SAGARIS CLUTCH
Discussion
What is the generally expected life of a Sagaris clutch? I am looking at a car with 15k miles on its original clutch and am wondering if it will soon be wearing out as I have heard of cars having new a new clutch at 10k. Obviously style of driving plays a part but I would be interested to hear from any 15k + Sagaris owners.
It really depends on the type of trips and I suppose the driver's clutch sympathy.
Lots of long trips on A roads and motorway will see a clutch last a long time. Standing starts is another matter.
You are more likely to experience the Master/Slave cylinder seal leak which also needs the 'box and clutch off as had happened to mine last November after 22K. The clutch was fine but I replaced it anyway to save having the 'box and clutch off again.
Lots of long trips on A roads and motorway will see a clutch last a long time. Standing starts is another matter.
You are more likely to experience the Master/Slave cylinder seal leak which also needs the 'box and clutch off as had happened to mine last November after 22K. The clutch was fine but I replaced it anyway to save having the 'box and clutch off again.
As Rob says, mine was done at 19500 miles. The box was perfectly usable still in that condition, but reverse was a pain in the arse getting to, the clutch was a bit heavy and you got the occasional snatch on 3rd. I would say you could probably have pushed that to 22k miles or so. I would take 20k miles as the cut off point though and factor it into your price.
sportie said:
First clutch replaced at 2K second one at 10K but not with the TVR crap but with a modified one from TVR Carparts. Much better now and so dont expect any more trouble.
Thats interesting - one of the cars I viewed at a dealer with sub 10k miles was on its second clutch. According to the dealer the problem was'nt due to the plates actually wearing out but with the clutch dragging (whatever this actually means!!??). It seems odd that some cars have experienced this when others have run for 20k miles with no problem?sportie said:
First clutch replaced at 2K second one at 10K but not with the TVR crap but with a modified one from TVR Carparts. Much better now and so dont expect any more trouble.
Sprotie, I'm not sure, but I think you're being fairly economical with the facts. Forgive me if I have the wrong car, but....... how much of the first clutch failure was down to lanch and traction control not being correctly set up?? Again, if I have the right car/person combination, you also forget to advise the car is used for competition. 
To add some balance I have 8000 miles so far on my standard and original Sagaris clutch. 14 hillclimb and sprint events on soft rubber and around 8 or 9 track days. Not bad for a "crap clutch"
Funny enough, I had a phone call from the dealer on Monday saying that the clutch in the Sag I'm buying needs replacing adding a day's delay to deliver.
It's done 10K miles and they said that it was dragging - not the first they've seen either.
Edited to say I don't mind the day's delay for the sake of a new clutch!
It's done 10K miles and they said that it was dragging - not the first they've seen either.
Edited to say I don't mind the day's delay for the sake of a new clutch!
Edited by fairclp on Wednesday 27th June 10:34
fairclp said:
Funny enough, I had a phone call from the dealer on Monday saying that the clutch in the Sag I'm buying needs replacing adding a day's delay to deliver.
It's done 10K miles and they said that it was dragging - not the first they've seen either.
If a clutch is not correctly aligned, or set up properly it will be a problem. Does not mean it's a crap clutch.It's done 10K miles and they said that it was dragging - not the first they've seen either.
Edited by Daftlad on Wednesday 27th June 09:29
Maxx-Waxx said:
Daftlad said:
If a clutch is not correctly aligned, or set up properly it will be a problem.
John whats the correct set up then?Edited by Daftlad on Wednesday 27th June 09:29
Some cars run with insufficient clearance between plates that causes drag, resulting in difficult gear change - that is often fobbed off under the guise of TADTS, and of course resulting premature wear. I am advsied by a trusted source, that clearance is adjustable (again, I have no specific details of how this is performed)
I do not know what the correct clearance is either (pretty poor I know
). A good dealer, Independant, or AP should be able to advise. I pick up my Sagaris (buying privately) this weekend and it has 14k on the clock with original clutch. I have factored £1500 into what I am paying for it on the assumption that a clutch will be needed sooner rather than later although there is no sign of a problem at this stage. Time will tell!!! (P.S. Extremely excited about getting it, can't wait!!).
Ah ha, well spotted!! I did'nt 'gamble' £35k but a bit less than that on the car I am going for. The deal is taking place this weekend and I don't want to tempt fate by counting my chickens before they hatch but I was very pleased with the car when I viewed last weekend. As always there is an element of risk with a private sale but price reflects that. The car is not currently advertised anywhere but its a red glow pearl 05 car (from Castle originally) and I can't wait to collect!!! I will post a more expansive report next week.
No.22 on register!
No.22 on register!
Edited by TGJR on Wednesday 27th June 16:27
Don't bother replacing the clutch with the standard TVR/AP model. The same unit is used on the Tuscan and 15-20k is the typical life span. Either the slave clinder seals blow or the diaphram spring fingers fatigue and break off.
Replace it with the Raceproved version available via Clever Trevor. It costs the same and is a much more durable and better engineered unit.
Replace it with the Raceproved version available via Clever Trevor. It costs the same and is a much more durable and better engineered unit.
Edited by dvs_dave on Sunday 1st July 22:45
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