Replacing fuel tank on 110
Discussion
Right I have a leaky fuel tank that is getting worse on my 110 so looks like I had better replace it. Thought I might have a go myself at this but bearing in mind I am something of a numpty, is there anything I should be aware of whilst doing this or indeed tips or tricks to make it easier. I have a tow bar fitted which I understands adds a little bit of hassle. Failing positive advice, is it a harder job than it looks (it looks pretty accessible to me hence me wanting to have a go) so should I just pass it onto a garage to do?
touching cloth said:
Right I have a leaky fuel tank that is getting worse on my 110 so looks like I had better replace it. Thought I might have a go myself at this but bearing in mind I am something of a numpty, is there anything I should be aware of whilst doing this or indeed tips or tricks to make it easier. I have a tow bar fitted which I understands adds a little bit of hassle. Failing positive advice, is it a harder job than it looks (it looks pretty accessible to me hence me wanting to have a go) so should I just pass it onto a garage to do?
You can do it yourself.But expect the nuts and bolts to be seized.And make sure its empty first.Makes the job a lot easier
Cheers matey - I am going to have a good poke around underneath this afternoon as it is dry today, and fully assess my "mission" - first stage will be draining it (not much in there tbh as have been running it very low anyway). Wish me luck.
OT: Good to hear you are in for Brands now, see you then.
OT: Good to hear you are in for Brands now, see you then.
It's pretty straight forward, if a bit of a fiddle.
The fuel pipe attaches to the top of the tank which is a bit tricky to get to and the tank itself is a bugger to lift and bolt at the same time but a jack and some blocks help. And the tank "protector" comes seperately so you'll need to seal that to stop water and stones getting in which is what caused the old one to rot...
You'll also need to take the fuel lift pipe (on top of the tank) off to put on your new tank which I had to drill out and needed a new gasket, and the fuel sender out which is held in with a ring that you can drift out pretty easily.
The fuel pipe attaches to the top of the tank which is a bit tricky to get to and the tank itself is a bugger to lift and bolt at the same time but a jack and some blocks help. And the tank "protector" comes seperately so you'll need to seal that to stop water and stones getting in which is what caused the old one to rot...
You'll also need to take the fuel lift pipe (on top of the tank) off to put on your new tank which I had to drill out and needed a new gasket, and the fuel sender out which is held in with a ring that you can drift out pretty easily.
Edited by mechsympathy on Thursday 16th August 11:55
Get that towbar off and out of the way. Then drift out the sender unit locking ring. Then cut of the Jubilee clips holding the filling and breather pipe to the fuel tank, sharp chisel and hammer gets these off in one hit. Now remove the two bolts nearest the rear cross member and the the two at the front. As you lower the fuel tank you can :fingercrossed: unclip the top fuel line from the chassis and remove it from the pick up while it's on the deck.
TOP TIP use new gaskets and olives when fitting your new one.
HTH Matt
TOP TIP use new gaskets and olives when fitting your new one.
HTH Matt
Sorry to drag this thread back to the top but just wanted to say thanks again for all the advice.... finally found a free day to remove the tank (poor old bus has been languishing on the driveway for too long) and she is now temporarily sans fuel tank. I didn't preorder a replacement as (being half scottish) I wanted to check that this one was not patchable first, which it isn't and never was going to be was it lol.
Fairly sure getting the old one out will be the easier of the two half's, not really looking forward to trying to manoeuvre, bolt and attach all the bits but no tuning back now
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