Discussion
Looks similar to this , but this needs no primer.
http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products/usage/ug_kuru...
http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products/usage/ug_kuru...
I've done quite a lot of research on this topic...
For "rust killing", there are two main agents- phosphoric acid and tannic acid.
Tannic acid kills the rust and turns it into a blackish hard shell which you can paint over. Oxyalic acid does a similar thing. An example of this is Hammerite's Kurust, as well as hundreds of other products. This Jenoseel, despite claiming it doesn't contain "acid", will 99% likely be a form of tannic acid. You should topcoat, but it will protect for a while (1/2 years). Not a hard-wearing surface.
Phosphoric acid e.g. Jenolite and the Hammerite Rust Removing Gel, removes acid as well. It leaves the metal shiny (looks great) and leaves a phosphate coating on top which helps protect against flash rust. Also needs to be top coated as it is not a hard-wearing surface.
This is where you need Rust Bullet or POR15. Both have similar aims- I chose Rust Bullet as I preferred its science.
My Chimaera now has the outriggers treated with phosphoric acid gel, rinsed off, then painted over with Rust Bullet. Looks good and is damned solid.
I then used a flower sprayer to spray Kurust over the top of the outriggers to catch bits I can't see and couldn't get the paint to cover. Should be only a small percentage of the whole, but it counts.
I am next going to use Dinitrol 3125 (you could also use waxoil) to protect the tops.
The wax DOES not stop rust - it just stops air/water getting to the metal. The disadvantage of it is that it gets everywhere and could then hide from view rust forming.
Rather a long post! but there is no much **** on the internet and sometimes even PH about rust.
Bear in mind that there are only a few chemicals which help and there are hundred different companies packaging and making identical claims about their own special product.
For "rust killing", there are two main agents- phosphoric acid and tannic acid.
Tannic acid kills the rust and turns it into a blackish hard shell which you can paint over. Oxyalic acid does a similar thing. An example of this is Hammerite's Kurust, as well as hundreds of other products. This Jenoseel, despite claiming it doesn't contain "acid", will 99% likely be a form of tannic acid. You should topcoat, but it will protect for a while (1/2 years). Not a hard-wearing surface.
Phosphoric acid e.g. Jenolite and the Hammerite Rust Removing Gel, removes acid as well. It leaves the metal shiny (looks great) and leaves a phosphate coating on top which helps protect against flash rust. Also needs to be top coated as it is not a hard-wearing surface.
This is where you need Rust Bullet or POR15. Both have similar aims- I chose Rust Bullet as I preferred its science.
My Chimaera now has the outriggers treated with phosphoric acid gel, rinsed off, then painted over with Rust Bullet. Looks good and is damned solid.
I then used a flower sprayer to spray Kurust over the top of the outriggers to catch bits I can't see and couldn't get the paint to cover. Should be only a small percentage of the whole, but it counts.
I am next going to use Dinitrol 3125 (you could also use waxoil) to protect the tops.
The wax DOES not stop rust - it just stops air/water getting to the metal. The disadvantage of it is that it gets everywhere and could then hide from view rust forming.
Rather a long post! but there is no much **** on the internet and sometimes even PH about rust.
Bear in mind that there are only a few chemicals which help and there are hundred different companies packaging and making identical claims about their own special product.
Also came across fertan rust converter anybody have any experience of using this product i am thinking about using this although my chimaera's chassis is in good nick just surface rust in a few places i thought this would add peace of mind.
www.fertan.co.uk
www.fertan.co.uk
The wheels are azev type a with a deeper dish on the rear, put on by Bluethunder a previous owner, made to order and shiped from Germany.
www.azev.com
www.azev.com
I've actually been using Jenoseel quite a bit today and have had some great results! I decided it was time to sort out the wishbones and outriggers with a summer coat so scraped off all flakey paint with a flathead screwdriver and a wire brush, then painted the stuff on and it turned the brown rust to a sort of light grey, smooth metal-like finish in 5-10 minutes. I did this all over and finished off with a couple of coats of hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl (the really thick black stuff, brush for most, spray can for the tricky bits) and I now seem to have very smart black looking metal...
All in all it certainly looks bombproof, but time shall tell!
All in all it certainly looks bombproof, but time shall tell!
Edited by thenick on Friday 15th June 01:04
Edited by thenick on Saturday 16th June 10:54
As manufacturers of Jenoseel, I can assure you that Jenoseel does NOT contain acid! It is a unique product which we have been selling for over 25 years. Jenoseel works in its dry state, involving a slow chemical reaction which gradually converts rust. It is also a very tough primer which gives a very long life. I would be pleased to answer any queries, or see our website www.jenoseel.com
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