My next job, oil and filter change... Any advice appreciate!

[markbigears]

Flushed with my success of a water pump, coil, dizzy cap, plugs replacement I almost feel like a seasoned TVR mechanic, anyway, my last job on my list is the oil and filter. So with Mobil 15/50 motorsport oil, filter, plug and washer in hand, i'm after any practical advice that will help my not get oil all over me. Tips i'm after, how is the best way to get the filter off? and from top or underneath car and torque setting for the plug if any. And basically anything i've not thought of. Cheers guys for the help. Mark

[pies]

M|ark you're no mechanic until you've been covered with oil at least once

Warm the engine first ,the oil will flow out better

[ketvrin]

I got to my filter from below with the car well up on blocks and it was not easy and I did get covered in oil... since then I reckon I could get to the filter from above - right at the back of the engine bay on the offside - looks cluttered but its all hoses and wires down there so I reckon I could get a wrench in there if I was careful.
I trust you got the smaller (squatter) oil filter so you have plenty clearance then ?

enjoy

K

[jimed]

Get it jacked up with some axle stands or something else (blocks of wood or whatever is secure) supporting it other than just the jack (important - the last thing you want is for the jack to go whilst you are under the car - so always have it on something else as security!!)and get a bowl handy to catch the oil then undo the sump plug and allow the oil to drain out. This is better if the engine has been warmed up as the oil will drain quicker/better. While its draining get the filter off - from under the car is easiest (you could try from on top and see how you get on but mine has been done from underneath) and you may need to use a filter grip thingy unless the use of a bit of sandpaper or similar to grip it is enough. Put a little smear of oil on the rubber sealing ring on the new filter and screw it on giving it a reasonably firm amount of tightening but you don't have to be too heavy with it - this is done by hand as the filter grip will usually make a mess of the filter. When all the oil has drained out refit the sump plug - a new copper washer is useful if the old one is badly damaged but they can often be reused if OK. A good tightening is OK but if you want to be correct Haynes says 15-21 lb/ft. Refill with oil to about the top mark then start the engine and allow to run for a couple of mins to ensure no leaks then switch off and take off the stands etc back to the ground. Allow the oil to settle and then top up to the full mark - job done!!
Jim

Edited by jimed on Monday 18th June 17:40

[markbigears]

Thanks guys, yet again!, for your input..... exactly what I was after.
Yup, have jack and stands, have oil filter (motorcraft one part no. from TVR S parts list, looks like the fram one I have fitted), just need to buy a gripper, although steve heaths book says a screw driver in it to got it off!
Looking forward to getting covered in liquid gold! Thanks for the torque setting Jim. (another excuse to use my new torque wrench!)

[tvrgit]

Just make sure that the filter isn't the standard Motorcraft 2.9 one - the Granada has masses of space so they put a huge filter on. The TVR one is a bigger diameter but shorter in length, so that it doesn't hit the chassis.

Agree that a gripper type wrench from underneath is best - access for a strap wrench is limited and sticking screwdrivers through is guaranteed messy (having said that you are guaranteed to spill some (ok lots of) oil). Once you get it loose you can unscrew it from above which at least means that the oil in the filter doesn't empty all over you.

Good advice on warming the engine up first too - the oil is slightly thinner. Just warm it though to make it less gooey - if you heat the engine to operating temp, then any spilt oil, like the first splash when the drain plug comes out, WILL burn you.

More good advice there about a wee tiny smear of fresh oil on the new filter sealing ring - just enough to stop the rubber from "crimping" as the filter is tightened that last wee bit.

Remember (and this seems so obvious but I've seen it done - not by me I hasten to add) remember to put the sump plug back in before you refill with new oil.

I'm doing mine this weekend - bought the oil and filter on Saturday, just remembered now that I need a sump plug sealing washer (mine is sealed with ptfe because it was dripping very slightly).

[markbigears]

So warm the oil for say 2 minutes? Oil filter is the small squashed type and looks the right one, better be, the alternative S parts guide hasn't let me down yet sourcing genuine parts yet. Good call on refitting the sump plug, made me laugh, although at £45 for 5 lites, I think that would quickly wear off.

[jimed]

Two mins at tick over may not be enough to get it to run out nicely so maybe 5 mins or so? - but as above don't get it all over you and remember when you take the sump plug out it will spurt out a bit so get your hand suitably positioned above the plug if you can and also the bowl lifted up initially or it will be everywhere!
Jim

[Jed-S]

A tip for removing a filter where a wrench doesn't easily fit is to wear a washing up rubber glove. You can get a really good grip on filters wearing these.

To improve access to the filter you can lift the body off the chassis. Makes it so much easier to access anything then.