Fitting nose and tail badges
Discussion
Yes - easy job - WD40 the screw threads and undo the retaining nuts and remove.
Clean area behind and I use a thin leather template behind to cushion the badge and prevents damage through overtightening when re securing the badge to the bodywork.
Very satisfying to stand back and look at the new replacements - its surprising how much difference it does make actually.
Clean area behind and I use a thin leather template behind to cushion the badge and prevents damage through overtightening when re securing the badge to the bodywork.
Very satisfying to stand back and look at the new replacements - its surprising how much difference it does make actually.
If not using a socket set or box spanner, good plan to attach a length of string to the small spanner, you'll use to undo and re-tighted the one on the back. You are working through a hole accessing the two nuts and if you drop the spanner (or one of the nuts for that matter) they'll fall down between the two skins (layers) never to be retrieved (unless you turn the body upside down and shake hard)
Nick.
Nick.I got a new(ish) rear badge from a kindly gent on here but have so far not fitted it.
I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
I bought a replacement 'Chimaera' badge quite a while ago and when i went into the boot all set with socket set to undo the existing one, i found NO bolts to undo, could not bring myself to have to find a way of prizing existing badge off then having to drill holes in my P&J to fit new one.
Glyn.
Glyn.
Edited by The Hood on Monday 16th July 17:41
medieval said:
Yes - easy job - WD40 the screw threads and undo the retaining nuts and remove.
Clean area behind and I use a thin leather template behind to cushion the badge and prevents damage through overtightening when re securing the badge to the bodywork.
Very satisfying to stand back and look at the new replacements - its surprising how much difference it does make actually.
WD 40 is essential, make sure the holes are big enough to take the new badge including the seating where the bolt attaches to the badge.Clean area behind and I use a thin leather template behind to cushion the badge and prevents damage through overtightening when re securing the badge to the bodywork.
Very satisfying to stand back and look at the new replacements - its surprising how much difference it does make actually.
im said:
I got a new(ish) rear badge from a kindly gent on here but have so far not fitted it.
I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
Sounds like it could have been sealed with sikaflex or the like. I reckon the only thing to do is get a very sharp Stanley knife and very carefully cut the badge from the bodywork (if you've ever changed a headlight in the Chim, you should be well practised!). I wouldn't hammer the badge through as there's every change that you'll damage the surrounding paintwork...I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
Nuggs said:
im said:
I got a new(ish) rear badge from a kindly gent on here but have so far not fitted it.
I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
Sounds like it could have been sealed with sikaflex or the like. I reckon the only thing to do is get a very sharp Stanley knife and very carefully cut the badge from the bodywork (if you've ever changed a headlight in the Chim, you should be well practised!). I wouldn't hammer the badge through as there's every change that you'll damage the surrounding paintwork...I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
Again - many ta's.
im said:
I got a new(ish) rear badge from a kindly gent on here but have so far not fitted it.
I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
Hi Ian, try warming the badge with a hair drier (i'm sure you can borrow one I took off the 2 nuts inside the boot but the old badge wouldn't budge not even a cm! It feels stuck solid. I was going to hammer the 2 threads inside the boot to force the badge through and off but became concerned that as the badge came away from the bodywork it would take some of the surronding paintwork with it.
Any suggestions?
)If you have some form of sealant or double-sided tape (as i had) it will soften sufficiently for you to be able to "wobble" the badge about enough to get it loose.
Good luck mate
Thanks for all the advice, an hour and a half and mastick all over me and both front and read badges are on. Front wasnt too bad except where the drill slipped down the bonnet, most ot the scratch buffed out though =). The rear I couldnt get the bolts on so in the end its just stuck on, cant tell thjough it looks fine and the mastick wont come loose without a fight. I will post some pictures when I remember how.
Cheers again all
Jon
Cheers again all
Jon
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