Discussion
Having tried a few things to cure some bad running on the 350 (plugs, leads, air flow meter), we think that a new throttle pot may cure it. I've phoned a couple of places but am having a bit of trouble locating one at a sensible price, (tried Rimmer Bro.s £250!). Any ideas or am I just hoping for a miracle?
Gavin and '84 350 Tasmin.
Gavin and '84 350 Tasmin.
2 sheds said: Gavin yours probably has the very early type ( large cylindrical with 3 bolt fixing.
try Land rover breakers look in exchange & mart, or buy second hand later plenum £50 ish then fit a new later type pot at around £70 .
Tim
... and Tim just happens to have a job lot of the later plenum in his shed(s).....
Ian
wedg1e said:
2 sheds said: Gavin yours probably has the very early type ( large cylindrical with 3 bolt fixing.
try Land rover breakers look in exchange & mart, or buy second hand later plenum £50 ish then fit a new later type pot at around £70 .
Tim
... and Tim just happens to have a job lot of the later plenum in his shed(s).....
Ian
Actually no, believe it or not, all the flapper ones have the throttle bodies cut off, yours for a tenner
Tim
You could try and fix it - see an extract from a mail Adam Qauntrill sent to the tvr mailinf list a few years back - it worked fine for me.
1. Open the pot. There are three self-tapping screws holding it together, you can see them on the opposite side to the spindle. They may be sealed in with a compound, in which case dig it out first (I drilled it and found a hot soldering iron useful to dig out the last bits).
2. Desolder the ceramic track (three lugs).
3. Carefully prise out the track.
4. To get the slider to use fresh track, you need to offset the track slightly, about a millimeter will do it. File away some of the plastic that retains the track between the two lugs at the track ends. I used the hot soldering iron again to melt it away a bit!
5. Offer up the ceramic track, there should be a gap at the top lug now. Put the back of the pot and the slider back on, and twiddle it round a few times. Take it off and see if the slider now describes a slightly different arc on the grime which is on the track!
6. Solder the lugs back, and fill the gap at the top with some melted plastic (guess what - hot soldering iron!) This will prevent the ceramic track from sliding back to its old position.
7. Clean off the track and squirt on some electrolube.
8. Reassemble and test - you should now get a smooth reading on the ohmmeter varying between 100 ohms to 5k ohms approx, proportional to the throttle position.
Good Luck
Danny
PS Anyone heard from Adam recently?
1. Open the pot. There are three self-tapping screws holding it together, you can see them on the opposite side to the spindle. They may be sealed in with a compound, in which case dig it out first (I drilled it and found a hot soldering iron useful to dig out the last bits).
2. Desolder the ceramic track (three lugs).
3. Carefully prise out the track.
4. To get the slider to use fresh track, you need to offset the track slightly, about a millimeter will do it. File away some of the plastic that retains the track between the two lugs at the track ends. I used the hot soldering iron again to melt it away a bit!
5. Offer up the ceramic track, there should be a gap at the top lug now. Put the back of the pot and the slider back on, and twiddle it round a few times. Take it off and see if the slider now describes a slightly different arc on the grime which is on the track!
6. Solder the lugs back, and fill the gap at the top with some melted plastic (guess what - hot soldering iron!) This will prevent the ceramic track from sliding back to its old position.
7. Clean off the track and squirt on some electrolube.
8. Reassemble and test - you should now get a smooth reading on the ohmmeter varying between 100 ohms to 5k ohms approx, proportional to the throttle position.
Good Luck
Danny
PS Anyone heard from Adam recently?
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