Discussion
I am finally back in the UK and able to use the TVR again when the summer arrives. Has been dry stored for 9 months and flew straight through the MOT with no faults - brilliant! My concern now is the rust on the chassis. It is not terminal but it is there and I really do not wish to go down the £3000 replacement route! Can anybody suggest the best way to treat this - I assume stripping back and then wax oil? Where can you pick up the treatment from? Looking forward to joining all the other 'S' owners' back on the road!
Halfords seem to do a fair range of treatments for that sort of stuff, various paints and what have you, some including waxoyl in them.
I'm just a novice at this stuff anyway but I'm sure someone will be along shortly and give you a name of a descent product to use. I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread as I will be doing mine in the winter.
Catz
I'm just a novice at this stuff anyway but I'm sure someone will be along shortly and give you a name of a descent product to use. I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread as I will be doing mine in the winter.
Catz
Best thing to do is put her up on ramps and give the underside a good once over with a wire brush. Then once you've got rid of as much of the loose stuff as you can, ither Hammerite, (red tends to look good), or POR 15 (http://www.holden.co.uk/ stock it).
Give it a gd coat, or two if you have the time, then waxoyl if you feel the need. I've not got around to waxoyling either of mine, (Hammerite's been fine), but probably worth the extra time and hassle to do this..
Give it a gd coat, or two if you have the time, then waxoyl if you feel the need. I've not got around to waxoyling either of mine, (Hammerite's been fine), but probably worth the extra time and hassle to do this..
Just finished doing the outriggers and trailing arms on mine, see my website for May and June for pics etc. Further back (24 April) you'll see how I made 2 tools, one for scraping and one for painting.
In summary, I removed the old coating (part Hammerite, part original plastic) and most of the surface rust with a wire brush in an angle grinder, and a selection of paint scrapers and a hooky thing to reach the tops of the tubes.
Then 2 coats of red Hammerite applied by brush and paint pad.
Then spray on some warmed-up (ie thinner) Waxoyl.
All the stuff you need, including the Waxoyl and sprayer, is available from Halfords and lots of other motor stores. I would reckon the costs were:
2.5 litres Hammerite - about £8
Hammerite thinners - about £7
Pressure tin of Waxoyl - about £14
Waxoyl sprayer - about £13
The rest of the stuff, scrapers, paint brushes etc, I had already.
The sprayer is fine if you warm the waxoyl tin first in a bucket of hot water. The extension probe, for spraying inside box sections is, in my experience, pish.
It's a messy job though - first getting covered in granulated Hammerite and rust, then trying to get fresh Hammerite off your skin, then trying to wash of Waxoyl (which is, by definition, waterproof). Wear clothes that you don't ever want to wear again!
In summary, I removed the old coating (part Hammerite, part original plastic) and most of the surface rust with a wire brush in an angle grinder, and a selection of paint scrapers and a hooky thing to reach the tops of the tubes.
Then 2 coats of red Hammerite applied by brush and paint pad.
Then spray on some warmed-up (ie thinner) Waxoyl.
All the stuff you need, including the Waxoyl and sprayer, is available from Halfords and lots of other motor stores. I would reckon the costs were:
2.5 litres Hammerite - about £8
Hammerite thinners - about £7
Pressure tin of Waxoyl - about £14
Waxoyl sprayer - about £13
The rest of the stuff, scrapers, paint brushes etc, I had already.
The sprayer is fine if you warm the waxoyl tin first in a bucket of hot water. The extension probe, for spraying inside box sections is, in my experience, pish.
It's a messy job though - first getting covered in granulated Hammerite and rust, then trying to get fresh Hammerite off your skin, then trying to wash of Waxoyl (which is, by definition, waterproof). Wear clothes that you don't ever want to wear again!
can recommend por 15. coated mine in the stuff when i had the body off (after sandblasting)
prep with por metal ready first, etches and zinc primes it
two coats of por 15 paint, this stuff seems to 'soak' into the metal
then tie coat primer
then i did some bright red lorry paint on top (por isnt u.v. stable)
all available from frost.
five years on and not a sign of rust coming back. bit more work but worth it.
oh and wear a particulate resperator with this stuff, one wiff and it'll kill your lungs.
on that happy note, hope this helps
prep with por metal ready first, etches and zinc primes it
two coats of por 15 paint, this stuff seems to 'soak' into the metal
then tie coat primer
then i did some bright red lorry paint on top (por isnt u.v. stable)
all available from frost.
five years on and not a sign of rust coming back. bit more work but worth it.
oh and wear a particulate resperator with this stuff, one wiff and it'll kill your lungs.
on that happy note, hope this helps
nigel99 said:
don't forget to do the trailing arms, they can rust out and are hard to get now, especially for the s1 as i found out to my cost!
tvrgit said:
Just finished doing the outriggers and trailing arms on mine, see my website for May and June for pics etc.
I didn't! In fact it was a rotten trailing arm that started me on the whole process.Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff