Discussion
Well one problem leads to another, 2 weeks before Le Mans the radio decides it's had enough of playing my choice in music, so wip that out to have a look at the connections (which all seem fine, 
) and the wood trim around the radio decides it's had enough of being stuck on the right hand side around the light switches, so the question is how do I stick this back on, whats the best glue to do it, or is there more to it than that 
) and the wood trim around the radio decides it's had enough of being stuck on the right hand side around the light switches, so the question is how do I stick this back on, whats the best glue to do it, or is there more to it than that 
Parts cost of both dash sections (facelift style) is £400 from TMS. Might be cheaper from elsewhere. I've had the dash top off, and it looks simple enough to fit. Unless the phrase "I've had the dash off" scares you, in which case you'll need to add the cost of fitting :-).
Personally, I object to paying £400 for what is allegedly polyester laminate on steel, so I'm going to cost up solid walnut and a french polisher. Apart from needing a thin bit a the lower right of the top section where it slots into the lower part of the dash, there should be no problem with a "proper" depth of wood.
Personally, I object to paying £400 for what is allegedly polyester laminate on steel, so I'm going to cost up solid walnut and a french polisher. Apart from needing a thin bit a the lower right of the top section where it slots into the lower part of the dash, there should be no problem with a "proper" depth of wood.
I believe you have assumed that the wood veneer has come away from the metal backing, if this is true I would remove the whole lower switch panel before trying to glue it back onto the metal backing.
The wood trim/backing around the radio housing is held in the dash by 4 screws, no glue is used to stick it to the dash. These screws are either side of the radio appature and are accessed by taking out the radio cage. Once you have done this the whole panel pulls forward and you can access the switches etc. If you have stuck the panel against the leather you'll have big trouble getting to the switches bulbs etc.
The wood trim/backing around the radio housing is held in the dash by 4 screws, no glue is used to stick it to the dash. These screws are either side of the radio appature and are accessed by taking out the radio cage. Once you have done this the whole panel pulls forward and you can access the switches etc. If you have stuck the panel against the leather you'll have big trouble getting to the switches bulbs etc.
dannyboyo said: I think Zertec or Leven or someone do a brushed aluminium dash replacement which I'm pretty tempted by, as my dash is pretty cracked too. Not exactly top of my list of things to do at the moment though!!
When I get one though I'm gonna have a bash at fitting it myself (ohhhh!)
Get that dash fixed!
The 'walnut' around my stereo is a bit ify to, to the point that if I push the hazard light button it gets stuck behind the panel and you can't turn the hazards off! (much embarasment) I have two small cracks around the rev counter too. Having just seen the cost of a replacement £400? I might live with it.
Ed Bilboe said:
Thta was my conclusion -- or let the next owner fix it......
Philip C wrote: 'I'm going to cost up solid walnut and a french polisher'
I'm all in favour of real wood but French polish is not waterproof - you need a synthetic finish, eg cellulose. My (Griff) came with an ally dash which at first I didn't like and I got a nice piece of figured ash, stuck it to an ally sheet backing and was just about to start something irreversible when people started saying how much they liked the ally dash and how it went with the (silver) car... so I chickened out and left it. I've even got to like it...
I'm all in favour of real wood but French polish is not waterproof - you need a synthetic finish, eg cellulose. My (Griff) came with an ally dash which at first I didn't like and I got a nice piece of figured ash, stuck it to an ally sheet backing and was just about to start something irreversible when people started saying how much they liked the ally dash and how it went with the (silver) car... so I chickened out and left it. I've even got to like it...
I've had my car for 2 years now and the dash was perfect until about three months ago, since then i've counted 7 cracks so far and one (on the far right) has completely split from end to end.
Any idea's as to why this has suddenly happened?
If anything I've hardely used it this year as I've been working away from home.
Any idea's as to why this has suddenly happened?
If anything I've hardely used it this year as I've been working away from home.
Sarnian
This fits with my experience - mine was also perfect until about 3 months ago.
Then I got 1 crack, then another, now theres 3 plus a 50p sized peice of veneer coming away from the metal backing on the switch plate, and a very small piece at the edge of that has cracked off. To top it off the switch plate itself just fell off completely at the weekend, and I had to stick it back with "no more nails".
My car is seven years old, and I reckon thats about as long as the dash will last before falling apart. Its demise seems to be sudden and spectacular!
This fits with my experience - mine was also perfect until about 3 months ago.
Then I got 1 crack, then another, now theres 3 plus a 50p sized peice of veneer coming away from the metal backing on the switch plate, and a very small piece at the edge of that has cracked off. To top it off the switch plate itself just fell off completely at the weekend, and I had to stick it back with "no more nails".
My car is seven years old, and I reckon thats about as long as the dash will last before falling apart. Its demise seems to be sudden and spectacular!
Can I join the cracked dash club?
Whoever the numb nuts at TVR was who thought that sticking plastic on steel with the obvious disparity of the two materials with regards to their different thermal contraction and expansion rates,probably won the TVR queer foible of the year award - but hey its not big and its not clever, just bloody expensive.
Hey RACEBOY just a thought
but if your gonna be lifting and bending the veneer to get the glue underneath do it with a hot interior, the plastic may be a little more pliable and so less likely to shatter.
P.S.If you get clumsy and reckless in the heat like me maybe the missus will let you borrow her hairdryer for the job. I've no idea whether this will help or not but sounds right eh.
Whoever the numb nuts at TVR was who thought that sticking plastic on steel with the obvious disparity of the two materials with regards to their different thermal contraction and expansion rates,probably won the TVR queer foible of the year award - but hey its not big and its not clever, just bloody expensive.
Hey RACEBOY just a thought
but if your gonna be lifting and bending the veneer to get the glue underneath do it with a hot interior, the plastic may be a little more pliable and so less likely to shatter. P.S.If you get clumsy and reckless in the heat like me maybe the missus will let you borrow her hairdryer for the job. I've no idea whether this will help or not but sounds right eh.
wildego1 said:
Hey RACEBOY just a thought
My vaneer was actually firmly stuck to the steel, it was the steel that had come away from the dash
Fixed it now anyway, but the switches are still a little shy of the face of the dash just got to get the radio out and push them back
Just to add to this post.. The heat over the last couple of weeks has finally destroyed my dashboard.. the one little crack has now turned into lots and lots of cracks. Has anyone out there actually replaced their dash.. I am looking to find a aluminium replacement but can not find anyone that sells them?
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