Tightening your chain

[Grant.D]

Is this something anyone on here does themselves or should it be taken to the dealer?

Thanks,
Grant

[biker's nemesis]

Hi Grant.

It is quite a simple task to do, and one that you should be able to do yourself.

What I suggest you do is read the hand book that comes with your bike, and then come back and ask for advice, I will be more than willing to help if you are not sure.

You should be checking your tyre pressure's, Oil levels, both as I believe it's a two stroke and chain tension at the very least weekly.

There is no substitute for being able to do these things yourself, as you may notice other things that might need attention.

If you do get stuck, reply here or PM me.

John.

[dern]

I do everything myself but tightening your chain is piss easy. The most important thing to do is to ensure the rear wheel is still in line once you've got the right amount of play in the chain. You can do that with a straight bit of wood, place it alongside the rear wheel and measure to the front wheel spindle each side and you'll get it aligned right. Personally I tape a bit of string to the back of the wheel use that to check the alignment but this is kind of difficult to describe (just tried and it was so confusing I deleted it) so you'll either get it or you won't. Maybe someone else could have a crack at describing it.

If you live near me (Newbury) then I can show you how to do it if you like.

Regards,

Mark

Edited by dern on Tuesday 19th June 19:11

[Grant.D]

Thanks guys, I had a look in the manual and all it says is take it to your Aprilia dealer, I feel a bit like im bothering the dealer by taking it in and asking him to do something as easy as tighen the chain. I'll have a crack at it myself, thanks again for the quick replys.

[dern]

Grant.D said:

I feel a bit like im bothering the dealer by taking it in and asking him to do something as easy as tighen the chain.

He won't mind, he'll charge you an hours labour

[m3psm]

Where are you based Grant? I'm sure a local PHer will be glad to show you how it's done

Once you've done it once it'll be a breeze next time

[Grant.D]

Problem solved, my brother is going to get one of his friends to pop by tomorrow to show me how to do it, thanks for all the help anyway guys Its very much appreciated.

[Buelligan 984]

Grant,

To make it easier next time, once you've found the tight spot put a mark (tippex etc) on the appropriate link so you don't have to look for it again next time around.

Dave

[Glade]

If you have them - make sure that the alignment indicators (the triangular bit by the axel nut in the left hand side of the photo) don't spin round and scratch up your swingarm when you loosen the axel nut (Like i did this weekend).

I just loosen the nut with the bike on the ground
Put the bike up on axel stand
Gradually turn the adjustment nut half a turn at a time, alternating between the left and right side. (make sure you do the same adjustment on each side and the wheel should remain aligned properly)
Drop the bike back down
Tighten axel nut with torque wrench
Check alignment using the indicators on swingarm (not accurate on my bike) and with the string/wood methods outlined above.

Hope this helps.

[Glade]

Oh and my manual says adjust the chain as required, oil every 600 miles.

In practice I adjust the chain rarely, but oil every time i wash the bike, which is usually fortnightly.

[Kernel]

Or to save the hassle of oiling and tightening so often, you could always get a Scottoiler fitted.
Buelligan 984 - What do you mean about the tight spot?

[Benni]

Hi Kernel & two-wheeled PHers !

Tight Spot ?
Put a bike on the stand, so that the real wheel can be turned freely,
then turn the wheel and watch the tightness of the chain.
You will notice that the chain is not evenly tight in all places,
but has "more loose" and "more tight" sections.
This is caused by chain manufacturing tolerances and driving style.
The chain should be adjusted when it is at the "tightest spot",
when the slack is at the minimum.
When this is not done, the chain will be too tight,
wich will a) cause more rapid chain & sprocket wear,
b) can affect the handling because the rear suspension cannot work freely,
and c) can cause more load and wear to the transmission output shaft bearing,
on the inside of the case next to the sprocket.
Chain tension should be checked after adjustment when the rider is sitting on the bike,
as the tightness will be more compared to the bike on the stand,
because sprocket shaft and swing arm axle are in different "planes of geometry"(voc?).
(Unless you ride some of the Bimotas)
Hope that helps,
Benni

[Buelligan 984]

Thanks for the clear explanation Benni - better than I could have done.

In theory, the specified slack given in the manual should take account of the sag when the rider gets on the bike, so that the adjustment will be "correct" with the rider aboard (assuming the rear suspension etc is set up correctly for the weight of the rider).

Scotoilers are a good idea - worth the money when you look at the price of a decent chain and sprocket set.

Of course, I have a rubber band rather than a chain, so no adjustment or lubrication required and no chain lube on the rear wheel (but I'm completely snookered when the thing snaps). If you have chain drive, stick a spare split link in the tool kit just a "get you home" repair if the chain breaks.

Dave