Discussion
Hey guys,
Bought a 944 S2 about 6 weeks ago, and I've been having a couple of problems with it. Now, I'm no expert with these cars, so I'm hoping someone can help me out.
First problem is a leak coming from the plastic near the top right corner of the windscreen. The seals look ok, but the paintwork is slightly cracked/rusty on the outside in this area, so I'm not 100% sure what is causing the leak or how to sort it.
Second problem is the way the car runs when it hasn't been started for a couple of days. When it's running fine, it idles at exactly 1,000rpm and sounds perfect. When it hasn't been used for a couple of days, it idles at around 800rpm and sounds very rough. Now when I've taken the car out for a run when it's been running poorly, the car sounds very rough and runs jerky up to 3,000rpm, at which point it runs very smoothly from 3,000rpm upwards.
Any idea on what these problems are, and how to fix them?
Thanks in advance.
Bought a 944 S2 about 6 weeks ago, and I've been having a couple of problems with it. Now, I'm no expert with these cars, so I'm hoping someone can help me out.
First problem is a leak coming from the plastic near the top right corner of the windscreen. The seals look ok, but the paintwork is slightly cracked/rusty on the outside in this area, so I'm not 100% sure what is causing the leak or how to sort it.
Second problem is the way the car runs when it hasn't been started for a couple of days. When it's running fine, it idles at exactly 1,000rpm and sounds perfect. When it hasn't been used for a couple of days, it idles at around 800rpm and sounds very rough. Now when I've taken the car out for a run when it's been running poorly, the car sounds very rough and runs jerky up to 3,000rpm, at which point it runs very smoothly from 3,000rpm upwards.
Any idea on what these problems are, and how to fix them?
Thanks in advance.
Ant84 said:
Second problem is the way the car runs when it hasn't been started for a couple of days. When it's running fine, it idles at exactly 1,000rpm and sounds perfect. When it hasn't been used for a couple of days, it idles at around 800rpm and sounds very rough. Now when I've taken the car out for a run when it's been running poorly, the car sounds very rough and runs jerky up to 3,000rpm, at which point it runs very smoothly from 3,000rpm upwards.
I guess you have checked all the obvious things like air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs etc.Leak: If you have grotty bosywork in that area, I'd guess you have had a replacement windscreen fitted at some time which has been done badly. It will need tidying up - ideally the windscreen needs to be removed and the metalwork cleaned and repainted, and then the windscreen refitted.
Rough running: On some cars I'd say this sounds like a problem with the vacuum advance on the idle, but I'm not sure if the S2 has such a thing (I suspect not.) Check condition of plugs/rotor arm/cap/leads etc etc etc and replace if in doubt. Then ask again if it is still a problem.
Oli.
Rough running: On some cars I'd say this sounds like a problem with the vacuum advance on the idle, but I'm not sure if the S2 has such a thing (I suspect not.) Check condition of plugs/rotor arm/cap/leads etc etc etc and replace if in doubt. Then ask again if it is still a problem.
Oli.
Also worth checking that your sunroof drain holes are not partially blocked or that the drain tube has not come off. It may be the water is draining into the bodywork and running through/rusting. You will need to pour a little water down each one and check you get 4 puddles ;-) I think the front ones drain near the engine bay first.
Hopefully someone else can confirm exactly.
With rough running, it maybe battery is a bit low and needs a conditioner hence rough until alternator charges it up. (you can probably check the volts on the batt after a few days as opposed to after a long run to confirm). May also imply that there is something draining it whilst left standing. On mine I had an aftermarket alarm but the original wasn't fully removed so would often get a low batt after a few days.
Could be DME relay has some problems and when warm solder joints have expanded to make better connection? For sake of £18 its worth having a spare anyway. 10 secs to swap and try but you do then have to let the car idle for 10 mins before driving.
Otherwise as the other suggestions above.
Hopefully someone else can confirm exactly.
With rough running, it maybe battery is a bit low and needs a conditioner hence rough until alternator charges it up. (you can probably check the volts on the batt after a few days as opposed to after a long run to confirm). May also imply that there is something draining it whilst left standing. On mine I had an aftermarket alarm but the original wasn't fully removed so would often get a low batt after a few days.
Could be DME relay has some problems and when warm solder joints have expanded to make better connection? For sake of £18 its worth having a spare anyway. 10 secs to swap and try but you do then have to let the car idle for 10 mins before driving.
Otherwise as the other suggestions above.
matsleight said:
Also worth checking that your sunroof drain holes are not partially blocked or that the drain tube has not come off. It may be the water is draining into the bodywork and running through/rusting. You will need to pour a little water down each one and check you get 4 puddles ;-) I think the front ones drain near the engine bay first.
Hopefully someone else can confirm exactly.
With rough running, it maybe battery is a bit low and needs a conditioner hence rough until alternator charges it up. (you can probably check the volts on the batt after a few days as opposed to after a long run to confirm). May also imply that there is something draining it whilst left standing. On mine I had an aftermarket alarm but the original wasn't fully removed so would often get a low batt after a few days.
Could be DME relay has some problems and when warm solder joints have expanded to make better connection? For sake of £18 its worth having a spare anyway. 10 secs to swap and try but you do then have to let the car idle for 10 mins before driving.
Otherwise as the other suggestions above.
Forgive my ignorance, but what does the DME relay actually do?Hopefully someone else can confirm exactly.
With rough running, it maybe battery is a bit low and needs a conditioner hence rough until alternator charges it up. (you can probably check the volts on the batt after a few days as opposed to after a long run to confirm). May also imply that there is something draining it whilst left standing. On mine I had an aftermarket alarm but the original wasn't fully removed so would often get a low batt after a few days.
Could be DME relay has some problems and when warm solder joints have expanded to make better connection? For sake of £18 its worth having a spare anyway. 10 secs to swap and try but you do then have to let the car idle for 10 mins before driving.
Otherwise as the other suggestions above.
I'll let a better men than me explain ;-)
http://frwilk.com/944dme/
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/fuel-05.pd...
http://frwilk.com/944dme/
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/fuel-05.pd...
Its not the DME relay, they tend to either work or not work, and not to cause occasional dodgy running. Basically the DME relay is the fuel pump relay. Information is fed to the DME (the CPU or 'chip') and the DME sends a signal to the relay to activate the fuel pump.
It also has a secondary circuit to operate something else completely different, cant remember what it is, cos it's something not fitted to my car.
Step 1 for your running problems, when was it last serviced? If it's been a while, change the spark plugs & rotor arm/dizzy cap. The fault is lying very much in the arena of 'electrical'
Widnscreens can leak, and so can rubber seals, sunroof drain pipes. The trick is this.. and simply this.....
On a dry day, sit in the car and have a mate shoot a hosepipe at specific areas for a decent period of time, 10 mins at least. Check for leaks... dry the car off or wait a bit, then aim at the next suspect point. Elimination's what ya neeeeeed.
It also has a secondary circuit to operate something else completely different, cant remember what it is, cos it's something not fitted to my car.
Step 1 for your running problems, when was it last serviced? If it's been a while, change the spark plugs & rotor arm/dizzy cap. The fault is lying very much in the arena of 'electrical'
Widnscreens can leak, and so can rubber seals, sunroof drain pipes. The trick is this.. and simply this.....
On a dry day, sit in the car and have a mate shoot a hosepipe at specific areas for a decent period of time, 10 mins at least. Check for leaks... dry the car off or wait a bit, then aim at the next suspect point. Elimination's what ya neeeeeed.
Conian said:
Step 1 for your running problems, when was it last serviced? If it's been a while, change the spark plugs & rotor arm/dizzy cap. The fault is lying very much in the arena of 'electrical'
.
On my S2 with fresh plugs cap and rotor one can adjust the CO at idle anywhere between about 1% and 4% and still always get smooth as silk running (OK maybe some rough spots but better for example then my Saab 9-5 daily driver). It was the same too when the fuel pressure regulator went south..
Between 1% and 3% it is almost impossible to tell the state of tune by driving around at anything less the 10/10ths. Basically like he said rough running almost certainly electrical unless the fuel pump and or injectors are shot or one of the cylinders is dead (blown valve / piston) or some other very serious mechanical fault in the motor. Actually thats quite a lot of other things so I will shut up
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