v8 clutch problem, any ideas?
Discussion
bought a 350i, with master the cyinder seized all the way out,
replaced it and pipe,
bled it and the slave cylinder went bang as the rod went over the arm inside the housing,
fixed it, put it back in place, and it drove for 30 miles,
then it started getting a bit hard to get into low gears,
made it home, stripped the slave off, and found the arm inside to be all the way in, hard against the inside case, as though the clutch was fully activated in the on position, but it does not go into gear.???
seems a bit odd as the clutch was not slipping and no judder was present, and it does not go into gear, anybody had this happen?
have been on the v8 rover site and it is unheard of,
called two clutch centres and they say te same.
any ideas?
cheers
Daz.
replaced it and pipe,
bled it and the slave cylinder went bang as the rod went over the arm inside the housing,
fixed it, put it back in place, and it drove for 30 miles,
then it started getting a bit hard to get into low gears,
made it home, stripped the slave off, and found the arm inside to be all the way in, hard against the inside case, as though the clutch was fully activated in the on position, but it does not go into gear.???
seems a bit odd as the clutch was not slipping and no judder was present, and it does not go into gear, anybody had this happen?
have been on the v8 rover site and it is unheard of,
called two clutch centres and they say te same.
any ideas?
cheers
Daz.
I had a problem with the clutch release lever, and had the same symptoms as you are having. My source of the problem (after overhauling the full hydraulic system): The pivot had pierced the lever completely!
Tip given to me was to have a look in the bellhousing: there is a dust cover at the bottom that you can remove, and with a torch I had a look inside and discovered the root cause. Replaced the lever in situ, by making a hole at the bottom of the bellhousing (and covered it later with a plate). The hole is also handy now to re-attach the pushrod if necessary.
Rob
Tip given to me was to have a look in the bellhousing: there is a dust cover at the bottom that you can remove, and with a torch I had a look inside and discovered the root cause. Replaced the lever in situ, by making a hole at the bottom of the bellhousing (and covered it later with a plate). The hole is also handy now to re-attach the pushrod if necessary.
Rob
this might of been self inflicted by me, as I did not know hot to reattach the pastic part to the release lever, so put it back together without attaching it, but I still do not understand why the lever would be stuck in the full thrust/on position,
how did you/and where did you make the hole?
sounds like a cheaper way of doing it than the £300 quoted me so far.
cheers.
how did you/and where did you make the hole?
sounds like a cheaper way of doing it than the £300 quoted me so far.
cheers.
Normally the diaphragm spring of the clutch should push the release bearing back, and with it the lever.
Three things possible:
1. Lever disconnected from the pivot
2. Lever not ok (pivot piercing, or lever bent)
3. Lever disconnected from the release bearing, but think that there is not enough room for this to happen without situation 1.
The hole I made is square at the bottom of the bellhousing. Idea came when I saw a picture of a T5 gearbox, they have an inspection hole. Bellhousing is alloy so it is not to difficult (drill a hole, and find hacksaw - used an electric one, and hole made in less than an hour). Hole is about 6 centimetre wide and 10 centimetres long and front to back of the wedge. Just have a look and avoid weakening the areas that hold bolds.
Keep in mind that making the hole itself and leaving it open, and cause damage to the clutch due to debris. And ruin the benifit of the 'quick and dirty' fix! Cleaning is important, but be carefull as the edges will be sharp.
Rob
Three things possible:
1. Lever disconnected from the pivot
2. Lever not ok (pivot piercing, or lever bent)
3. Lever disconnected from the release bearing, but think that there is not enough room for this to happen without situation 1.
The hole I made is square at the bottom of the bellhousing. Idea came when I saw a picture of a T5 gearbox, they have an inspection hole. Bellhousing is alloy so it is not to difficult (drill a hole, and find hacksaw - used an electric one, and hole made in less than an hour). Hole is about 6 centimetre wide and 10 centimetres long and front to back of the wedge. Just have a look and avoid weakening the areas that hold bolds.
Keep in mind that making the hole itself and leaving it open, and cause damage to the clutch due to debris. And ruin the benifit of the 'quick and dirty' fix! Cleaning is important, but be carefull as the edges will be sharp.
Rob
have cut a square hole in the bell housing, the arm has indeed fallen off with only minor damage to the thrust bearing,
i can get one hand inside, but cant seem to get the lever over the thrust bearing to reattach it to the pivot arm, via the flimsy sprung loaded clip on the back of the lever,
is it possible to get this arm back on with the housing still in place I wonder????
any ideas welcome.
i can get one hand inside, but cant seem to get the lever over the thrust bearing to reattach it to the pivot arm, via the flimsy sprung loaded clip on the back of the lever,
is it possible to get this arm back on with the housing still in place I wonder????
any ideas welcome.
Seems that you are getting there! Had the same experience, and had to replace the lever and the attachment to the bearing slider was different. So gave up after 4 hours of trying.... Next weekend, start fresh, have think and adjusted the two sliding blocks, and he presto done in next attempt (<10 minutes). The difficult part is that everything can move in any direction, so to slide the two small metal blocks in the bearing holder is THE thing to give you problems.
Step two was the pivot, as you found out. I unscrewed mine, held the lever in place and then put the pivot back by hand.
Hopefully you fixed it by now.
And don't forget to clean as much as possible, and close the hole! To avoid total clutch disaster.
Rob
Step two was the pivot, as you found out. I unscrewed mine, held the lever in place and then put the pivot back by hand.
Hopefully you fixed it by now.
And don't forget to clean as much as possible, and close the hole! To avoid total clutch disaster.
Rob
darrentomlinson said:
350zwelgje you are a diamond, the idea worked and saved me £350,
I owe you a drink at one of the tvr meets,
do you ever go to the one at meriden?
cheers all,
now onto the lights, leaks, stansion fault etc etc etc all part of the fun of owning one yeahhhh
here me coming now, (again)
Ehm, live in Belgium.... I owe you a drink at one of the tvr meets,
do you ever go to the one at meriden?
cheers all,
now onto the lights, leaks, stansion fault etc etc etc all part of the fun of owning one yeahhhh
here me coming now, (again)
But would be nice if we ever meet (is is a small world), either UK or Continent. Good of you to fix it, and can enjoy the raw wedgeness again. Keep those questions coming ;-). This forum is the place to be for wedges.
Rob
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