Bonnet rattle easy fix!
Discussion
My bonnett rattled badly due to the naff 'plastic pins in metal plates' securing method. I've slipped small domed rubber tap washers over the end of the plastic pins and they fit perfectly in the bonnet plates. Because they are domed they self-centre and compress slightly. Because the plastic pins are still in the centre of the washer there is no danger of the bonnet opening if the washer tore away. Seems to be a cheap simple fix which might be of use to someone.
I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.
Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.
I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.
Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.
ive literally just managed to sort by bonnet after moaning about it for 6 months. I went to LEVEN and bough turned ally replacements for the silly plastic pins on the ends of the dods. They are threaded so i just tapped a thread on the bar and screwed on - bobs yer uncle and the bonnet now locks completely and doesn't rattle! The pins cost me 11quid.........that was the easy job, then I spent an hour and a half replacing the bl00dy wiper park switch!
jonbarrett said:
My bonnett rattled badly due to the naff 'plastic pins in metal plates' securing method. I've slipped small domed rubber tap washers over the end of the plastic pins and they fit perfectly in the bonnet plates. Because they are domed they self-centre and compress slightly. Because the plastic pins are still in the centre of the washer there is no danger of the bonnet opening if the washer tore away. Seems to be a cheap simple fix which might be of use to someone.
I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.
Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.
Post a pic, could be a handy afternoon job for me.I have a picture if anyone would like to see it.
Please ignore this message if this is already a common fix.
cheers
MB
Here is how I did it in pictures.
1) Buy a small domed tap washer (3/8in I think but not sure). Punch, drill or cut the hole in the washer until it is large enough to fit over the end of the plastic rod end.

2) Remove the upper engine cover so you can see the locking mechanism with the bonnet closed. Position the metal plate on the inner wing so the tab on the bonnet is a perefect sliding fit on its outer edge. I did this because the domed washer will place an axial force on the bonnet tab which will bend unless it is supported by the metal wing plate. Also ensure the metal wing plate is positioned so the centre of the domed washer lines up with the centre of the hole on the bonnet tab.

3) Adjust the length of the rod arms so the domed washer is squashed into the hole on the bonnet tab when the knob is turned.

4) Instant fix for me. Took about 15-minutes each side. Time will tell if it lasts. Washers were a few pence. Because the end of the plastic pin is inside the body of the washer, if the washer split and fell out, the bonnet would remain held.
Let me know how you get on. Probably the most difficult job is enlarging the hole in the washer. Luckily, I have some small hole punches. A sharp knife will probably be sufficient.
1) Buy a small domed tap washer (3/8in I think but not sure). Punch, drill or cut the hole in the washer until it is large enough to fit over the end of the plastic rod end.

2) Remove the upper engine cover so you can see the locking mechanism with the bonnet closed. Position the metal plate on the inner wing so the tab on the bonnet is a perefect sliding fit on its outer edge. I did this because the domed washer will place an axial force on the bonnet tab which will bend unless it is supported by the metal wing plate. Also ensure the metal wing plate is positioned so the centre of the domed washer lines up with the centre of the hole on the bonnet tab.

3) Adjust the length of the rod arms so the domed washer is squashed into the hole on the bonnet tab when the knob is turned.

4) Instant fix for me. Took about 15-minutes each side. Time will tell if it lasts. Washers were a few pence. Because the end of the plastic pin is inside the body of the washer, if the washer split and fell out, the bonnet would remain held.
Let me know how you get on. Probably the most difficult job is enlarging the hole in the washer. Luckily, I have some small hole punches. A sharp knife will probably be sufficient.
jonbarrett said:
Julian
It's difficult to see from the images but the small diameter shank of the plastic locking pins extend into the bore of the hole in the washer. Thus, as the washer is pushed tight into the large diameter hole in the bonnet plate the pin is positioned correctly.

Oh, right, that makes more sense It's difficult to see from the images but the small diameter shank of the plastic locking pins extend into the bore of the hole in the washer. Thus, as the washer is pushed tight into the large diameter hole in the bonnet plate the pin is positioned correctly.

. Btw impressed with the drawing 
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