Headlamp motor / pod adjustment?
Discussion
Bit of a tricky one....
one headlight does not park flush with the bodywork. Long story but I stripped and switched motors some time ago when I had the dreaded cyclops problem and it hasnt been right since.
Anyway both motors are working fine,it appears that one motor parks in a slighty different position to the other. I can see this by where the crank arm sits.
The crank arm in located properly in the recess and has not worn. The gears in the motor seem to mesh ok
I can of course adjust the linkage to get the pod to sit flush with the body but then the lamp does not pop up fully!
Is it possible to adjust the position where the motor actually parks? so that both crank arms stop in the same place. Thats the best that i can think of now!
Any ideas appreciated as its been like this for a while now.
one headlight does not park flush with the bodywork. Long story but I stripped and switched motors some time ago when I had the dreaded cyclops problem and it hasnt been right since.
Anyway both motors are working fine,it appears that one motor parks in a slighty different position to the other. I can see this by where the crank arm sits.
The crank arm in located properly in the recess and has not worn. The gears in the motor seem to mesh ok
I can of course adjust the linkage to get the pod to sit flush with the body but then the lamp does not pop up fully!
Is it possible to adjust the position where the motor actually parks? so that both crank arms stop in the same place. Thats the best that i can think of now!
Any ideas appreciated as its been like this for a while now.
I am fairly certain the answer is yes the limit switch positions can be adjusted.
Problem is - don't ask me how - but this was discussed previously - try searching this forum I guess 12 - 18 month ago. There was also reference to a how to refurb / repair article.
Hope this helps - if you crack this, probably a good one to publish on here for others.
David
Problem is - don't ask me how - but this was discussed previously - try searching this forum I guess 12 - 18 month ago. There was also reference to a how to refurb / repair article.
Hope this helps - if you crack this, probably a good one to publish on here for others.
David
Hi ferlin, I had the same problem when I first got my wedge. I spent ages playing with the adjuster and still couldnt get it good enough. Then it dawned on me that this only adjusts the amount of travel so I slotted the holes in the bracket and rotated the motor a bit and hey presto.
Kev
Kev
The limit switches in the motor gearbox are non-adjustable. If the crank arms are definitely stopping in different positions it's most likely that one of them has turned on the motor shaft. The shaft has two flats on it that supposedly engage with corresponding flats in the crank arm. Quite often the motor grinds the flats away and the crank moves round on the motor shaft. It's not helped by people manually trying to move the pods.
As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.
As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.
Wedg1e said:
The limit switches in the motor gearbox are non-adjustable. If the crank arms are definitely stopping in different positions it's most likely that one of them has turned on the motor shaft. The shaft has two flats on it that supposedly engage with corresponding flats in the crank arm. Quite often the motor grinds the flats away and the crank moves round on the motor shaft. It's not helped by people manually trying to move the pods.
As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.
resurecting an old thread here because I still havent got to the bottom of this problem and its been a while!As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.
Wedg1e are you saying that there is a screw in the motor that adjusts where the closed position is? As the headlight pod still sits around 1/2 inch too high when down.
Crank arm is positioned on the shaft correctly as the flats are not worn.
Edited by ferlin on Tuesday 5th August 09:30
I don't know if you've sorted this problem, but I had a similar thing when I changed motors. I stripped and changed the gear wheel in the motor. I assume that I got the wheel one tooth out. Solved it by adjusting it out on the adjustable arm. Lamps come up at slightly different times now though!
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