disks) that have improved brake vibration for a while, but making sure everything is abolutely dead true ahead and dead flat (disks and pads) is the only way to get rid of it completely (and hopefully permanently).
Can you recall if you had any tight spots when rotating wheel (or preferably disk)? A sure sign that disc is warped or hubs are out (or both!)
mr2turbo300 said:
RobP said:
Rob - have you checked run-out on the hubs (front and rear) as well as the disks? My hubs were all way out (probably that way from new) causing high spots to develop on the disks over time. Vibratiion was just getting worse and worse.. Had to replace hubs/bearings and get the disks skimmed to cure the problem. Now the brakes are absolutely rock solid - best they've ever been.
Thanks for the repies gents...Rob - How would you check the run-out on the hubs, I can imagine a dial gauge on the discs but not sure what you would check on the hubs?
Have cleaned up the brakes and fitted the Porshe nuts so will be interested to see if it makes any difference. The hub nuts were tighish, but nothing like the recomended torque so hopefully that was part of the problem.
Seemed quite good tonight, but too wet to really find out.
Rob.[/quote
I did it using a hight guage with a dial gauge strapped to it, this way i got consistant repeatable readings, I checked all of the discs and the hubs four times and proved it was the hubs, took about an hour including taking the wheels off.
I have been thinking about this problem and cannot believe that the hubs could be machined incorrectly, I believe the excessive hub runnout is caused by warped discs somehow distorting the hubs, When i checked mine the front left was .08 (10thou) out, any more than 1 thou on the hub is to much, by the time this gets to the outside of the discs the distortion will be loads.
Hate to think what that would have been at the outer edge of the disk. Ever wondered why there is more brake-dust/pad wear on the near-side front? Had this on both my cars.I've been running the Porsche hub nuts for a while now and they hold well, huge improvement over the original nuts.
The Noble hub nuts are Ford Mondeo so not used to the loads the Noble puts on it, especially the LH driveshaft nut which tends to loosen with load as opposed to the RH driveshaft nut which tightens.
Loose hubs or bearings cause a long brake pedal, and rumbling noises from the bearings, they don't tend to cause brake judder.
The main cause of brake judder is, as mentioned above, discs/hub out of alignment or warped discs.
Sometimes a build up of pad material on the disc can also cause judder, which is cured by giving them a good caning! Rember to let them cool down properly though.
The Noble hub nuts are Ford Mondeo so not used to the loads the Noble puts on it, especially the LH driveshaft nut which tends to loosen with load as opposed to the RH driveshaft nut which tightens.
Loose hubs or bearings cause a long brake pedal, and rumbling noises from the bearings, they don't tend to cause brake judder.
The main cause of brake judder is, as mentioned above, discs/hub out of alignment or warped discs.
Sometimes a build up of pad material on the disc can also cause judder, which is cured by giving them a good caning! Rember to let them cool down properly though.
HELP!!
My dealer has just called to say that the porsche hub nuts that I've given them to fit on are a castle fit and require the driveshafts to be removed and a hole drilled through them so they can fit a securing pin through the castle bits and secure them.
I'm sure I gave prosche the correct part number, have you all drilled your driveshafts too, or have I got the wrond parts?
Greg
My dealer has just called to say that the porsche hub nuts that I've given them to fit on are a castle fit and require the driveshafts to be removed and a hole drilled through them so they can fit a securing pin through the castle bits and secure them.
I'm sure I gave prosche the correct part number, have you all drilled your driveshafts too, or have I got the wrond parts?
Greg
Mr Noble said:
HELP!!
My dealer has just called to say that the porsche hub nuts that I've given them to fit on are a castle fit and require the driveshafts to be removed and a hole drilled through them so they can fit a securing pin through the castle bits and secure them.
I'm sure I gave prosche the correct part number, have you all drilled your driveshafts too, or have I got the wrond parts?
Greg
Rightly or wrongly I fitted them anyway with semi permanent threadlock, didn't drill the hub.My dealer has just called to say that the porsche hub nuts that I've given them to fit on are a castle fit and require the driveshafts to be removed and a hole drilled through them so they can fit a securing pin through the castle bits and secure them.
I'm sure I gave prosche the correct part number, have you all drilled your driveshafts too, or have I got the wrond parts?
Greg
Rob.
chippie said:
Mr Noble said:
Chippie.
YHM
YHM too.YHM
Here's a photo of the porsche nut:
The nut seems to lock fine without any pin to hold it in place.
the four tangs are squashed inwards after manufacture so they screw on tight and stay put.
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