MG Metro oil pressure

Author
Discussion

Fat Richie

Original Poster:

1,271 posts

219 months

Sunday 19th August 2007
quotequote all
Posting this to help out a techo-phobe mate of mine. He runs an 1987/88 MG Metro as a daily (not sure if that's an A+ engine or not) and he has a problem with his oil pressure light.

On start-up the oil light goes out quite quickly. It stays out okay when running around town but after a long sustained speed run when he gets back into town traffic the light comes on unless he keeps the revs at around 1200rpm. No rattles, squeaks or "expensive" noises, yet.

The engine has about 40-50k miles on it and he runs it on supermarket 20W50, additionally it's about 2k miles overdue for an oil change. I'd suspect the oil pump but could it be anything else?

wildoliver

8,789 posts

217 months

Sunday 19th August 2007
quotequote all
Start by changing the oil! And use some semi decent oil.

Snake the Sniper

2,544 posts

202 months

Sunday 19th August 2007
quotequote all
Regardless of the engine (as I can't remember when they changed) the normal factory oil light comes on at a very low PSI, often 3-5! At this point bearings start to go. As you say though, I'd go for the pump, but get it checked with a proper oil pressure gauge before doing anything, just to confirm it's not a dodgy sender.
If the pump is knackered, get it changed fairly soon, as it's the only thing keeping the bearings alive! Also worth getting the clearances checked if possible.
Final thought, there is enough oil in it isn't there? It could be that the level is just low enough to cause problems.

annodomini2

6,867 posts

252 months

Monday 20th August 2007
quotequote all
Check the oil pressure regulator, as well they have a habbit of sticking when old.

Best as has been said, get good pressure read out, should be around 22psi. It is A+ all metros were. (bar k-series of course.


Justin S

3,642 posts

262 months

Monday 20th August 2007
quotequote all
A fresh A series will put out 75 psi when running hot and 15 psi at tickover hot.Supermarket oil is not the best.All metro's as said before were A +series.They are visible by the front of the block having a square webbing across them.You could check the pressure with a gauge which will determine more than anything else.If it isn't a switch then it may be the centre main which is always the first to go.Try a filter change too,as supermarket oil that is not as detergent filled can cause sludge and the filter to gum up.

Fat Richie

Original Poster:

1,271 posts

219 months

Monday 20th August 2007
quotequote all
Many thanks guys - I'll pass your advice on.

Cooperman

4,428 posts

251 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2007
quotequote all
Check it with a gauge. It should be at least 20 psi when hot at 1000 rpm.
If it's less then it may need a bottom-end re-build. As the previous poster said, the centre main bearing is always vulnerable in the 1275 'A-Plus' unit as are the thrust bearings. Never, ever, start an A-series with the clutch pushed down unless you want to achieve a lot of thrust bearing wear.
Since what an old engine builder friend called 'weasel-piss' oil has been used, then a bottom-end rebuild will most probably be needed. The question is whether it's worth doing on an older Metro.
Always change the oil in Minis and Metros every 1500 to 2000 miles and use a really good 20/50 like Castrol, Duckhams, or equivalent.

K13 WJD

275 posts

201 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2007
quotequote all
correct on the 75 PSI hard worked pressure.

if the oil pump checks out ok, you need to be thinking about a blocked gallery......my 1380 16V hybrid a series did this... made a mess too !!!!!

I wouldnt be using cheap nasty oil either, if its being run hard, the turbo will be roasting the oil in minutes.

Check the oil pickup in the sump.....ha ha ha .

have fun