Stripping RV8 bottom end

[Chassis 33]

Is there a correct order for loosening the main bearing caps when stripping the bottom end of the RV8, similar to the order for cylinder head bolts?

Regards
Iain

[Boosted LS1]

I don't think it matters but if you want to be picky you could untorque them in reverse perhaps in 3 stages

Boosted.

[Chassis 33]

Cheers Mike. Thisis te first engine I've stripped with the intention of putting it back together so I'm a little nervous about getting it right, but it will be a good opportunity to learn!

Regards
Iain

[Boosted LS1]

Chassis 33 said:

Cheers Mike. Thisis te first engine I've stripped with the intention of putting it back together so I'm a little nervous about getting it right, but it will be a good opportunity to learn!

Regards
Iain

If you get stuck give me a shout. Pay particular attention to the con rods and note the dimples on the side of the rods and on the caps. You don't want to get them jumbled up.

[K13 WJD]

i cant see any logical reason for there being any order........

The head is pulled down in order to stop it "walking" on the gasket.....

I always start undoing from flywheel side......Then take the bolts, and poke them through a shoebox, numbered. just for future reference should you have a problem. just force of habit i guess

[stevieturbo]

K13 WJD said:

i cant see any logical reason for there being any order........

Just because you cant, doesnt mean there isnt.


The blatantly obvious one is to prevent distortion whilst tightening it down. Its a big lump of metal, and needs tightened down evenly so it doesnt twist.

[K13 WJD]

stevieturbo said:

K13 WJD said:

i cant see any logical reason for there being any order........

Just because you cant, doesnt mean there isnt.


The blatantly obvious one is to prevent distortion whilst tightening it down. Its a big lump of metal, and needs tightened down evenly so it doesnt twist.

Reading back to the orig. question....

Chassis 33 said:

Is there a correct order for loosening the main bearing caps when stripping the bottom end of the RV8, similar to the order for cylinder head bolts?

Regards
Iain

Think were both right here.....you wont twist a crank un-doing it !!!!

[stevieturbo]

K13 WJD said:

stevieturbo said:

K13 WJD said:

i cant see any logical reason for there being any order........

Just because you cant, doesnt mean there isnt.


The blatantly obvious one is to prevent distortion whilst tightening it down. Its a big lump of metal, and needs tightened down evenly so it doesnt twist.

Reading back to the orig. question....

Chassis 33 said:

Is there a correct order for loosening the main bearing caps when stripping the bottom end of the RV8, similar to the order for cylinder head bolts?

Regards
Iain

Think were both right here.....you wont twist a crank un-doing it !!!!

I responded to your comment about head gasket. Nowhere did I mention cranks, or mains despite the original posts reference to mains.

So you are not right...you must use a sequence when undoing, and re-torqueing the head.

Mains dont matter.

[K13 WJD]

ARRRGGHHHH....thats what i stated.

Look back at the topic....i said that there's no logical reason for a sequence ( for mains )

then stated one of the reasons behind a head being tightened down in sequence, and stages.

Nothing so simple it can't be miss-understood.


So, in topic. take the ruddy end caps off any way you like.........

[Steve_D]

It's quite simple, you undo the bolts (In any order) on one bearing cap. Take the cap off and examine the shells. You then say "sh1t I hope none of the others look worse than this or I'm looking at a crank regrind".

Steve

[Boosted LS1]

I would undo mains and head bolts in reverse order to how they were torqued assuming they were torqued in a particular sequence. With heads it's obvious that you don't want to distort the head itself. With mains you don't want to distort the block. That said, I can't recall if there is a torque sequence for the rover but you could start in the middle and untorque lengthways and diagonally much the same as for a cylinder head.

Boosted.

[That Daddy]

Boosted LS1 said:

I would undo mains and head bolts in reverse order to how they were torqued assuming they were torqued in a particular sequence. With heads it's obvious that you don't want to distort the head itself. With mains you don't want to distort the block. That said, I can't recall if there is a torque sequence for the rover but you could start in the middle and untorque lengthways and diagonally much the same as for a cylinder head.

Boosted.

I would agree with this onewhy take a chance

[rev-erend]

Now if we were talking about the head.. I could see a good reason to get argumentative.. but the crank FFS..

Sure un-do them it pairs..

If you ever spin it .. without pistons and flywheel ( with oiled bearins) you can see how easily its spins when torqued up..

It should move easily .. else you have a bi problem..

You can really un-do in any order.. but the crutial bit is it's heavy FFS .. and take care with it ..

[stevieturbo]

I did actually have a twisted Rover block once....also had a dodgy liner.


God knows how the block got twisted !, but when torqued up, you needed a 2ft breaker bar to turn the crank over lol.

I decided it...built it anyway, only to discover a liner was leaking coolant !

Almost invisible hairline crack.

Damn Rover engines. Thankfully I dont have that problem anymore

[K13 WJD]

i did a built like that once.....Got everything bottom end wise, lubed up, torqed, and ready to roll.....went to turn it over a few times, using a ratchet. no chance.......So used a Power bar....was tight as a nuns vagina.

So, after some investigation, it was a small peice of grit, on a big end bearing. i was amazed that something so small could cause it to be so tight.

God knows how it got there.....

Anyway, a faulty timing belt killed that engine !

[Boosted LS1]

It pays to rotate the engine every time you tighten up a main bearing or rod cap then you know which one may be at fault Saves on time and frustration.

Boosted.

[rev-erend]

RV8's don't have timing belts .. so you definately went wrong somewhere..

[Chassis 33]

FWIW I broke load on the centre cap bolts then worked out in a figure of 8 fashion to the outer bearing shells then removed the bolts from the centre out in the pattern. Whether it saved the crank/block from doing silly things or just made me feel better that I'd tried to do something to help the dismantling who knows.

Regards
Iain

[K13 WJD]

rev-erend said:

RV8's don't have timing belts .. so you definately went wrong somewhere..

i didnt say it was a RV8 did i ?????

It was a one off 2.0 mistibishi starion engine !

[That Daddy]

K13 WJD said:

i did a built like that once.....Got everything bottom end wise, lubed up, torqed, and ready to roll.....went to turn it over a few times, using a ratchet. no chance.......So used a Power bar....was tight as a nuns vagina.

So, after some investigation, it was a small peice of grit, on a big end bearing. i was amazed that something so small could cause it to be so tight.

God knows how it got there.....

Anyway, a faulty timing belt killed that engine !

you dirty bertie engine builder you