Fresh meat joins TVR "S1" ownership but need advice
Discussion
Hi all, I hope this is the place to get good advice because I've just got me a 1988 S1, anyway my new baby runs a little hot so I'm going to replace the radiator also a fan blade is missing so I need to know which dona car it is from ? also the brakes are shit!!!, is there any up-grades like a bigger servo or discs/pads/hoses. Thx all for reading this I hope you can help.
Cheer's Garry
Cheer's Garry
Before you try upgrading the brakes clean the calipers up, flush through with DOT5.1, fit some new discs and good fast road pads/shoes and (this is the important bit) bed them in properly following the manufacturers instructions. The standard brakes are fine when they're working properly unless you overheat them, and if you're overheating them on public roads there's something wrong with them/you.
Does the rad really need replacing? I'd give it a good flush out first. If it does then it is easier to get it recored than find a replacement
For the fan I'd forget trying to find an identical replacement and fit a generic fan. Best place to look is the kit car sites (like s-v-c.co.uk or nfauto.co.uk) and use one of the mounting kits that fixes it to the rad.
Also check that the swirl pot pressure cap is in good condition. If it is leaking then you'll lose pressure and this will reduce the cooling efficiency.
Brakes - does the servo actually work at all? They tend to corrode at the bottom where the dirt gets sprayed onto them and an air leak there won't help braking.
Another thing - are the discs or pads glazed? My car had done very few miles under previous ownership and the brakes were pathetic. New discs (Sierra 240mm vented) made a huge difference along with a fluid change. When the rotten servo was replaced it got even better and I can lock the wheels if required - something that I couldn't do when I first aquired mine.
Next step from that would be to fit Sierra XR4i front calipers and 260mm discs and braided hoses while you're at it. Can't comment on the efficiency of this setup because I haven't fitted them yet.
Don't go rushing into buying expensive parts unless you really want to - these cars can be maintained on a tight budget if you're handy with a spanner. The ability to weld is even more useful - hopefully you won't have to go there.
Jed
For the fan I'd forget trying to find an identical replacement and fit a generic fan. Best place to look is the kit car sites (like s-v-c.co.uk or nfauto.co.uk) and use one of the mounting kits that fixes it to the rad.
Also check that the swirl pot pressure cap is in good condition. If it is leaking then you'll lose pressure and this will reduce the cooling efficiency.
Brakes - does the servo actually work at all? They tend to corrode at the bottom where the dirt gets sprayed onto them and an air leak there won't help braking.
Another thing - are the discs or pads glazed? My car had done very few miles under previous ownership and the brakes were pathetic. New discs (Sierra 240mm vented) made a huge difference along with a fluid change. When the rotten servo was replaced it got even better and I can lock the wheels if required - something that I couldn't do when I first aquired mine.
Next step from that would be to fit Sierra XR4i front calipers and 260mm discs and braided hoses while you're at it. Can't comment on the efficiency of this setup because I haven't fitted them yet.
Don't go rushing into buying expensive parts unless you really want to - these cars can be maintained on a tight budget if you're handy with a spanner. The ability to weld is even more useful - hopefully you won't have to go there.
Jed
Hi, good man for buying an S type. You`ll struggle to have as much fun at any price when you`ve got it sorted. Sort the chassis/handling before the engine.
As for the brakes, sounds like the advice given about the servo and discs/pads is good. Check them thoroughly.
I cannot understand why people say they have to upgrade them (unless they want less pedal pressure, but hey, are we men, except the ladies of course?). They were designed (albeit a few years ago) to stop a fully laden Sierra with a trailer(3 tonnes?). They are perfectly adequate for a car which weighs fractionally over a tonne. I do track days with mine, and it`s fitted with a 230hp Granada Cosworth engine, and it stops on a six pence without fade. The only mods I have done are to fit green stuff pads, change the fluid, and fit steel braided pipes. To be honest, I am not sure if either of these alterations have made any difference. It always used to stop well, and I am certain with these pads thet they need to be warm before they work to full efficiency. Putting bigger discs on, unless you use expensive light weight stuff(which is a good idea if you do not mind blowing money), simply increases the unsprung weight, and deteriorates the ride/handling.
Your car is 18/19 years old. Try flushing the radiator, but don`t be surprised if the radiator needs to be re-cored. And it is true the swirl pot cap must seal correctly.
As for the brakes, sounds like the advice given about the servo and discs/pads is good. Check them thoroughly.
I cannot understand why people say they have to upgrade them (unless they want less pedal pressure, but hey, are we men, except the ladies of course?). They were designed (albeit a few years ago) to stop a fully laden Sierra with a trailer(3 tonnes?). They are perfectly adequate for a car which weighs fractionally over a tonne. I do track days with mine, and it`s fitted with a 230hp Granada Cosworth engine, and it stops on a six pence without fade. The only mods I have done are to fit green stuff pads, change the fluid, and fit steel braided pipes. To be honest, I am not sure if either of these alterations have made any difference. It always used to stop well, and I am certain with these pads thet they need to be warm before they work to full efficiency. Putting bigger discs on, unless you use expensive light weight stuff(which is a good idea if you do not mind blowing money), simply increases the unsprung weight, and deteriorates the ride/handling.
Your car is 18/19 years old. Try flushing the radiator, but don`t be surprised if the radiator needs to be re-cored. And it is true the swirl pot cap must seal correctly.
hello stranger 
pies said:
Some nice priced car in the classifieds 
Will this be no3 ~
It would be indeed.. The Chimaera has got to go as its just not getting used enough and whilst the S's don't seem to mind, the Chims get cantankerous (sp?) if you ignore them. Plus its a bigger lump of cash to have sitting idle. So its byebye Chim and hello something a bit less consuming.. I have to admit I have been thinking about the M series too, but the fixed roof is a bit of a shame.Will this be no3 ~
ATB
Matt.
Welcome Garry have had same prob's with my S1.Flush rad out as mentioned but if you want to fit better fan go to breakers yard & get one off of a renault laguna 95/96,minor alterations needed to fibre glass fan mounting back of rad(small bit needs cutting out)& mounting brackets have to be bent slightly to bolt it on but it does fit in & big difference to rad cooling.Would be nice to see some pic's of your car on forum I see you live in north lincs big place,I live east of Grantham if I'm close enough & you need any help e-mail me..
..Rayhttp://tvrserenity.blogspot.com/
Edited by Ray S on Friday 27th July 13:09
Edited by Ray S on Friday 27th July 13:31
Grimsby not far away about 1Hr & 15Mins as the S1 flies.
.RayHi Gary some good advice from the others on here. The brakes are mostly from sierra estates apparently.
A much heavier car than the S so in good condition they do stop the S on a sixpence.
The rotten servo was the fault with my first S.
I would add that both my S cars have run at 3/4 of the way up the temp gauge, even after new radiator water pump and thermostat etc on the first one as part of the rebuild. So get a thermometer and check the actual temperature before you spend a load of cash.
If its not boiling and the fan cuts in and out its probably ok.
Cheers Mick.
A much heavier car than the S so in good condition they do stop the S on a sixpence.
The rotten servo was the fault with my first S.
I would add that both my S cars have run at 3/4 of the way up the temp gauge, even after new radiator water pump and thermostat etc on the first one as part of the rebuild. So get a thermometer and check the actual temperature before you spend a load of cash.
If its not boiling and the fan cuts in and out its probably ok.
Cheers Mick.
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