tvr lights, temp gauge , inlet oil leak

[darrentomlinson]

my tvr goes on with the problems, but is keeping me busy,
got 1 light that goes up and down most of the time, but some times does not go down and the motor gets very hot and is also getting lower into the body each time I use it, the other light goes down but not up, any ideas on this 1?
also got a leak from the inlet manifold bulk head side , replaced the rubbers but still leaking heavy, I suspect the top of each side leaking where the rubber finishes, any advice?
last is the stalk for main low beam and washer, it does not squirt the water, but i have fitted a seperate switch and it works? so the power is ok.
on the other stalk the dip and main are both on at the same time, in both dip and main positions.
along also with handbrake light on all the time,
last one is any idea on the temperature sender position on the engine, for the interior gauge?

Think I need a wiring diagram, anybody able to email one?
thanks in advance,
some great advice last night from belgium, off this site, saved me some £350.
great people on here.
Daz.

[darrentomlinson]

the leak is an oil leak, squirting on to the bulk head and on top of the inlet manifold,
note not injection, it is fitted with a webber

[jon haines]

i had the same problem with the lights on a tr7 i had many years ago.it turned out to be a bad earth and faulty connectors.i beleive tvr are same as tr7 so it might be worth a go.

[rev-erend]

It's possible the light pods are adjusted too high..

[TVRleigh]

Sounds like the rods are too long, as they would expain why they are going down too far.

I will be doing a full investigation of mine the weekend, so if you still have problems after the weekend let me know

Plese downloads the 2 wiring diagrams I have one full Tiff and the other from the bible as 600dpi PDF.

If I have voilated any copyright then I will remove, but the bible diagram says its from TVR engineering. and the other sent to me by darren.

400SE_wiring_diagram
V8_wedge_electrics

Edited by TVRleigh on Friday 13th July 12:29

[darrentomlinson]

CHEERS TVRLEIGH

[L33]

Darren, you wouldn't happen to have a silvery/blue 350i coupe, reg A***JLR?

L33

[darrentomlinson]

yes thats the one, the one from bristol,
you know the car?

[L33]

darrentomlinson said:

yes thats the one, the one from bristol,
you know the car?

Nah - I took my car for an MOT yesterday and they mentioned they had a Tasmin in a few days ago and they were having problems with headlights. I wondered who it belonged to and if there were on Pistonheads...

I have been using this MOT place for years and never had any problems with them.

Where in Birmingham are you? I'm in Great Barr...

Edited by L33 on Friday 13th July 14:47

[darrentomlinson]

small world, i used to school at the beacon,
I am in bearood,
so do you mot at the cape?

[L33]

darrentomlinson said:

small world, i used to school at the beacon,
I am in bearood,
so do you mot at the cape?

Bearood??? Bearwood?
I used to live at the bottom of city road as a student and started using Shireland autos way back then. I moved from the area nearly 6 years ago and I'm still using them.

I don't know if its any use as I have a 400se, but if you need to look at a wedge to see how things are meant to work on yours, please give me a shout.

[darrentomlinson]

keyboard playing up, spilt a drink on it, yep bearwood, i am on poplar road, behind the high street,
you any idea where the temperature sender is on the engine?
have you got time to meet up sunday for a quick drink and compare of electrics?

[TVRleigh]

Hi the temp sending should beat the front to the right, it should have a Green with blue stripe on it.

If you look at my progress pic's on what happening in your garage. the 1st progess pic clearly show's them one is black the other is brown, one is for the gauge and the other for the ECU, can't remember whick, but if you look at the wires on the conector, the one with the Green/blue wire is the one you want.

If not disconnect each one in turn and see what one drops the temp in the gauge. either that disconect and put in say a 170 ohm resister in the plug.

Also post a pic of your oil leak, as my give me more of an idea.

Edited by TVRleigh on Friday 13th July 15:44

[L33]

darrentomlinson said:

keyboard playing up, spilt a drink on it, yep bearwood, i am on poplar road, behind the high street,
you any idea where the temperature sender is on the engine?
have you got time to meet up sunday for a quick drink and compare of electrics?

I know Poplar road!
Coolant Temp sender is here:


and looks like this:


IIRC, black is for the ECU and brown for the gauge.
I have a spare (black) if you need one or LandRover dealers usually have them in stock.

I'm busy on Sunday but you'll more than likely find a load of other wedge nutters at the Bulls Head pub at Merriden near coventry between about 12:00 and 13:30. Good weather = good turnout, bad weather = poor turnout. Basically its the TVR car club monthly meeting load of TVRs there - not just wedges.

Linky here:
http://maps.yell.com/clients/browse.cgi?client=yel...

Edited by L33 on Friday 13th July 16:11

[darrentomlinson]

I have a weber with offenhauser manifold, so not in the same position,
it was working , I took off manifold to replace inlet gasket rubber ends, and now it does not work,
and still leaking grrrr

[TVRleigh]

It should not be too hard to find, it will look just like the one lee posted.
and have the colours I posted.

If you can take some pic's we may be able to help more.

Leigh

[dwgriffith]

With no EFI system there will not be any temp sensors as described fitted. The black one indicated is for the (not fitted) ECU and the brown one next to it is the thermotime switch, again not fitted to a carb engine. The temp gauge sensor will have a single wire spade connector, on the efi manifold it's on the offside front.

Edited by dwgriffith on Saturday 14th July 23:29

Edited by dwgriffith on Saturday 14th July 23:30

[darrentomlinson]

many thanks

[darrentomlinson]

tvrleigh, the oil leak is on the inlet maifold,bulk head side, have replaced the end rubbers, and still leaks,
it is also called the valley seal, coered the lot in instant gasket glue today and still leaking bad,
so not getting to the meridan meet Sunday,damn.

[adam quantrill]

The valley gasket has a sort of metal clamp and rear rubber seal, you could try taking the clamp off and getting the blue stuff right in there before replacing it. Also clean off all the old oil with petrol first so the blue sealant can stick properly.

The temp sensor above is for injection and won't be applicable to your case, you are looking for a single wire on a spade connector on the inlet manifold. It might be like the old Rover ones and coming out of a thing clamped down by a triangular piece of metal about 3cm across.