master cylinder strip
Discussion
anyone ever taken apart a chim master cylinder? after a titanic battle i have extracted my pedal box for master cyl and clutch cyl replacement / overhaul, but can't see how to dismantle the master cylinder. It lools very similar to several ford types, so I'm thinking if i can get it apart i can go to a scrappy and see if the internals are the same as a more available ford item (and cheaper)...
it's not a circlip type, so any ideas guys? tip for getting the reservoir off too appreciated.....
cheers all
schmo
it's not a circlip type, so any ideas guys? tip for getting the reservoir off too appreciated.....
cheers all
schmo
That Daddy said:
In my opinion it is a waiste of time/money resealing a brake master cylinder especially steel ones,they corrode internally.
Agreed but the tivver one is so similar to several ford ones if i can get it apart (and one or two down the scrappy) i can (maybe) find a ford one that is the same internally. then with a couple of adapters i can maybe use it with the tvr brake pipes that run from the m/c to the bulkhead side. the presence of the non functional bleed nipple on the top of the m/c (used as a blanking off fitting)also suggests to me that it is a ford unit from a car or van adapted for the tivver. then i don't have to spend 130 quid, more like 40 or 50....schmokin1 said:
That Daddy said:
In my opinion it is a waiste of time/money resealing a brake master cylinder especially steel ones,they corrode internally.
Agreed but the tivver one is so similar to several ford ones if i can get it apart (and one or two down the scrappy) i can (maybe) find a ford one that is the same internally. then with a couple of adapters i can maybe use it with the tvr brake pipes that run from the m/c to the bulkhead side. the presence of the non functional bleed nipple on the top of the m/c (used as a blanking off fitting)also suggests to me that it is a ford unit from a car or van adapted for the tivver. then i don't have to spend 130 quid, more like 40 or 50....That Daddy said:
Ford fiesta mk3, unless someone can correct me its not Tvr specific.
aha! great i will have a good look at that one first!Another question, TD, if you don't mind? my m/c leaked fluid out where it fits in to the servo housing and where the pushrod comes through the servo. do you think fluid might have got in to the servo internals. or am i right in thinking that if fluid could get in so could air and the servo would have been hissing or not working correctly?
cheers
schmo
Gsw500 said:
Schmo,
I need to replace my master cylinder.
Heard its a pig of a job so just how long did it take to remove the pedal box.
Are there any pointers with regards to obstacles etc I want to make it as painless as possible.
Cheers,
Gsw500
my car is a '94 400 chim (don't know if it makes a difference). Probs I encountered with the pedalboxectomy:I need to replace my master cylinder.
Heard its a pig of a job so just how long did it take to remove the pedal box.
Are there any pointers with regards to obstacles etc I want to make it as painless as possible.
Cheers,
Gsw500
1/ Getting the steering column uj off in the front wheelarch - ended up unbolting the rack to allow the shaft to slide forward. much heave ho / levering to open up the uj needed (ist set of skinned knuckles here)
2/ detaching the column to bulkhead collar - be sure to thoroughly remove any silicone from the allen fittings in the head of the bolts - if don't it will stop allen key from fully fitting in and round off the fitting, meaning you have to cut off the bolt in the footwell (not to difficult tho)
3/ don't piss about trying to get the pedal box out past the steering column - remove the coloumn covers (easy) and disconnect the wiring plug fittings and remove the column totally.
4/ the four hydraulic unions in the side of the footwell need to be held with a spanner and the union undone, all from the footwell side or you risk buggering the pipes where they fix to the other side of the unions in the engine bay by spinning them around. the correct spanner, certainly for the brake unions (the three thinner pipes, the fatter one is the clutch pipe) is a whitworth spanner, metric or unf is no good. do drain the brake and clutch cyls first and have a big cloth handy as it still drips. I have my carpets out but if i didn't i would gaffer tape in some plastic sheet to protect.
5/ if you cant get the accelerator cable fitting out of the top of the accelerator pedal it might be carpet glue holding it in. a couple of hours of hacksawing/levering/pliering to clean up the slot will free it (no i'm not bitter. allright I'm bitter
) alternatively unbolt the accelerator pedal if you can (i couldnt).6/ if you don't take off the acc pedal it will foul the air duct on the right side of the footwell. i just crushed the duct a bit to get it past but don't know how it's going to go back in yet. don't think a bit of crumpling will hurt the duct as long as it isn't punctured.
7/ there are four bolts holding the top of the pedal box to the inner wing. one (outermost rear) is countersunk and painted over so you have to look for it and chip off the paint I'm afraid.
Should only take a whole day or so to get it out!! Enjoy!
Gsw500 said:
Schmo...
Many thanks for info, very helpful.
I think I'll take some photos when I do mine in case someone else needs advice...
Not looking forward to it tho..
Cheers,
Gsw500
are you doing it soon? i haven't had time to check out fully that the fiesta mk3 master cylinder is the one to go for... are you going to pay the 130 quid from tvr parts dealers or try the ford one? if ford, could you let me know if it (the fiesta one) is an exact match? I'm a bit held up at the mo, small matter of a wedding!Many thanks for info, very helpful.
I think I'll take some photos when I do mine in case someone else needs advice...
Not looking forward to it tho..
Cheers,
Gsw500
schmo
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