Chim 4.0 Running Hot........
Discussion
Hi All,
My 95 Chim 4.0 is running a little hot when the traffic is slow or driving round town.
At motorway speeds the guages reads around 80degs ish.....but as soon as I slow down it creeps close to the red...never going in the red but close all the same.....when moving along again the temp does come down.
Have done all the sensible checks....fans working and coming in...checked the cooling system is full and free of air locks....both are fine
My friends Chim never moves from 90degs come rain shine or speed of traffic....I'm out of ideas.....any thoughts?
My 95 Chim 4.0 is running a little hot when the traffic is slow or driving round town.
At motorway speeds the guages reads around 80degs ish.....but as soon as I slow down it creeps close to the red...never going in the red but close all the same.....when moving along again the temp does come down.
Have done all the sensible checks....fans working and coming in...checked the cooling system is full and free of air locks....both are fine
My friends Chim never moves from 90degs come rain shine or speed of traffic....I'm out of ideas.....any thoughts?
gmw9666 said:
My friends Chim never moves from 90degs come rain shine or speed of traffic....I'm out of ideas.....any thoughts?
Yes, the temperature gauge is probably broken! 
More seriously, could you be a bit more specific about the checks you've done so far?
Edited by GreenV8S on Thursday 2nd August 13:03
have a look at p87 and p253 of the chimera bible. This will help to start diagnosing. Apparently there are 3 temp sensors. Most lilley is the instrument's sensor or its wiring. It could be old and be reading wrong (resistance) or its the wrong one and therefore displays a inccorect needle position.
Good luck!
Good luck!
From a link I saw on this site...I've
made sure boths fan cuts in as the temp rises....and
checked the water system is primed
"With the engine off, undo the swirl pot brass screw and check for coolant level. Coolant should be brimming the swirl pot; if not then top up, replace the lid, agitate the top hose for a minute then recheck the swirl pot level. When the swirl pot need no more water make sure the expansion pot is 1/3 to 1/2 full (any fuller and there won't be enough expansion space) run the engine.
Once the engine is hot turn it off and leave to cool then recheck the swirl pot level. Top up as required and repeat. Once the swirl pot is found to be full after running and cooling the engine your system is primed"
The car runs with good oil pressure, ticks over at 1000rpm smoothly....
Have checked the coolant and there is no loss there.
made sure boths fan cuts in as the temp rises....and
checked the water system is primed
"With the engine off, undo the swirl pot brass screw and check for coolant level. Coolant should be brimming the swirl pot; if not then top up, replace the lid, agitate the top hose for a minute then recheck the swirl pot level. When the swirl pot need no more water make sure the expansion pot is 1/3 to 1/2 full (any fuller and there won't be enough expansion space) run the engine.
Once the engine is hot turn it off and leave to cool then recheck the swirl pot level. Top up as required and repeat. Once the swirl pot is found to be full after running and cooling the engine your system is primed"
The car runs with good oil pressure, ticks over at 1000rpm smoothly....
Have checked the coolant and there is no loss there.
Do make sure your fans are sucking air, there have been several reports of fans wired the wrong way round. Check the fan belt, and look for any leaks (particularly under the nose of the water pump). Ensure the pressure cap on the swirl / expansion tank is OK (a spare is cheap & worth having a spare to boot).
If you are up to it, fitting a new stat & otter switch is not a waste of time as its always useful to have spares anyway. An override switch so you can manually switch the fans on/off is very handy & you can eliminate the otter switch operation / rating problems at any time.
Dave
If you are up to it, fitting a new stat & otter switch is not a waste of time as its always useful to have spares anyway. An override switch so you can manually switch the fans on/off is very handy & you can eliminate the otter switch operation / rating problems at any time.
Dave
............and when everything checks out, just bear in mind that the most inaccurate items on a car, let alone a TVR are; Temp gauge; fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge - Especially if they are electrical items, (not capillary) as they are on the TVR !!!
Just use them on the basis of "...hmmm I seem to have oil pressure, some fuel in the tank and the engines's been running and is "warm"........!!!"
Certainly when they register zero's or "red-line" and they haven't before, There's a problem !!
On instruments you pays your money (or not as in TVR !!)...........!!
K4Trv
Just use them on the basis of "...hmmm I seem to have oil pressure, some fuel in the tank and the engines's been running and is "warm"........!!!"
Certainly when they register zero's or "red-line" and they haven't before, There's a problem !!
On instruments you pays your money (or not as in TVR !!)...........!!
K4Trv
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