Discussion
why oh why does this happen? just got most the stuff I need done on my chim when it all goes pear shaped!
1) new dash put on May last year, just took it for a blatt, turned the lights on and the light buttons have disappeared into the recess and the new dash has come away from the steel.
2) headlight cover got a stone hit cracking the inside of the casing and needs replacing. The bible says its relatively simple, two screws and held in by mastic...easy or not?
3) think I might have a problem with one of the tappet lifters, anyone got experience of this?
Hope someone can help....cheers Roo
1) new dash put on May last year, just took it for a blatt, turned the lights on and the light buttons have disappeared into the recess and the new dash has come away from the steel.
2) headlight cover got a stone hit cracking the inside of the casing and needs replacing. The bible says its relatively simple, two screws and held in by mastic...easy or not?
3) think I might have a problem with one of the tappet lifters, anyone got experience of this?
Hope someone can help....cheers Roo
1) Can't be much, surely? Check the brackets behind the switches and make sure they're screwed in properly.
2) Dunno!
3) Depends how mechanical you are. I had exactly this, but knowing cams usually give up the ghost circa 40k miles and mine was at 39k, I went looking.
You can, as a start, get a stethoscope thingy (£5ish from RS) and listen to the rocker covers. I tracked mine down to No1 inlet. In fact I had a receipt in my service history, where a garage had investigated the valve gear on the left hand bank, no fault found.
A failed tappet is possible, but a worn cam is much more likely. As the lobe wears, it leaves a bloody great gap between the tappet and lobe. tick tick tick tick increasing with revs. Don't over look the fact that it could be just an exhaust gasket.
If you're confident to do so, you can remove the inlet manifold, valley gasket and rocker covers. Then remove the rocker shafts and push rods so you're down to bare tappets. You can then measure the lift on the tappet of each cam lobe to see what state they're in. They should be 10/11mm roughly. My two worn ones were down to 4mm and were round - not cam shaped. I was happy to change my cam, but if you're not, then you have to put it all back together again just so a garage can rip it all apart once more!
Hope this helps
Nick
2) Dunno!
3) Depends how mechanical you are. I had exactly this, but knowing cams usually give up the ghost circa 40k miles and mine was at 39k, I went looking.
You can, as a start, get a stethoscope thingy (£5ish from RS) and listen to the rocker covers. I tracked mine down to No1 inlet. In fact I had a receipt in my service history, where a garage had investigated the valve gear on the left hand bank, no fault found.
A failed tappet is possible, but a worn cam is much more likely. As the lobe wears, it leaves a bloody great gap between the tappet and lobe. tick tick tick tick increasing with revs. Don't over look the fact that it could be just an exhaust gasket.
If you're confident to do so, you can remove the inlet manifold, valley gasket and rocker covers. Then remove the rocker shafts and push rods so you're down to bare tappets. You can then measure the lift on the tappet of each cam lobe to see what state they're in. They should be 10/11mm roughly. My two worn ones were down to 4mm and were round - not cam shaped. I was happy to change my cam, but if you're not, then you have to put it all back together again just so a garage can rip it all apart once more!
Hope this helps

Nick
2) Just replaced a headlamp reflector so had my headlight pod out the other weekend.
Relatively straight forward to do, to wing nuts to undo and then you have to tug the thing off as the top part is stuck down with mastic. Doesn't want to shift so you have to give it a good tug to shift it. It feels like its bolted down its so tight so you have to be brave and pull the thing off !! Good chance to clean all the crap out of the headlamp lens too !!
Relatively straight forward to do, to wing nuts to undo and then you have to tug the thing off as the top part is stuck down with mastic. Doesn't want to shift so you have to give it a good tug to shift it. It feels like its bolted down its so tight so you have to be brave and pull the thing off !! Good chance to clean all the crap out of the headlamp lens too !!
Rooster said:
1) new dash put on May last year, just took it for a blatt, turned the lights on and the light buttons have disappeared into the recess and the new dash has come away from the steel.
Presume this is an early dash with 3 light switches in the radio panel? If so, I expect the brackets which hold the switch assembly to the panel have broken away. Pull out the radio, unscrew the 4 retaining screws and remove then re-glue the brackets. Not a pleasant job (see my other posts for details!)2) As Simon, says, it is straightforward. Took my headlamps apart to clean them last year. Seem to remember taking about 2 hours on the offside headlamp to remove, clean, replace and about 30 mins on the nearside.
As I'm left-handed, that may be reversed for you right-hookers.
I used ordinary B&Q black silicone to re-mastic the headlamps etc. Still ok about 7k miles later
3) Tappets or exhaust manifold blowing? The latter can sound just like noisy tappets. Manifolds can be re-welded.
As I'm left-handed, that may be reversed for you right-hookers.
I used ordinary B&Q black silicone to re-mastic the headlamps etc. Still ok about 7k miles later
3) Tappets or exhaust manifold blowing? The latter can sound just like noisy tappets. Manifolds can be re-welded.
thanks everyone, not sure I feel brave enough to change a cam but I would seriously like to have go at sorting it myself, I remember watching someone measuring the tappets on an old ford we used to have so I kinda know (in theory) how to do it.
The headlights are a worry, where do you undo the wing nuts? Im a bit concerned that when I pull it out it'll take a lot of the paint with it creating even more problems! Im probably being a wuss!
The headlights are a worry, where do you undo the wing nuts? Im a bit concerned that when I pull it out it'll take a lot of the paint with it creating even more problems! Im probably being a wuss!
You get access to the wingnuts either through the small inspection panels in the front wheel arches and/or through the grill opening. Be prepared to [panic if you think you've got your hands stuck (like I did!!).
The wingnuts were finger tight so undoing was no problem. Be prepared for some fiddling around when you drop them putting them back on!
You won't remove any paint - don't worry!
The wingnuts were finger tight so undoing was no problem. Be prepared for some fiddling around when you drop them putting them back on!
You won't remove any paint - don't worry!
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