Discussion
Concur with all the above. Had a similar problem on my 350i this week. With engine running and no extra electrical load, my multimeter was reading 12.8 Volts - that's enough to keep the charge light off, but still too low. Oddly when I put load on (lights, fan etc) the voltage went up (yes up!!) 
to 13.3 volts although it quickly came down to 12 volts when I switched absolutely everything on. The solution was a new alternator. Now I get a steady 14.2 volts only dropping to 13.8 when everything is on. The new alternator also holds its voltage much better at low rpm. At tickover I still get 14.2 volts (admittedly with no extra load on), wheras the old alternator could only manage 12.5V at tickover.
The old alternator was a Lucas A133-65. The new one is a Lucas LRA407. It is Lucas' recommended replacement and is a 65 Amp unit. Top tip, don't go to Halfords!! They quoted me £127 plus my old unit for a new LRA407. I went to one of Lucas' own outlets where I paid £86 plus my old unit. They trade under the name LSUK in the phonebook.
Incidentally, my instrument panel voltmeter always reads 0.6 volts lower than a multimeter connected to the battery.
Hope this helps.
Sniffer
to 13.3 volts although it quickly came down to 12 volts when I switched absolutely everything on. The solution was a new alternator. Now I get a steady 14.2 volts only dropping to 13.8 when everything is on. The new alternator also holds its voltage much better at low rpm. At tickover I still get 14.2 volts (admittedly with no extra load on), wheras the old alternator could only manage 12.5V at tickover. The old alternator was a Lucas A133-65. The new one is a Lucas LRA407. It is Lucas' recommended replacement and is a 65 Amp unit. Top tip, don't go to Halfords!! They quoted me £127 plus my old unit for a new LRA407. I went to one of Lucas' own outlets where I paid £86 plus my old unit. They trade under the name LSUK in the phonebook.
Incidentally, my instrument panel voltmeter always reads 0.6 volts lower than a multimeter connected to the battery.
Hope this helps.
Sniffer
I believe the correct tension is 7-10mm movement on the long run of the drive belt (going from memory), and this seems to be about what I have.
I'm really concerned about going anywhere near the battery. I have this thing about 50 odd amps surging up my arms and across my chest. I don't have the first clue about electrickery, and don't own, nor do I ever want to own, a mutlimeter.
The fact that putting the headlights on when the fan is running can stall the engine perhaps implies a new alternator may be required?
I'm really concerned about going anywhere near the battery. I have this thing about 50 odd amps surging up my arms and across my chest. I don't have the first clue about electrickery, and don't own, nor do I ever want to own, a mutlimeter.
The fact that putting the headlights on when the fan is running can stall the engine perhaps implies a new alternator may be required?
Do you know someone with a meter who can use it?
The local garage diagnosed the alternator on the festa. I found the knackered wire that was not allowing the alternator to charge the battery and provide power to the car in general, alternator was fine. Not saying that is what is wrong but there may be a cheaper solution.... Needs checking.
The local garage diagnosed the alternator on the festa. I found the knackered wire that was not allowing the alternator to charge the battery and provide power to the car in general, alternator was fine. Not saying that is what is wrong but there may be a cheaper solution.... Needs checking.
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