Routing cable from fuse box...
Discussion
Hello all, Ive been a reader on PH's for ages, and have bought and sold usaing it too, but here is my first posing!
In short, I said goodbye to an elise 160 at the weekend, and at the same time became a very proud cerbera owner
. Naturally Ive already made up a list of things to do on the car, top of which is to address the rather high under-bonnet temperatures that the cerberas are common for. I fancy just installing a switch in the cabin somewhere that grounds the terminal on the two fan relays that activates the fans (who would go to the bother of running new leads under the bonnet/installing new relays etc?). I've already found the two wires that I need to ground out, but I was hoping someone might have some advice as to the best way to route a couple of small wires from the cabin to the boot.
Anyone got any suggestions?
In short, I said goodbye to an elise 160 at the weekend, and at the same time became a very proud cerbera owner
. Naturally Ive already made up a list of things to do on the car, top of which is to address the rather high under-bonnet temperatures that the cerberas are common for. I fancy just installing a switch in the cabin somewhere that grounds the terminal on the two fan relays that activates the fans (who would go to the bother of running new leads under the bonnet/installing new relays etc?). I've already found the two wires that I need to ground out, but I was hoping someone might have some advice as to the best way to route a couple of small wires from the cabin to the boot.Anyone got any suggestions?
i've already done a bleed and added some wetter water, and certainly the temps stay a bit smoother now, I just get a bit uneasy at how late the fans seem to kick in. Sitting in traffic in your TVR mak look smart, but when your rad cap goes pop, you're not going to look so cool any more!
Thing is, the cooling chip really only does the same thing which is to cut the fans in sooner (I know, it also helps to cycle them more often, and to help them cut in at the same temp as the stat). The chip also costs £70 more than my solution, and to be honest, theres a certain comfort in knowing that your fans have definetly come on.
Thing is, the cooling chip really only does the same thing which is to cut the fans in sooner (I know, it also helps to cycle them more often, and to help them cut in at the same temp as the stat). The chip also costs £70 more than my solution, and to be honest, theres a certain comfort in knowing that your fans have definetly come on.
get used to the car first - it's a race engine in the Cerb, not a nice smooth 4 cyl Toyota/Rover (??) engine like the Elise.
The radiators do get clogged up with age - I had the one on my '99 re-cored and it gave me a 10 degree drop in temp, now runs at a constant 80 have 100% confidence in my fans coming on.
If your worried about spending £70 - be scared, be very scared
Good luck and welcome to the fold.
The radiators do get clogged up with age - I had the one on my '99 re-cored and it gave me a 10 degree drop in temp, now runs at a constant 80 have 100% confidence in my fans coming on.
If your worried about spending £70 - be scared, be very scared
Good luck and welcome to the fold.
Its my intention to look after the car, and as such, if it needs money spent on it, then so be it. I got into this with my eyes open, and with a big tub of KY jelly for when the big bills start hitting home! I know £70 is nothing really, I just dont feel that it makes that much sense, when I can do (basically) the same job for nothing. Nobody agree?
brogenville said:
I know- we're an elite bunch up here! 
What? This kind of Elite?
Just thought I'd carry on the Lotus link.
Can understand the twitchyness of overheating, my old Elise popped it's head gasget and overheated BIG time - never did get it sorted, which was a real shame as it was a really sweet car. I still remember sitting in traffic watching the STACK instruments click up one degree at a time, we don't know how lucky we are with an inaccurate needle gauge.
Welcome to the fold BTW
Tim
Ah yes, another scotsman has taken hold of the country!
I actually quite liked the digital stack gauges, though I wouldn't exactly call the fuel gauge accurate- I could often drive for a good half hour before the fuel level dropped by even one litre! Magic cars those loti...dont even need fuel!
I actually quite liked the digital stack gauges, though I wouldn't exactly call the fuel gauge accurate- I could often drive for a good half hour before the fuel level dropped by even one litre! Magic cars those loti...dont even need fuel!
So I've heard- I'm gong to have a look at routing the capilarry tube as far away from the manifolds as possible in order to minimise this effect. Even so, like its been said above, 95 degrees seems pretty hot for the fans to come on, especially when you want your coolant to be sitting around 80-83 degrees.
Keithyboy said:
Welcome. As has been eluded to above - your temp gauge is also likely to be reading 10 degrees above what the coolant temp actually is because of the route the capillary tubing to the gauge is run.
Yup - but in my case the software diagnostics agreed with what the temp guage was telling me.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff