Replacing Rear Pads
Replacing Rear Pads
Author
Discussion

BatleyBoy

Original Poster:

2,036 posts

251 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Anyone got instructions (or pictures) on replacing the rear brake pads?
A reference number for pads would be helpful too!
Thanks.

That Daddy

19,460 posts

251 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
I would be inclined to use genuine ford pads,unless your going sports compound.

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
They are Cosworth Sierra 1985>1993 rear pads(all the same) the EBC number for them is DP2617(Greenstuff).
Won't get into the debate about what make you should have, buy whatever make you are happy with.

You will need a piston wind back tool to fit them.

TVR keith

1,913 posts

252 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
And you need to slacken off the handbrake adjuster accesible through the O/S/R wheelarch

softtop

3,172 posts

277 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
Ribol said:
They are Cosworth Sierra 1985>1993 rear pads(all the same) the EBC number for them is DP2617(Greenstuff).
Won't get into the debate about what make you should have, buy whatever make you are happy with.

You will need a piston wind back tool to fit them.
What about opening the nipple and letting fluid flow out as you manually push the piston in?

TVR keith

1,913 posts

252 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
Playing with nipples!
Whatever turns you on woohoo!

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
softtop said:
Ribol said:
You will need a piston wind back tool to fit them.
What about opening the nipple and letting fluid flow out as you manually push the piston in?
The tool turns to screw the adjuster/piston back in.

Did mine the other day in minutes, no nipples undone, no handbrake cable undone. Wind pistons in, put new pads in, job done.

That Daddy

19,460 posts

251 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
The only reason you would have to release the handbrake cables to wind the pistons back is because the cable is over adjusted,this makes for a poor handbrake,before you put the wheels back on make sure the levers are back on the stops when the handbrake is released,you will have quite a high handbrake travel till the pads bed-in however,fitting is as Ribol suggested.

Ribol

11,995 posts

288 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
That Daddy said:
The only reason you would have to release the handbrake cables to wind the pistons back is because the cable is over adjusted
yes

Hey, TD, whilst I have your attention, you must have some cr@p round you place:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
you may want to take the res. cap off and also make sure its not over full and some fluid with get push back into the res.

That Daddy

19,460 posts

251 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
TVRleigh said:
you may want to take the res. cap off and also make sure its not over full and some fluid with get push back into the res.
Good point TVRleighyes,thats why its sometimes easier to release the nipples when you wind back the pistons or you can syringe the excess from the master cylinder res.

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
Problem with releasing the nipple you can get air in. and you need to bleep the system, but that's not a bad idea anyway as you have the access at the time, but is not 100% required.

GreenV8S

31,025 posts

314 months

Friday 17th August 2007
quotequote all
The reservoir overflowing won't be a problem unless somebody has been topping the fluid up as the pads wear down, which you shouldn't do. Remember to seat the pads on each corner as you go round by pumping the pedal until it goes firm.