Chassis treatment
Discussion
Noticed the original silver powdercoat is flaking and some surface rust is evident in the outriggers on the 96 chim.
My approach was going to be this:
-systematically remove rust/flakiness/ crap with dremel type tool.
-when chassis is clean and keyed paint with a few coats of hammerite
- finish with waxoyl (painted not sprayed)
What do you think, any suggestions, and would you paint all of it ie top pot of the longitudanl runners etc??
cheers
Ross
My approach was going to be this:
-systematically remove rust/flakiness/ crap with dremel type tool.
-when chassis is clean and keyed paint with a few coats of hammerite
- finish with waxoyl (painted not sprayed)
What do you think, any suggestions, and would you paint all of it ie top pot of the longitudanl runners etc??
cheers
Ross
It is possible to clean and paint the top of the outriggers. There are numerous thread on this. I found that once it has been throughly cleaned with brushes etc, it can be painted. I used a piece of malleable steel sheet, and glued a piece of towelling to it and bent it into a hook at the end. This could then be dipped in the hammerite and slid between the body and the outrigger to paint the top quite nicely. Its quite intensive on the hammerite. Ended up using 2 litres to do 2 coats of the chassis.
Stardust , just doing my new Chim at the moment . I have already done one and its a long hard job.
Couple of things i have found .
1 Some hacksaw blades bend quite well which are idea for scrapping the outriggers.
2 Hammerite Kurust changes the rust to black quite well, but put on and wipe off so it leaves a thin coating.
3 If you use Yacht type epoxy resin ( what you use to make carbon fibre mat into somthing worth while) it goes on like paint it cures as hard as nails and is almost impossible to sand ( very different to normal polyester type resin.) I.e i have done rust repairs to fiats in the 90's with still no visual return on the vehicle now. This can be painted over with smoothrite.
4 In the high impacting areas, say outrigger body mount on front of the rear wheel, spray stonechip paint before final coat of smoothwrite as it give the paint a flexible backing so it is harder to chip.
5 If its the silver/ grey coating of a pre white coated ( more like crap white paint on my 98 car ), you will find 1 can of silver smoothrite and half a can of grey give a reasonable match.
6. It also worth getting the waxoyle brand of black underseal( it goes on quite smooth ) and coating the inside of the wheel arches to stop the coating from chipping especially near the edges where the body paint has the potential to come off with it.
7.Oh and one thing i forgot to mention is get a gallon of degreaser and a brush as it will probably need a massive degrease and clean up first to se where you are working, which will then need hosing off. Guess it gave the garage floor a good clean as well. !
I have gone to town a bit on this one and shocks and roll bars are off, fuel pump filters , exhaust mounts, and about 300 cables . You will find the N/S/rear the worst to do .
Couple of things i have found .
1 Some hacksaw blades bend quite well which are idea for scrapping the outriggers.
2 Hammerite Kurust changes the rust to black quite well, but put on and wipe off so it leaves a thin coating.
3 If you use Yacht type epoxy resin ( what you use to make carbon fibre mat into somthing worth while) it goes on like paint it cures as hard as nails and is almost impossible to sand ( very different to normal polyester type resin.) I.e i have done rust repairs to fiats in the 90's with still no visual return on the vehicle now. This can be painted over with smoothrite.
4 In the high impacting areas, say outrigger body mount on front of the rear wheel, spray stonechip paint before final coat of smoothwrite as it give the paint a flexible backing so it is harder to chip.
5 If its the silver/ grey coating of a pre white coated ( more like crap white paint on my 98 car ), you will find 1 can of silver smoothrite and half a can of grey give a reasonable match.
6. It also worth getting the waxoyle brand of black underseal( it goes on quite smooth ) and coating the inside of the wheel arches to stop the coating from chipping especially near the edges where the body paint has the potential to come off with it.
7.Oh and one thing i forgot to mention is get a gallon of degreaser and a brush as it will probably need a massive degrease and clean up first to se where you are working, which will then need hosing off. Guess it gave the garage floor a good clean as well. !
I have gone to town a bit on this one and shocks and roll bars are off, fuel pump filters , exhaust mounts, and about 300 cables . You will find the N/S/rear the worst to do .
Edited by Rum Runner on Thursday 31st May 23:49
I found that I could get around the n/s outrigger quite nicley, therefore I 'looped' bands of emery cloth over the top and pulled feverishly back and forth. Hack saw blades work well also to poke the flaking power coating off from the top of the outriggers. I found that Dinitrol do a rust spray that comes with a 360 degree spray head (and a couple of feet of hose) which goes everywhere (wear gloves as it is very difficult to get off your hands once it has gone all 'gooey'). You can poke this up between the body and the outrigger in various places. I'm going to use the same piece of hose and spray head to see if I can attach a tin of aersol Hammerite to get on top of the outrigger.
Dirty, stinking, horrid job..........but quite pleased now the worst is over !!
Dirty, stinking, horrid job..........but quite pleased now the worst is over !!
Rum Runner said:
3 If you use Yacht type epoxy resin ( what you use to make carbon fibre mat into somthing worth while) it goes on like paint it cures as hard as nails and is almost impossible to sand
Hi RR, first time I have seen this resin advice on a chassis treatment thread. Sounds like its a one off coating that will last and hold off future corrosion is that correct ? If not how does it come off in future treatments if your "impossible to sand" comment is valid ?
Please dont think im criticising its just I think its a cracking idea - no pun intended
Hi Mdo
It is sand able like a carbon fibre mast or spoiler just much much harder then standard polyester resin., When using it on boat repairs you tend to make sure it is not proud of the surround laminate or you find everything else around your epoxy repair has been sanded away and now your repair is even more proud. If you look at boat hulls most are made with polyester resin, boats suffer from osmosis where water in drawn through into the composite. On carbon boats this is very rare as epoxy resin is used which is it two hard.
When a standard GRP (polyester same as TVR body) boat gets osmosis it has to be planed stipped back like a road repair dried out and the gelshield is then applied which is a funny enough a epoxy coating .This can be applied to a new boat to stop the osmosis happening in the first place.
Once it goes on the chassis( sometimes two coats if it does not flow well), it will be a long long time before it comes back. The resin is almost to hard to chip spread and blister, if it does chip it does not spread . I think in the states now they are doing a similar product with a classic car picture on the front instead of a boat.
I think they use yacht style epoxy to put the Lotus chassis together on the Elise bonded instead of welding its stronger .
It is still a bloody horrid job though, but at least once its done you can forget about it .
It is sand able like a carbon fibre mast or spoiler just much much harder then standard polyester resin., When using it on boat repairs you tend to make sure it is not proud of the surround laminate or you find everything else around your epoxy repair has been sanded away and now your repair is even more proud. If you look at boat hulls most are made with polyester resin, boats suffer from osmosis where water in drawn through into the composite. On carbon boats this is very rare as epoxy resin is used which is it two hard.
When a standard GRP (polyester same as TVR body) boat gets osmosis it has to be planed stipped back like a road repair dried out and the gelshield is then applied which is a funny enough a epoxy coating .This can be applied to a new boat to stop the osmosis happening in the first place.
Once it goes on the chassis( sometimes two coats if it does not flow well), it will be a long long time before it comes back. The resin is almost to hard to chip spread and blister, if it does chip it does not spread . I think in the states now they are doing a similar product with a classic car picture on the front instead of a boat.
I think they use yacht style epoxy to put the Lotus chassis together on the Elise bonded instead of welding its stronger .
It is still a bloody horrid job though, but at least once its done you can forget about it .
Edited by Rum Runner on Saturday 2nd June 23:24
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff