Engine out... what will i need?
Discussion
Plan to remove the engine of my 94 Chimaera 400 in a couple of weeks - have a few leaking core plugs. It was diagnosed at my last service almost a year ago, although it is actually losing very little coolant. However, it something that needs to be done and will take the opportunity to do a few other jobs too.
While the engine is out, i will be changing the clutch and will treat the front of the chassis. My exhaust manifold gaskets sound like they're blowing, so these will be changed too.
Is there anything else i should consider doing?
Also, what what will i need in addition to the core plugs, clutch and manifold gaskets (ie any other gaskets etc)?
Cheers,
James
While the engine is out, i will be changing the clutch and will treat the front of the chassis. My exhaust manifold gaskets sound like they're blowing, so these will be changed too.
Is there anything else i should consider doing?
Also, what what will i need in addition to the core plugs, clutch and manifold gaskets (ie any other gaskets etc)?
Cheers,
James
rev-erend said:
You will need an :
Engine Crane & Chains
Trolly jack to support the g/box
various sockets
Lever bar to remove engine from box
Mate
G/f or wife to make tea & coffee
Don't forget to remove manifolds first and engine
mounts from engine - it makes thinks much easier.
Make sure to get a crane that has a large enough reach to get the engine as it's so far back, sounds obvious but took me a while to find one!Engine Crane & Chains
Trolly jack to support the g/box
various sockets
Lever bar to remove engine from box
Mate
G/f or wife to make tea & coffee
Don't forget to remove manifolds first and engine
mounts from engine - it makes thinks much easier.
Out with the Old
And in with the New.
Jeez, what a job!
Just to complement the good advice above, here are a couple of additional thoughts:
1. Get organised (you obviously are), give yourself plenty of working space and take your time.
2. Take photo's and label everything (label screwbags for fasteners too).
3. Make sure you blank open lines (fuel supply/rail, power steering lines etc).
4. Check the wings and front are clean and polished then cover them in thick polythene sheet and a blanket. Be wary of how you attach the sheet; masking tape reacted with my lacquer.
5. I left my manifolds on; they make good handles and if they are bandaged or covered in rag there are no sharp edges to damage the inner wings when you are pushing, rocking and heaving.
6. The greabox is only suspended from the rear on two isolation mounts. Some people place a jack or some other support under the front of the box. I suspended mine using some of those 1" nylon straps with the buckle that you attach stuff to the roof rack with as it is quite elastic. The gearbox was hammoc'd between the chassis rails. I did this for fear of causing damage to the gearbox input shaft. A jack did see some action however.
7. Separate your loom and tape it to the windscreen to keep it out of the way and do the same with the throttle cable to prevent scratching stuff. While my motor was out I removed the inner cable and at install I fitted a new length of bicycle brake cable. I also removed most of the loom sheath which had gone hard and replaced it with new (it's cheap; mine came from Frosts).
8. I had the front of the chassis on axle stands and the wheels off for this job. When you have the weight of the motor on the hoist you'll need good access to the mounts which can be a faff; I got in through the wheel arches. You need to remove both the two nuts and bolts that attach the mounts to the engine bracket and the two nuts that attach the mount to the chassis to get the motor free. The mounts will drop away then (it's not obvious from looking).
9. Big Col at Dulfords told me to undo the gear change linkeage at the top of the gearbox as a precaution against bending the mechanism; I did, it's no big deal.
Oh, and as Chimjunkie states, separating the engine/bell housing can be a job in itself.
Other than that, just clean and check everything for serviceability if its gonna be reused. Grease the gearbox input shaft and lever mechanism.
I was quoted £1500 for a transplant! It's a DIY job.
Have fun
And in with the New.
Jeez, what a job!
Just to complement the good advice above, here are a couple of additional thoughts:
1. Get organised (you obviously are), give yourself plenty of working space and take your time.
2. Take photo's and label everything (label screwbags for fasteners too).
3. Make sure you blank open lines (fuel supply/rail, power steering lines etc).
4. Check the wings and front are clean and polished then cover them in thick polythene sheet and a blanket. Be wary of how you attach the sheet; masking tape reacted with my lacquer.
5. I left my manifolds on; they make good handles and if they are bandaged or covered in rag there are no sharp edges to damage the inner wings when you are pushing, rocking and heaving.
6. The greabox is only suspended from the rear on two isolation mounts. Some people place a jack or some other support under the front of the box. I suspended mine using some of those 1" nylon straps with the buckle that you attach stuff to the roof rack with as it is quite elastic. The gearbox was hammoc'd between the chassis rails. I did this for fear of causing damage to the gearbox input shaft. A jack did see some action however.
7. Separate your loom and tape it to the windscreen to keep it out of the way and do the same with the throttle cable to prevent scratching stuff. While my motor was out I removed the inner cable and at install I fitted a new length of bicycle brake cable. I also removed most of the loom sheath which had gone hard and replaced it with new (it's cheap; mine came from Frosts).
8. I had the front of the chassis on axle stands and the wheels off for this job. When you have the weight of the motor on the hoist you'll need good access to the mounts which can be a faff; I got in through the wheel arches. You need to remove both the two nuts and bolts that attach the mounts to the engine bracket and the two nuts that attach the mount to the chassis to get the motor free. The mounts will drop away then (it's not obvious from looking).
9. Big Col at Dulfords told me to undo the gear change linkeage at the top of the gearbox as a precaution against bending the mechanism; I did, it's no big deal.
Oh, and as Chimjunkie states, separating the engine/bell housing can be a job in itself.
Other than that, just clean and check everything for serviceability if its gonna be reused. Grease the gearbox input shaft and lever mechanism.
I was quoted £1500 for a transplant! It's a DIY job.
Have fun
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