What do people think??
Discussion
Right a question about a Noble on this forum for a change.
This winter i am thinking about upgrading the engine, I cant afford the rousch engine(circa £13k) also think this is a tad expensive(no offence to people who have had it done) So my options are either :
1) Buy a M400 spec engine from AER in the states, and ship it over, along with some uprated valve springs and seats. Get it nut and bolted over here and then have it mapped.
2) Have my engine rebuilt with uprated pistons etc by a respected engine builder in the Uk (Like Owen did.)
In both cases I will have the turbos refurbed at the same time (and maybe have roller bearings installed.)
Engine in and out will be done at home, gearbox will be shotpeened etc while out of the car.
Any other options i should consider?
Jobs worth doing while the car is engine-less?
I am not looking for silly power, would be happy with around 450bhp/430ft/lbs
This winter i am thinking about upgrading the engine, I cant afford the rousch engine(circa £13k) also think this is a tad expensive(no offence to people who have had it done) So my options are either :
1) Buy a M400 spec engine from AER in the states, and ship it over, along with some uprated valve springs and seats. Get it nut and bolted over here and then have it mapped.
2) Have my engine rebuilt with uprated pistons etc by a respected engine builder in the Uk (Like Owen did.)
In both cases I will have the turbos refurbed at the same time (and maybe have roller bearings installed.)
Engine in and out will be done at home, gearbox will be shotpeened etc while out of the car.
Any other options i should consider?
Jobs worth doing while the car is engine-less?
I am not looking for silly power, would be happy with around 450bhp/430ft/lbs
To be honest, you really need to take your engine apart a bit before you'll know which way to go. My old 3R engine didn't use much oil, sounded fine and drove fine, but when it was stripped to build the Roush version we found the bores were totally shot, and one of the mains wasn't great.
@ £275 per liner to fix it doesn't take many of them before getting a new block is best....
@ £275 per liner to fix it doesn't take many of them before getting a new block is best....
Although I'm yet to map/power test properly, my re-build (with internals machined to a tighter spec than standard), custom exhaust, boost control, cooling mods and some initial lightening (dymags and stereo remove) is showing some great results.
I was over the moon with the car at Elvington - the first and only time I've had to give it a proper go. The old girl was absolutely flying...which i'm sure Justin will verify !, we were going very well until I had a talent failure!
Can't confirm what power I'm running yet but I would guess at about 380/400ish. I'm not going to chase any more as having seen what a difference changing to dymags made I'm well and truly converted to getting the weight out ! .... Carbon Fibre seats next
I was over the moon with the car at Elvington - the first and only time I've had to give it a proper go. The old girl was absolutely flying...which i'm sure Justin will verify !, we were going very well until I had a talent failure!
Can't confirm what power I'm running yet but I would guess at about 380/400ish. I'm not going to chase any more as having seen what a difference changing to dymags made I'm well and truly converted to getting the weight out ! .... Carbon Fibre seats next

personally i would have gone with option one myself if time had not been a factor to me. you have the benefit of a second decent lump to sell or rebuild as a spare. Dont honestly think roller bearing turbos would be needed, but if you have the funds, why not
I also think the Roush route is expensive but they have a reputation thats very good, and that can be a godsend.
I also think the Roush route is expensive but they have a reputation thats very good, and that can be a godsend.obes said:
Although I'm yet to map/power test properly, my re-build (with internals machined to a tighter spec than standard), custom exhaust, boost control, cooling mods and some initial lightening (dymags and stereo remove) is showing some great results.
I was over the moon with the car at Elvington - the first and only time I've had to give it a proper go. The old girl was absolutely flying...which i'm sure Justin will verify !, we were going very well until I had a talent failure!
Can't confirm what power I'm running yet but I would guess at about 380/400ish. I'm not going to chase any more as having seen what a difference changing to dymags made I'm well and truly converted to getting the weight out ! .... Carbon Fibre seats next
Owen,did you lighten your flywheel?I was over the moon with the car at Elvington - the first and only time I've had to give it a proper go. The old girl was absolutely flying...which i'm sure Justin will verify !, we were going very well until I had a talent failure!
Can't confirm what power I'm running yet but I would guess at about 380/400ish. I'm not going to chase any more as having seen what a difference changing to dymags made I'm well and truly converted to getting the weight out ! .... Carbon Fibre seats next

I am not really going to use mine on track, so am keen to keep all the creature comforts inside. The best way for me to cut down the weight is to get on a diet and go to the gym!! Got a good 10kg's to save there!!
ajg31 said:
personally i would have gone with option one myself if time had not been a factor to me. you have the benefit of a second decent lump to sell or rebuild as a spare. Dont honestly think roller bearing turbos would be needed, but if you have the funds, why not
I also think the Roush route is expensive but they have a reputation thats very good, and that can be a godsend.
Indeed, however, their engine has no warrenty, although I think they would honour any problems with it, but there is nothing in writing.
I also think the Roush route is expensive but they have a reputation thats very good, and that can be a godsend.But the US engine(with current exchange rates) including shipping, vat and duty, plus a set of uprated springs and valve seats and a Nut and bolt on the engine once it is here, comes in at well under half the cost .
If money was not a factor I would go with the roush engine, as it saves hassle and time, but as I dont have the money, but will have the time, that is why I am going the other route.
On an interesting note, the US spec engines have oil squirters for the pistons, which the UK engines dont have.
alex s said:
Right a question about a Noble on this forum for a change.
This winter i am thinking about upgrading the engine, I cant afford the rousch engine(circa £13k) also think this is a tad expensive(no offence to people who have had it done) So my options are either :
1) Buy a M400 spec engine from AER in the states, and ship it over, along with some uprated valve springs and seats. Get it nut and bolted over here and then have it mapped.
2) Have my engine rebuilt with uprated pistons etc by a respected engine builder in the Uk (Like Owen did.)
In both cases I will have the turbos refurbed at the same time (and maybe have roller bearings installed.)
Engine in and out will be done at home, gearbox will be shotpeened etc while out of the car.
Any other options i should consider?
Jobs worth doing while the car is engine-less?
I am not looking for silly power, would be happy with around 450bhp/430ft/lbs
The best option is to see what you have got to work with when the engine is out.This winter i am thinking about upgrading the engine, I cant afford the rousch engine(circa £13k) also think this is a tad expensive(no offence to people who have had it done) So my options are either :
1) Buy a M400 spec engine from AER in the states, and ship it over, along with some uprated valve springs and seats. Get it nut and bolted over here and then have it mapped.
2) Have my engine rebuilt with uprated pistons etc by a respected engine builder in the Uk (Like Owen did.)
In both cases I will have the turbos refurbed at the same time (and maybe have roller bearings installed.)
Engine in and out will be done at home, gearbox will be shotpeened etc while out of the car.
Any other options i should consider?
Jobs worth doing while the car is engine-less?
I am not looking for silly power, would be happy with around 450bhp/430ft/lbs
Have the heads gas flowed (forced induction motors don't normally need this but the Mondeo heads are truly asthmatic).
Use stronger valve springs as opposed to lighter (unless you intend to raise the rev ceiling substantially)
Talk to a duratec expert about getting your cams re-profiled.
Lightened and balanced crank / flywheel.
Forged pistons.
re-build turbos / up-rate to M400 spec.
Get a set of light wheels.
I've fitted c/f rim Dymags in June and have started to see the benefits already
.Also worth having the geometry set up (machined uprights for camber adjustment).
If you do the work yourself you will save thousands. (it is a ford lump after all).
IMO
F.C.
Alex, there's no substitute for cubes, if your considering importing an engine then why not the 3.5 litre Duratec? Im not shure how much tweaking things like exhaust,plenum and bellhousing will need but its got to be an option worth considering, also you can implement the variable cam timing with the mbe (with a bit of help)
Im told it's a much better engine than the 3 litre.
Im told it's a much better engine than the 3 litre.
NickyTwoHats said:
You have the 6 speed - right?.
I do indeed, with the LSD and the M400 linkage 
NickyTwoHats said:
Talk to Trevor nicely - he'll give you 450 with no need for a new engine.
How??Trevor has done quite a bit of work on my car, reset the cam timing, remap...to 390BHP, said anymore power would need extensive work...
Cant run more boost due to the valve float issue...
But this was over a 18 months ago so has he come up with something new??
Edited by alex s on Wednesday 4th July 22:21
Adrian W said:
Alex, there's no substitute for cubes, if your considering importing an engine then why not the 3.5 litre Duratec? Im not shure how much tweaking things like exhaust,plenum and bellhousing will need but its got to be an option worth considering, also you can implement the variable cam timing with the mbe (with a bit of help)
Im told it's a much better engine than the 3 litre.
After we chatted about this the other week, I had a look on the net but couldnt find anyone selling it as a crate engine.Im told it's a much better engine than the 3 litre.
Any links??
Is it the same size/mounts/bellhousing etc, otherwise i can see it gettig expensive(which i am trying to avoid) who could do the mapping for the Variable cam timing...trevor?
The American engine runs a higher compression ratio - so be careful what you end up buying
i tried to get one with a lower CR but they wouldn't do it
so you would have to take the engine apart and replace the pistons
also the engine would have to be taken apart to change the valve springs
which kind of makes nonsence of buying a new engine !!
my advice is to go for a new set of forged pistons - (a set from an M400 would do) go for a larger set of turbo's and a proper aftermaket ecu and get the gearbox refurbed whilst the engine is out.
i tried to get one with a lower CR but they wouldn't do it
so you would have to take the engine apart and replace the pistons
also the engine would have to be taken apart to change the valve springs
which kind of makes nonsence of buying a new engine !!
my advice is to go for a new set of forged pistons - (a set from an M400 would do) go for a larger set of turbo's and a proper aftermaket ecu and get the gearbox refurbed whilst the engine is out.
D_G said:
Hi Alex,
Looking at the technical spec, a crate engine would have too high a compression ratio for forced induction, so modification would be required.
Not sure whats available to do this, but does sound tempting though..
Dave
The crate engine I would be getting would be the one AER do for the Noble(and all the US nobles use), with a lower compression ratio.Looking at the technical spec, a crate engine would have too high a compression ratio for forced induction, so modification would be required.
Not sure whats available to do this, but does sound tempting though..
Dave
Unless you are talking about the 3.5 in which case..thanks.

gadgeroonie said:
The American engine runs a higher compression ratio - so be careful what you end up buying
i tried to get one with a lower CR but they wouldn't do it
so you would have to take the engine apart and replace the pistons
also the engine would have to be taken apart to change the valve springs
which kind of makes nonsence of buying a new engine !!
my advice is to go for a new set of forged pistons - (a set from an M400 would do) go for a larger set of turbo's and a proper aftermaket ecu and get the gearbox refurbed whilst the engine is out.
Turbos are fine, Prefer the less laggy t25's and they will easily flow enough for the 450 i am after(why waste £1.5K on turbos when mine are up to the job). Valve springs can be done with the heads in place.i tried to get one with a lower CR but they wouldn't do it
so you would have to take the engine apart and replace the pistons
also the engine would have to be taken apart to change the valve springs
which kind of makes nonsence of buying a new engine !!
my advice is to go for a new set of forged pistons - (a set from an M400 would do) go for a larger set of turbo's and a proper aftermaket ecu and get the gearbox refurbed whilst the engine is out.
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