Rough running - again
Discussion
How-do all!
After spending nealy £1300 trying to cure a running problem, it's still there, in fact it's getting worse...
Symptoms...
1: Engine idles roughly (i.e. not smoothly) around 600 - 800 causing who car to rock from side to side,
2: Engine revs have an intermittant habit of almost dieing when dipping the clutch approaching a junction - and has died on several occaisions...
3: Accelerates smoothly but cruises with a lumpy feel to it,
4: Recently started pinking (or rattling badly somewhere) when accelerating from 30mph in 5th gear with a severe lack of grunt. No pinking / rattling noticed at any other time
So far, I've:
Cleaned stepper motor,
Full dose of Wynns Extreme fuel system cleaner
Tried spare HT leads,
Removed resistors on distributor outputs
Replaced cam shaft,
Fitted new air filter,
Replaced stepper motor,
Replaced HT leads with new,
Removed plug estenders,
Checked & adjusted timing (twice),
Reset the ECU after trying each of the above,
Clamping / restricting pipe from carbon can in case it was full of petrol,
Has been suggested it might be a dodgy ignition coil, fault in the fuel system,...
If anyone as any ideas or suggestions of a cheaper way to solve this problem than by replacing everything they would be much appreciated!
Thanks & regards
Mark
(at wits end!)
After spending nealy £1300 trying to cure a running problem, it's still there, in fact it's getting worse...
Symptoms...
1: Engine idles roughly (i.e. not smoothly) around 600 - 800 causing who car to rock from side to side,
2: Engine revs have an intermittant habit of almost dieing when dipping the clutch approaching a junction - and has died on several occaisions...
3: Accelerates smoothly but cruises with a lumpy feel to it,
4: Recently started pinking (or rattling badly somewhere) when accelerating from 30mph in 5th gear with a severe lack of grunt. No pinking / rattling noticed at any other time
So far, I've:
Cleaned stepper motor,
Full dose of Wynns Extreme fuel system cleaner
Tried spare HT leads,
Removed resistors on distributor outputs
Replaced cam shaft,
Fitted new air filter,
Replaced stepper motor,
Replaced HT leads with new,
Removed plug estenders,
Checked & adjusted timing (twice),
Reset the ECU after trying each of the above,
Clamping / restricting pipe from carbon can in case it was full of petrol,
Has been suggested it might be a dodgy ignition coil, fault in the fuel system,...
If anyone as any ideas or suggestions of a cheaper way to solve this problem than by replacing everything they would be much appreciated!
Thanks & regards
Mark
(at wits end!)
Get in toush with Mark Adams and have him sort it out on a rolling road (either Uxbridge or Cheltenham).
That will be your best (and cheapest) way to get these things sorted. He'll probably get you more BHP at the same time!
His details are:
01694 720144 Home
07798 582390 Mobile
01694 720143 Fax
mark.adams@bjds.com
That will be your best (and cheapest) way to get these things sorted. He'll probably get you more BHP at the same time!
His details are:
01694 720144 Home
07798 582390 Mobile
01694 720143 Fax
mark.adams@bjds.com
philip_cooke said: Get in touch with Mark Adams and have him sort it out on a rolling road (either Uxbridge or Cheltenham).
Seconded! My Griff had a problem with rough running when cold and Mark did a brilliant job on it. He fixed the problem and came up with an extra 50 BHP from somewhere...
Sounds ECU related (so that narrows it down 
). From reading the bible there are lots of possible causes as the ECU uses quite a few sensors. Very easy to go down the trial and error route and end up replacing half the engine before stumbling across the problem.
David Batty sorted mine out when I had an intermittent misfire. (Some similar symptoms to yours). Took a week or so to trouble shoot it. He tracked it down to a loose Hall switch inside the distributor behind a bit of plastic that says "don't remove". This tells the ECU the position of the rotor arm. My ECU was getting the rotor arm position offset by a few degrees because the sensor was rattling around. A pretty impressive bit of detective work to identify that problem!
If I were you I'd get the car to someone like Mark or David and let them have a go. I'd guess paying for their experience will end up saving you money.
). From reading the bible there are lots of possible causes as the ECU uses quite a few sensors. Very easy to go down the trial and error route and end up replacing half the engine before stumbling across the problem. David Batty sorted mine out when I had an intermittent misfire. (Some similar symptoms to yours). Took a week or so to trouble shoot it. He tracked it down to a loose Hall switch inside the distributor behind a bit of plastic that says "don't remove". This tells the ECU the position of the rotor arm. My ECU was getting the rotor arm position offset by a few degrees because the sensor was rattling around. A pretty impressive bit of detective work to identify that problem!
If I were you I'd get the car to someone like Mark or David and let them have a go. I'd guess paying for their experience will end up saving you money.
I agree about getting the car on a rolling road - no point in spending more money without knowing what the problem is. A Mark Adams rechip should work wonders.
I recently had to put my std chip back in to check something out ... my god the car ran lumpily and it felt really slow. Dropped Mark's EPROM (Tornado) back in with my car's custom mapping at it felt soooo smooth and went like a rocket. It's worth it, honest.
Trefor/.
I recently had to put my std chip back in to check something out ... my god the car ran lumpily and it felt really slow. Dropped Mark's EPROM (Tornado) back in with my car's custom mapping at it felt soooo smooth and went like a rocket. It's worth it, honest.
Trefor/.
Morning all,
Hmm, sounds like a Mark Adams tuning sessing could be the way to go..., though at £600 a time this is getting to be a big bill!
- I havn't had the car for two years and the maintenance bills are already approaching £6k!
Will keep prodding things for a while, just in case I get lucky...
Anyone know what could cause pinking under heavy load even if the timing has been set correctly?
Cheers!
Mark
Hmm, sounds like a Mark Adams tuning sessing could be the way to go..., though at £600 a time this is getting to be a big bill!
- I havn't had the car for two years and the maintenance bills are already approaching £6k! Will keep prodding things for a while, just in case I get lucky...
Anyone know what could cause pinking under heavy load even if the timing has been set correctly?
Cheers!
Mark
mark c said: Morning all,
Hmm, sounds like a Mark Adams tuning sessing could be the way to go..., though at £600 a time this is getting to be a big bill!
Will keep prodding things for a while, just in case I get lucky...
Anyone know what could cause pinking under heavy load even if the timing has been set correctly?
Cheers!
Mark
Could be lots of things, but whatever it is will be slowly knackering your engine if it is pinking quite a lot. I'm sorry to say this, but stop fiddling and go to a Rover V8 specialist - cheaper than a new engine - just find out the price of a pair of heads before you decide to keep fiddling.
Don't take this personally, but I'd hate you to end up in more trouble than you are in right now.
P.S. If much of your past repairs have been carried out by a specialist I recommend finding another one - a second pair of eyes etc. etc.
Trefor said:
mark c said: Morning all,
Hmm, sounds like a Mark Adams tuning sessing could be the way to go..., though at £600 a time this is getting to be a big bill!
Will keep prodding things for a while, just in case I get lucky...
Anyone know what could cause pinking under heavy load even if the timing has been set correctly?
Cheers!
Mark
Could be lots of things, but whatever it is will be slowly knackering your engine if it is pinking quite a lot. I'm sorry to say this, but stop fiddling and go to a Rover V8 specialist - cheaper than a new engine - just find out the price of a pair of heads before you decide to keep fiddling.
Don't take this personally, but I'd hate you to end up in more trouble than you are in right now.
P.S. If much of your past repairs have been carried out by a specialist I recommend finding another one - a second pair of eyes etc. etc.
I agree.
I have NEVER had a poor running problem fixed, despite going through adjusting / changing lots of bits at great expense. So either take it to a GOOD specialist, or do what I've done every time in the past and ended up trading it in for another one.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff