18" wheel and tire specifications
Discussion
I know there have been endless posts relating to wheels and tyres, but to gather all the info into some proper specifications which would work well with the cerbera, this is a chart I've been trying to draw up. amendments/opinions/advice welcomed.
make sure weight is equal to or better than spiders - 12kg / 20lb
Front
Diameter: 18"
Option A: 7.5J width, 35mm offset (original 16" cerb width/offset) 215/35/R18
Option B: 8J width, 35 to 41mm offset 225/35/r18 (35mm = 6mm more pushed out than original 16s, same as spiders, but with 13mm more clearance on the inside of wheel, 41mm outer position as original 16s, and 7mm more inner wheel clearance than spiders)
Option C: 8.5j width, 42mm offset 225/35/r18, maybe 235/35/r18 would be better ("front" spider width/offset)
PCD: 5 X 114.3
Centre Bore 71mm
Rear
Diameter: 18"
Option A: 7.5J width, 35mm offset (original 16" cerb width/offset) 215/35/R18 see note 1
Option B: 8J width, 35 to 41mm offset 225/35/r18 (35mm = 6mm more pushed out than original 16s, same as spiders, but with 13mm more clearance on the inside of wheel, 41mm outer position as original 16s, and 7mm more inner wheel clearance than spiders) See note 2
OPTION C: 8.5J width, 42mm offset 245/35/r18
OPTION D: 9J width, furthest you can push wheels out (i.e. furthest you can lower offset) is 45mm offset, 3mm further out and 9mm less inner clearance than "front spiders" used on the rear, 48mm would give the same outer position, but 12mm less inner clearance as "front spiders" used on the rear 255/35/r18
OPTION E: 9.5J width, 48mm offset (7mm further out and 19mm less inner clearance than "front spiders" used on the rear, 275/35/r18 (may rub, only consider if you dont mind a little arch clearance work, and does this allow enough inner clearance also??!)
PCD: 5 X 114.3
Centre Bore 71mm
Note 1: only for use in conjunction with option A on front
Note 2: dont use this in conjunction with option C on front,
or you'll end up with a crazy "reverse stagger" setup!
make sure weight is equal to or better than spiders - 12kg / 20lb
Front
Diameter: 18"
Option A: 7.5J width, 35mm offset (original 16" cerb width/offset) 215/35/R18
Option B: 8J width, 35 to 41mm offset 225/35/r18 (35mm = 6mm more pushed out than original 16s, same as spiders, but with 13mm more clearance on the inside of wheel, 41mm outer position as original 16s, and 7mm more inner wheel clearance than spiders)
Option C: 8.5j width, 42mm offset 225/35/r18, maybe 235/35/r18 would be better ("front" spider width/offset)
PCD: 5 X 114.3
Centre Bore 71mm
Rear
Diameter: 18"
Option A: 7.5J width, 35mm offset (original 16" cerb width/offset) 215/35/R18 see note 1
Option B: 8J width, 35 to 41mm offset 225/35/r18 (35mm = 6mm more pushed out than original 16s, same as spiders, but with 13mm more clearance on the inside of wheel, 41mm outer position as original 16s, and 7mm more inner wheel clearance than spiders) See note 2
OPTION C: 8.5J width, 42mm offset 245/35/r18
OPTION D: 9J width, furthest you can push wheels out (i.e. furthest you can lower offset) is 45mm offset, 3mm further out and 9mm less inner clearance than "front spiders" used on the rear, 48mm would give the same outer position, but 12mm less inner clearance as "front spiders" used on the rear 255/35/r18
OPTION E: 9.5J width, 48mm offset (7mm further out and 19mm less inner clearance than "front spiders" used on the rear, 275/35/r18 (may rub, only consider if you dont mind a little arch clearance work, and does this allow enough inner clearance also??!)
PCD: 5 X 114.3
Centre Bore 71mm
Note 1: only for use in conjunction with option A on front
Note 2: dont use this in conjunction with option C on front,
or you'll end up with a crazy "reverse stagger" setup!
Edited by AlVal on Wednesday 25th July 08:47
Well the more I look into it, the more I realise when looking at wheel upgrades, you really need to bear in mind tyre prices, and not only tyre prices, but because a staggered setup is advisable, how many decent manufacturers are going to have a tyre model available in both the front fitment you settle for and the back fitment?
after much deliberation, I have finally decided the following combination will be the best for my needs, and very good value for money. All I need to do now is find the required rims at the right price! im choosing this setup, might be a few months yet before I buy, give me time to recover from the current big service bill! lightweight wheels will be a priority, design will come secondary.
Rear
18" 9J 45mm offset
Front
18" 7.5J, 35mm offset
2 X Falken GRB FK 452 143.20 each balanced etc/fitted for the rear
2 X Falken GRB FK 452 99.59 front
£485.58 worth of tyres (blackcircles.com)
after much deliberation, I have finally decided the following combination will be the best for my needs, and very good value for money. All I need to do now is find the required rims at the right price! im choosing this setup, might be a few months yet before I buy, give me time to recover from the current big service bill! lightweight wheels will be a priority, design will come secondary.
Rear
18" 9J 45mm offset
Front
18" 7.5J, 35mm offset
2 X Falken GRB FK 452 143.20 each balanced etc/fitted for the rear
2 X Falken GRB FK 452 99.59 front
£485.58 worth of tyres (blackcircles.com)
Hi Al,
Loads of details there, what's wrong with your current set up up? And thinking that this is going to cost you a couple of grand probably, but design not the issue as you say, do you think this is the best money you could be spending on your pandj? It was you who had a few issues over the first check up of your cerb by the engineer? Maybe worth getting a few of those issues seen to or at least propaerly checked.
Are you planning on taking it on track? I'd think a £1000 of driver training would be the first place I'd start, forgive me if of course if you are the next Lewis Hamilton.
Loads of details there, what's wrong with your current set up up? And thinking that this is going to cost you a couple of grand probably, but design not the issue as you say, do you think this is the best money you could be spending on your pandj? It was you who had a few issues over the first check up of your cerb by the engineer? Maybe worth getting a few of those issues seen to or at least propaerly checked.
Are you planning on taking it on track? I'd think a £1000 of driver training would be the first place I'd start, forgive me if of course if you are the next Lewis Hamilton.
southendpier said:
It was you who had a few issues over the first check up of your cerb by the engineer? Maybe worth getting a few of those issues seen to or at least propaerly checked.
all that stuff being sorted at the moment 
this is getting all my research in place for the future!
it was the suspension parts (shocks / springs) that currently need replacing that got me thinking, i was thinking if im replacing suspension, ill go for gaz or protech, and if i'm doing that, id better think about what tyre /wheel combination I intend to run, because why get it all set up for 16s and then end up changing wheels which would throw the geometry out again! so I thought get the wheel and tyre choice decided upon and purchased before upgrading suspension, so suspension can be set up to suit properly.
Edited by AlVal on Wednesday 25th July 21:13
.
Compomotive do some gorgeous wheels in various sizes that look like 6 spoke versions of RL7's.
will edit with links of examples in a second...
On a Noble M12:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On a TVR Sagaris:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/profile.asp?m...
In anthracite, on a Cerb - they'd look the b
s!
Could get alot wider rubber at the back too if you so wish...
will edit with links of examples in a second...
On a Noble M12:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On a TVR Sagaris:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/profile.asp?m...
In anthracite, on a Cerb - they'd look the b
s!Could get alot wider rubber at the back too if you so wish...
Edited by BCA on Wednesday 25th July 21:43
Edited by BCA on Wednesday 25th July 21:44
Gazzab said:
He had a Gallardo V8 so he can afford it I am sure. Must earn £150K plus I guess? On that whack you dont worry about car running costs if you are without kids etc....
hehe ill never live down calling it a v8, will I on a third of that! wife, no kids (yet)!
It doesnt have to cost _that_ much to have a gallardo for a short period
HarryW said:
I just searched his profile and beat you (see below!) lol IMHO they would look far better on a Cerb, prefer spiders on a Sag, but each to thier own.
I could say no because they are £10k+.
£10k to spend elsewhere on a Cerb would make a far far greater difference to the car.
Infact, may I suggest £2k on wheels and tyres (Toyo R888's) is more appropriate then throw £8k at the car. If it were my money, I'd get the body off, tidy up the chassis, rip out the cage-rip out alot of the rear interior/door cards/side impact bars, install a DECENT full cage with side bars and tidy up with the bare minimum of carpet.
£10k to spend elsewhere on a Cerb would make a far far greater difference to the car.
Infact, may I suggest £2k on wheels and tyres (Toyo R888's) is more appropriate then throw £8k at the car. If it were my money, I'd get the body off, tidy up the chassis, rip out the cage-rip out alot of the rear interior/door cards/side impact bars, install a DECENT full cage with side bars and tidy up with the bare minimum of carpet.
BCA said:
I could say no because they are £10k+.
£10k to spend elsewhere on a Cerb would make a far far greater difference to the car.
Infact, may I suggest £2k on wheels and tyres (Toyo R888's) is more appropriate then throw £8k at the car. If it were my money, I'd get the body off, tidy up the chassis, rip out the cage-rip out alot of the rear interior/door cards/side impact bars, install a DECENT full cage with side bars and tidy up with the bare minimum of carpet.
where'd you find the price?£10k to spend elsewhere on a Cerb would make a far far greater difference to the car.
Infact, may I suggest £2k on wheels and tyres (Toyo R888's) is more appropriate then throw £8k at the car. If it were my money, I'd get the body off, tidy up the chassis, rip out the cage-rip out alot of the rear interior/door cards/side impact bars, install a DECENT full cage with side bars and tidy up with the bare minimum of carpet.
JensenA said:
Why do you want 18" wheels Alval? From what I've read on here most people reckon the standard 17" are the best bet, but I'm always willing to learn from other people's experience and knowledge.
Looks like more research needed definitely need to look into 17s. Actually have you ever noticed that the quickest launching cars never have huge rims and low profiles? anything built to drag tends to have smaller rims and big fat tyres, right? AlVal said:
JensenA said:
Why do you want 18" wheels Alval? From what I've read on here most people reckon the standard 17" are the best bet, but I'm always willing to learn from other people's experience and knowledge.
Looks like more research needed definitely need to look into 17s. Actually have you ever noticed that the quickest launching cars never have huge rims and low profiles? anything built to drag tends to have smaller rims and big fat tyres, right? However, I tried 17s and 18s on the same day on the drag strip and saw no difference in times. Even if on the 17s the car had been 0.25secs quicker then this would almost be irrelevent for "real world" driving as you can lose this easily with a slightly sloppy launch.
Depends what you want the wheels for really, but 18s look better so go for these.
Jules.
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