Clutch problem or just old fluid?
Discussion
Hi all!
Was just about to go for a spin today in what seems like the only sunny day we're likely to get! The clutch pedal felt normal but I couldn't get into gear with the engine running. After quickly looking underneath for big pools of clutch fluid (there were none) I took the sealed cover off (genius design) and had a look at the clutch fluid level. There was none in the cylinder, so I added some - it only took a bit to refill to normal, so obviously the system was not completely dry.
I tried the car again, and now it will JUST ABOUT go into gear, but it is still a very hard process. Luckily it is driveable for the moment. SO... there is no evidence of a leak, and the fluid level is not decreasing. I should mention that the gearchange has been getting noticeably more difficult over the past month or so, especially when stationary.
I have no idea when the clutch fluid was last changed, but it can't have been recently. The car gets a regular service but to be honest it looks like they have never changed the fluid. So i'm thinking:
1. New clutch fluid?
2. Possible perishing of the pipes? (Not a usual Tvr problem - more Elise)
3. Something more expensive
I'm taking it in for a service next week, but any ideas / advice would be appreciated so I won't be caught out.
Cheers - hopefully some of you got to enjoy saturday's weather!
Was just about to go for a spin today in what seems like the only sunny day we're likely to get! The clutch pedal felt normal but I couldn't get into gear with the engine running. After quickly looking underneath for big pools of clutch fluid (there were none) I took the sealed cover off (genius design) and had a look at the clutch fluid level. There was none in the cylinder, so I added some - it only took a bit to refill to normal, so obviously the system was not completely dry.
I tried the car again, and now it will JUST ABOUT go into gear, but it is still a very hard process. Luckily it is driveable for the moment. SO... there is no evidence of a leak, and the fluid level is not decreasing. I should mention that the gearchange has been getting noticeably more difficult over the past month or so, especially when stationary.
I have no idea when the clutch fluid was last changed, but it can't have been recently. The car gets a regular service but to be honest it looks like they have never changed the fluid. So i'm thinking:
1. New clutch fluid?
2. Possible perishing of the pipes? (Not a usual Tvr problem - more Elise)
3. Something more expensive

I'm taking it in for a service next week, but any ideas / advice would be appreciated so I won't be caught out.
Cheers - hopefully some of you got to enjoy saturday's weather!
My previous chimaera did the same thing - turned out to be either a fauly master or slave cylinder (can't remember now - it was 7 years ago) it hadn't packed up completely but it was on it's way out.
When it finally did got I couldn't get it out of first and ended up getting a lift home from Mr RAC :-(
When it finally did got I couldn't get it out of first and ended up getting a lift home from Mr RAC :-(
Had the same thing 2 weeks ago - turned out to be the master cylinder leaking.
I decided to change the master cylinder (and slave whilst i was at it). Slave Cylinder was easy. Master Cylinder was a PITA.
First i thought i could just change the seals with it in the car - easy enough once i read how to remover the attachment to the clutch pedal and then remove the cirlip holding the piston in. Changed the seals - and OMG i could not get the circlip back in with only one hand and pliers. So i decided to change the whole cylinder - well it has been written before and be warned - the bolt that is under the cylinder is a pig to hold - i ended up fashining a tool to hold it whilst i undid the nut from inside the car - once done and re-fitted bleeding was simple and now works fantastically - it has been said before but do not start unless you know how to hold the bolt under the cylinder. If you can do that then it is simple. I think if i had the correct tool and not gone for changing the seals with it in the car i owuld have done the job in 2 hours max - however it took the weekend. Good luck.
I decided to change the master cylinder (and slave whilst i was at it). Slave Cylinder was easy. Master Cylinder was a PITA.
First i thought i could just change the seals with it in the car - easy enough once i read how to remover the attachment to the clutch pedal and then remove the cirlip holding the piston in. Changed the seals - and OMG i could not get the circlip back in with only one hand and pliers. So i decided to change the whole cylinder - well it has been written before and be warned - the bolt that is under the cylinder is a pig to hold - i ended up fashining a tool to hold it whilst i undid the nut from inside the car - once done and re-fitted bleeding was simple and now works fantastically - it has been said before but do not start unless you know how to hold the bolt under the cylinder. If you can do that then it is simple. I think if i had the correct tool and not gone for changing the seals with it in the car i owuld have done the job in 2 hours max - however it took the weekend. Good luck.
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