Bonnet roller fixings
Discussion
I want to replace my worn rollers, the securing bolts are very tight and am frightened of breaking something. Anyone know if there is some kind of tube nut bonded in to the panel edge, and is anything fixed to the bonnet cross bar/prop pivot? Precat if that makes any difference.
Thanks guys,
Steve
Thanks guys,
Steve
Oh this brings back memories!
I took mine apart a couple of years ago. As Barreti says, the bolt which secures the roller screws into the aluminium cross bar with the bonnet stay attached to it. The problem of course is that bimetallic corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminium cross bar means the two shall ne'er be parted...
In fact one of mine did come out. The other was a struggle. First of all the cross bar twisted under the torque of trying to undo the bolt. Fortunately I realised this before b*ggering it completely. I gripped the cross bar where the bolt goes in in a vice and tried again. The bolt sheared. I welded a nut onto the stub of the bolt (at least with the bolt sheared I could get the cross bar off the bonnett). I think a combination of heat (from the welding), WD40 and sympathetic persuasion with a decent spanner eased it out.
when replacing the bolts use PLENTY of copper grease and don't do them up too tight.
Don't try and do it with the bonnet on the car either. You need as good access and secure location of the pieces as possible.
I ended up reinforcing my cross bar at each end with brass tube sleeved over the cross bar and epoxied in place.
I took mine apart a couple of years ago. As Barreti says, the bolt which secures the roller screws into the aluminium cross bar with the bonnet stay attached to it. The problem of course is that bimetallic corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminium cross bar means the two shall ne'er be parted...
In fact one of mine did come out. The other was a struggle. First of all the cross bar twisted under the torque of trying to undo the bolt. Fortunately I realised this before b*ggering it completely. I gripped the cross bar where the bolt goes in in a vice and tried again. The bolt sheared. I welded a nut onto the stub of the bolt (at least with the bolt sheared I could get the cross bar off the bonnett). I think a combination of heat (from the welding), WD40 and sympathetic persuasion with a decent spanner eased it out.
when replacing the bolts use PLENTY of copper grease and don't do them up too tight.
Don't try and do it with the bonnet on the car either. You need as good access and secure location of the pieces as possible.
I ended up reinforcing my cross bar at each end with brass tube sleeved over the cross bar and epoxied in place.
Tank Boy said:
If it was two pound a bottle night down your local then you will have to buy me five beers and a cigar for your P&P. I also have a stud removal tool for the three piece split rim oz alloys if anyone is interested and a few other bits.
Tank Boy YHMBloody Hell 1800 i am spending too much time on hear

Steve - I have just fitted the Steve Heath bonnet stay (the old one bent under the weight of the bonnet if left for more than an hour or so, but I suppose typical jobs shouldn't take that long!). They are a bu**er to get off. But on re-assembly, I noticed that the roller is slightly tapered. By fitting a slightly thicker washer between the embedded nut in the bonnet and the roller moved them outboard a bit, and tightned things up a tad. Worth a go?
Thanks for the replies and tips guys, have given up on removing them now.
I got one bolt to unscrew a couple of turns by clamping the stay and soaking in WD40, then it went completely solid,but fortunately it did up again! I really dont see how they will part without using heat,and obviously cant get the assembly away from the bonnet. Have had plenty of experience of bimetal corosion on marine outboard motors, and really dont want to risk damaging the bonnet or stay.
Fortunately both rollers spin nicely,one of them had a flat spot but have repaired that in situ with some epoxy putty used for repairing plastic shower trays and have restored the radius back, even dried the right colour! Will try the tyre or velcro tip next to stop it wearing again.
Steve
I got one bolt to unscrew a couple of turns by clamping the stay and soaking in WD40, then it went completely solid,but fortunately it did up again! I really dont see how they will part without using heat,and obviously cant get the assembly away from the bonnet. Have had plenty of experience of bimetal corosion on marine outboard motors, and really dont want to risk damaging the bonnet or stay.
Fortunately both rollers spin nicely,one of them had a flat spot but have repaired that in situ with some epoxy putty used for repairing plastic shower trays and have restored the radius back, even dried the right colour! Will try the tyre or velcro tip next to stop it wearing again.
Steve
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Also covers any scares & stops the bonnet flapping 