CLUTCH PROBLEMS

[GRIFFONMARK]

Please help. My '88 350i wedge has been running perfectly since I got it in Feb but this morning, after I left it for a week, the clutch had little travel the pedal going to the floor before the plate disengaged. Previously, it has always seemed properly adjusted. The car drives perfectly well but I fear a problem is looming. Any advice would be gratefully received. Regards, Mark.

[D1 MAD]

Does it improve if you pump the clutch pedal rapidly a few times? If so it could well be the master cylinder seals showing signs of age. It's a fairly simple job to replace them.

[pwd95]

First thing to check is the fluid level.

[pwd95]

Beat me to it Steve

[350zwelgje]

It is an hydraulic system, so should self adjust.
Is the fluid level ok? If not top up and bleed the system, or even better is to completely replace the fluid (especially when it is old), and bleed the system.

If still not ok, and fluid level is lower:
- Master cylinder can leak (into the footwell carpet)
- Or slave cylinder leaks.
Both can be overhauled.

The pipe connecting the master to the slave could be damaged. It rarely happens, but is a possibility.

If these things do not fix the problem it is time to start thinking of parts in the bellhousing....

Rob

[GRIFFONMARK]

Many thanks for your advice everyone. The pedal does not pump up. I'll check the fluid in daylight tomorrow and see if bleeding helps. Cheers, Mark

[darrentomlinson]

if it is not fluid, and happend suddenly with no clutch slipping,
then this is for you,
get a drill, get under the car, drill four holes in the alloy housing, big enough to get your hand in clenched,
feel inside for the lever that has fallen off, re-attach it, and make sure you also put it back on over the thrust bearing, you will need to also remove the slave cylinder, to do this,
when completed drill four more small holes and fit an alloy cover with sealant, and also re-attach the clutch push rod to the re-fitted arm.
took me a whole day to do this, but sorted the problem.
Daz.

[darrentomlinson]

sorry drill four holes, then use an electric hacksaw to cut a square hole.

[GRIFFONMARK]

Not sure I want to cut out large sections of alloy housing just yet... Checked the fluid and there ain't any. No obvious signs of recent leakage at the master cylinder inside or out and its too much hassle to get underneath to check slave. Had a good look from the sill area and pleasantly surprised to find my chassis all gleaming and painted white with waxoyl over it and no rust. Didn't dare look before as I got car cheap and unseen in my desperation to get a V8. Phew! I'll top it up and try to bleed it. What fluid should I use? Cheers, Mark

[ed_crouch]

Brake fluid. Dot 5.1. No point in using anything with a lower boiling point, as its almost the same price for the better fluid.

Ed.
P.S. ONce youve done the clutch. might want to run some thru the brakes, as you cant really keep half-full pots of brake fluid as they absorb water pretty fast.

[GRIFFONMARK]

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I've topped up the fluid and the clutch works a treat again. But for how long... When I get back off holiday I'll get it up off the ground and change the fluids - they don't look so clear. Maybe that's why the brakes disappear downhill approaching roundabouts when trying to outbrake Boxsters. Cheers, Mark

[darrentomlinson]

best fix is to undo each nipple on the brakes one at a time and pump once on the pedal, till the reservoir is almost empty, refill and start again, keep going till the master cylinder looks clear with new dot 5 fluid,
only one bleed nipple to the rear brakes on most wedges,
one each on the front,
bleed the nipple on the clutch the same, only one nipple,
if you are doing it solo, for all the above, fit a tight fitting pipe to the end of the nipple and sink it into a bottle,with some fluid in it.
it will allow you to press the pedal and let the pedal come back without it sucking air back in,
Daz