Newbie 996 Buyers Questions
Discussion
Hi all,
Right I have somewhere between £24k and £29k to spend on a new car.
The one I have my eye on is a 996 Cabriolet most in that bracket are Tiptronic with a few manuals. Most are 1999 or 2000 and the mileage varies. All the one I have looked at (online) have a full service history with Porsche and then specialist after this.
As it is my 1st step into the porker world I will be buying from a dealer and although it won't be a OPC (£££
I am going to go to a specialist like 911 Virgin, Sterlings etc.
So what should I look for and avoid?
How does the tiptronic drive? This won't be a trackday car but will be by daily drive so appreicate a manual will always win around the track but I'm after real world experiences.
So hit me with the views, tips, own experiences please!! I really am grateful for all the help I can get.
Thanks
Right I have somewhere between £24k and £29k to spend on a new car.
The one I have my eye on is a 996 Cabriolet most in that bracket are Tiptronic with a few manuals. Most are 1999 or 2000 and the mileage varies. All the one I have looked at (online) have a full service history with Porsche and then specialist after this.
As it is my 1st step into the porker world I will be buying from a dealer and although it won't be a OPC (£££
I am going to go to a specialist like 911 Virgin, Sterlings etc.So what should I look for and avoid?
How does the tiptronic drive? This won't be a trackday car but will be by daily drive so appreicate a manual will always win around the track but I'm after real world experiences.
So hit me with the views, tips, own experiences please!! I really am grateful for all the help I can get.
Thanks
cant help on the tip - i HAD to have a manual
Also - in your price bracket, you'll get much more from a private sale than an indy - you get a little buyers protection, but a 111 point check and OPC warranty will give you much more protection with much less cost.
The golden rule is, buy on condition - look at lots - the condition will vary, a lot, from car to car, ensure you get a good one with a Full history that's been looked after.
Also - in your price bracket, you'll get much more from a private sale than an indy - you get a little buyers protection, but a 111 point check and OPC warranty will give you much more protection with much less cost.
The golden rule is, buy on condition - look at lots - the condition will vary, a lot, from car to car, ensure you get a good one with a Full history that's been looked after.
moresauce said:
What is the story with the OPC warranty, so if I buy a 911 then take it to an OPC for a 111 point inspection and it passes or has the faults rectified then I can buy a OPC warranty?
Any idea on cost for inspection and warranty?
Yes thats correct. Basically an inspection costs £210 and the warranty should it pass is £895.Any idea on cost for inspection and warranty?
I totally agree with Fidgits...buy on condition, otherwise you run the risk of putting a deposit on one car and then seeing a better one later with lower miles and a better spec and in better condition at around the same price. Then you lose the deposit
Can't think who that would be.......boo hoo
Can't think who that would be.......boo hoo
You have the choice of Carrera or Carrera 4. Carrera 4 has 4 wheel drive (most of the time only 5% is transferred to the front wheels but can be up to 40%)In order to make room for the 4 wheel-drive hardware, The C4 had to be re-engineered from the windscreen forward. Front suspension was tilted to the rear to make room for the driveshafts, although under the front boot was reduced from 130 litres to 100 litres.
The C4 weighs 55kg more than the Carrera, but its superior traction off the line means that the C4 is just as quick in a straight line. Weight balance is almost identical to the Carrera, 40/60 front/rear for the C4 compared to 38/62 for the Carrera.
The C4 came as stanard with Porsche Stability management (PSM). This traction control system groups together a series of safety devices (including traction control, anti-slip control and Automatic Brake Differential– ABD) that had in the past worked independently of each other. Traction control now communicates with ABS and a brake differential control to create a system that can brake each wheel individually.
Visually the differences between the Carrera and C4 are limited to ‘Carrera 4’ badging, titanium
coloured callipers on the C4 (the Carrera has black items) and black wheel centres on new-design 17-
inch alloys.
In 2000 Porsche also upgraded the Carrera with the C4’s drive-by-wire electronic throttle mechanism
(E-Gas) and improved engine management (Motronic 7.2). This makes retrofitting of cruise control a lot easier.
If you don't want/need the benefits of 4 wheel drive (often associated with slightly heavier steering -less feel, worse fuel economy, and greater tyre wear) in MY2000 PSM became an option on the Carrera, so look out for that if you think you'd like it.
As for things to look out for during an inspection,
Front bumper
Look in the air ducts at the front, and check the radiators. Look for an accumulation of debris in the corners, which can soak up water and rot the radiators.
Unclip the front carpet trim (2 black plastic stud nuts and 2 trim studs) and peel back the carpet. Look for panel damage or replacement panels that might indicate a front end impact. Note
that the sealant used at the factory on panel joints is a light caramel colour.
Luggage Compartment
The C2 comes with an inflated space-saver spare wheel, stored vertically in the front compartment. On C4 versions it is deflated -under the floor carpet, and should come with a compressor to
inflate it. There should also be a jack and basic toolkit. Make sure the toolkit contains a towing eye and the locking wheel nut key.
Door Latches
The door latches on the ‘B’ pillar can move slightly, causing the paint to crack and corrosion can set in. A black plastic spacer was introduced to solve this problem in 2000. Note that Porsche will
not rectify any rust in this area under the 10-year anti-corrosion warranty.
Cabriolet Top
The rear plastic screen is prone to cracking across the middle unless the ‘Boxster chop’ is performed (while the top is half-way though it’s drop, run your hand horizontally across the rear window to ensure an even fold). A replacement plastic window will cost approximately £250 and a replacement hood around £750 fitted (non-Porsche)
Rear Spoiler
The rear wing should automatically deploy at 75mph and retract again at 37mph to aid cooling, and down-force. It can also be activated by means of a switch on the fuse box cover in the
driver’s footwell. Make sure the spoiler works correctly. The rear wall is prone to splitting at the folds, but a new wall can be fitted for around £80. If the car has a fixed rear spoiler (eg GT3 bodykit, Porsche Aerokit etc) the rear spoiler raising mechanism is disabled.
Interior
Climate Control Make sure to check that the air-con blasts freezing cold air at its
lowest setting. Air conditioning problems can be expensive to rectify. Common faults are corroded radiator matrices (c£500) or the filter/dryer canister (c£150).
Doors & Windows
The doors should open and close smoothly, and the windows should drop a few millimetres as you lift the door handles. If the windows do not drop as you open the doors, the culprit is likely to
be a micro-switch in the door switch assembly that may need replacement (c£125).
Windscreen
The windscreen of all 996s are prone to delamination (milky white effect) in the corner of the ‘A’ pillars and bonnet. This can often be replaced courtesy of your insurance company, subject to
paying the excess (c£50).
Ignition Switch
It is not uncommon for the ignition switch to fail. The plastic barrel can crack, preventing the switch from returning to its 1st position once the engine has started. Also the contacts in the
switch can break, causing strange electrical faults. (c£22 part cost).
Centre Console Storage Bin
The hinge on the console is prone to breaking, but there is an easy and cheap solution which costs around £18 in parts.Check on PCGB website or Renntech for diagrams and a DIY.
Engine
Oil Pressure When hot:At least 1.0 bar at idle 4.0 to 5.0 at 4000+ rpm
Temperature When hot: slightly over the 80°C marker
Oil Filler Cap & Tube
Don’t be alarmed by a light coating of mayonnaise coloured residue in the cap or tube. It is quite common, and usually worse in cold weather, and if the car has been used on short runs.
Coolant & Oil
Look for traces of oily residue in the cooling water. This could be a sign of a leaking head gasket, or much worse. Walk away from the car and don’t look back! Also look at the oil on the dipstick. Any traces of white foamy substance (water/oil emulsion) and you should also start walking!
Coolant Expansion Tank
These are prone to cracking and pinholes. Look for staining of the engine bay panels below the tank. Not too expensive to replace at around £250.
Idle Should be a steady 680-700 rpm when warm. Some 996’s suffer from a slightly lumpy idle, particularly when cold. A severely erratic idle could be caused by a fault in a Variocam solenoid
(c£400), MAF sensor (c£150) or Ignition Coil Pack (c£30 each)
Rear Main Oil Seal (many of you can fall asleep at this point!)
This is a common problem with the M96 engine. It first shows itself by a dampening of the area at the bottom of the engine at the joint between the crankcase and transmission.
In virtually ALL cases the worst that will happen will be the odd drip of oil on the garage floor. Most owners will wait until the clutch needs changing and replace the seal at that time. Multiple
failures have been recorded, but they are rare. Tiptronics appear to be less prone, but not immune, to the problem. Cost when doing a clutch change is an extra £20 or so, otherwise it is a
£300-400 job.In terms of numbers a survey conducted by PCGB in 2004 for the Boxster (same
engine block as 996), 24% of respondents reported failure(s). Although many iterations of the seal have been introduced by Porsche, the problem has still not
been resolved even on the current 997 model.
Startup
Don’t be alarmed if there is a rattle at engine startup from cold.This often happens before pressure has built up in the hydraulic valve lifters. It should disappear within 5 seconds or so.
Occasionally, you may see a puff of oil smoke from the exhaust at startup. This is common, but should disappear after about 10 seconds, and should only happen infrequently, ie. Once in every
30-40 starts perhaps.
Transmissions
Manual Check for smooth operation and changes. Note that when cold the change from first to second gear can be slightly stiff, but this should disappear when warmed up. Listen for noises when
accelerating and on a trailing throttle. All parts are now available for manual transmissions, so they can be repaired rather than replaced (as was the case until December 2006).
Tiptronic Check for smooth changes (up and down) when in automatic and tiptronic mode. Check both tip switches on the steering wheel are working, and also check the tiptronic display in the instrument cluster operates correctly. At present, internal transmission parts
are not available from Porsche, but some independent specialists can source them and repair rather than replace the transmission.Tiptronic transmission has proved to be very reliable.
Running Gear
Suspension A clonking sound when driving slowly over bumps may be heard. This usually means a worn anti-roll-bar drop-link (c£30 each). Creaking sounds often indicate a worn lower suspension control
arm (c£150 each). Brakes The brake disks are prone to corrosion, particularly the inside faces of the rear discs. It is surprising how bad they can get without being able to feel anything unusual through the brake pedal. (c£120/pair plus fitting)
Tyres
Tyres should be worn evenly across the tread. Tyres should be of matching brand across axle (preferably all four corners) and should all be of equal ‘N’ rating. Uneven wear suggests geometry
problems (c£150-250 for a 4-wheel alignment). Tyres – 17inch F/R cost from £110/£130, and the optional 18inch F/R cost from £120/£180.
Documentation
VIN Number
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is located in three places: behind the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, on the driver side door-catch panel and on the front bulkhead in the luggage compartment to the left of the battery. Do a search for 'Scouser's' VIn decoder on Renntech.
VIL Number
The VIL (Vehicle Identification Label) can be found in 2 places: A white sticker under the bonnet and a white sticker found in the‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet. The country code will
signify for which market the car was made, and C16 signifies the UK. A missing VIL under the bonnet could suggest the car was involved in an accident requiring the bonnet to be replaced. A missing VIL from the ‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet could suggest a duplicate booklet and/or a personal import.
Service History
A full service history is very important when considering a 996. Expect the car to be serviced at an OPC for the first 2-3 years (the warranty runs for 2 years), thereafter any well known independent
will do. The 996 needs to be serviced every year or 12,000 miles for the cars you are considering.
YOu don't need to have them serviced at an OPC to maintain the warranty.
Thats pretty much most of it. As advised I'd take the 111 inspection and get the warranty for peace of mind. It includes Europe Wide assist, and has no excess.
If you want any more details PM me, I have jointly written a buyer's guide for PCGB with technical specs and model history and things to look out for in more detail.
Good luck.
Aaaand breath!
The C4 weighs 55kg more than the Carrera, but its superior traction off the line means that the C4 is just as quick in a straight line. Weight balance is almost identical to the Carrera, 40/60 front/rear for the C4 compared to 38/62 for the Carrera.
The C4 came as stanard with Porsche Stability management (PSM). This traction control system groups together a series of safety devices (including traction control, anti-slip control and Automatic Brake Differential– ABD) that had in the past worked independently of each other. Traction control now communicates with ABS and a brake differential control to create a system that can brake each wheel individually.
Visually the differences between the Carrera and C4 are limited to ‘Carrera 4’ badging, titanium
coloured callipers on the C4 (the Carrera has black items) and black wheel centres on new-design 17-
inch alloys.
In 2000 Porsche also upgraded the Carrera with the C4’s drive-by-wire electronic throttle mechanism
(E-Gas) and improved engine management (Motronic 7.2). This makes retrofitting of cruise control a lot easier.
If you don't want/need the benefits of 4 wheel drive (often associated with slightly heavier steering -less feel, worse fuel economy, and greater tyre wear) in MY2000 PSM became an option on the Carrera, so look out for that if you think you'd like it.
As for things to look out for during an inspection,
Front bumper
Look in the air ducts at the front, and check the radiators. Look for an accumulation of debris in the corners, which can soak up water and rot the radiators.
Unclip the front carpet trim (2 black plastic stud nuts and 2 trim studs) and peel back the carpet. Look for panel damage or replacement panels that might indicate a front end impact. Note
that the sealant used at the factory on panel joints is a light caramel colour.
Luggage Compartment
The C2 comes with an inflated space-saver spare wheel, stored vertically in the front compartment. On C4 versions it is deflated -under the floor carpet, and should come with a compressor to
inflate it. There should also be a jack and basic toolkit. Make sure the toolkit contains a towing eye and the locking wheel nut key.
Door Latches
The door latches on the ‘B’ pillar can move slightly, causing the paint to crack and corrosion can set in. A black plastic spacer was introduced to solve this problem in 2000. Note that Porsche will
not rectify any rust in this area under the 10-year anti-corrosion warranty.
Cabriolet Top
The rear plastic screen is prone to cracking across the middle unless the ‘Boxster chop’ is performed (while the top is half-way though it’s drop, run your hand horizontally across the rear window to ensure an even fold). A replacement plastic window will cost approximately £250 and a replacement hood around £750 fitted (non-Porsche)
Rear Spoiler
The rear wing should automatically deploy at 75mph and retract again at 37mph to aid cooling, and down-force. It can also be activated by means of a switch on the fuse box cover in the
driver’s footwell. Make sure the spoiler works correctly. The rear wall is prone to splitting at the folds, but a new wall can be fitted for around £80. If the car has a fixed rear spoiler (eg GT3 bodykit, Porsche Aerokit etc) the rear spoiler raising mechanism is disabled.
Interior
Climate Control Make sure to check that the air-con blasts freezing cold air at its
lowest setting. Air conditioning problems can be expensive to rectify. Common faults are corroded radiator matrices (c£500) or the filter/dryer canister (c£150).
Doors & Windows
The doors should open and close smoothly, and the windows should drop a few millimetres as you lift the door handles. If the windows do not drop as you open the doors, the culprit is likely to
be a micro-switch in the door switch assembly that may need replacement (c£125).
Windscreen
The windscreen of all 996s are prone to delamination (milky white effect) in the corner of the ‘A’ pillars and bonnet. This can often be replaced courtesy of your insurance company, subject to
paying the excess (c£50).
Ignition Switch
It is not uncommon for the ignition switch to fail. The plastic barrel can crack, preventing the switch from returning to its 1st position once the engine has started. Also the contacts in the
switch can break, causing strange electrical faults. (c£22 part cost).
Centre Console Storage Bin
The hinge on the console is prone to breaking, but there is an easy and cheap solution which costs around £18 in parts.Check on PCGB website or Renntech for diagrams and a DIY.
Engine
Oil Pressure When hot:At least 1.0 bar at idle 4.0 to 5.0 at 4000+ rpm
Temperature When hot: slightly over the 80°C marker
Oil Filler Cap & Tube
Don’t be alarmed by a light coating of mayonnaise coloured residue in the cap or tube. It is quite common, and usually worse in cold weather, and if the car has been used on short runs.
Coolant & Oil
Look for traces of oily residue in the cooling water. This could be a sign of a leaking head gasket, or much worse. Walk away from the car and don’t look back! Also look at the oil on the dipstick. Any traces of white foamy substance (water/oil emulsion) and you should also start walking!
Coolant Expansion Tank
These are prone to cracking and pinholes. Look for staining of the engine bay panels below the tank. Not too expensive to replace at around £250.
Idle Should be a steady 680-700 rpm when warm. Some 996’s suffer from a slightly lumpy idle, particularly when cold. A severely erratic idle could be caused by a fault in a Variocam solenoid
(c£400), MAF sensor (c£150) or Ignition Coil Pack (c£30 each)
Rear Main Oil Seal (many of you can fall asleep at this point!)
This is a common problem with the M96 engine. It first shows itself by a dampening of the area at the bottom of the engine at the joint between the crankcase and transmission.
In virtually ALL cases the worst that will happen will be the odd drip of oil on the garage floor. Most owners will wait until the clutch needs changing and replace the seal at that time. Multiple
failures have been recorded, but they are rare. Tiptronics appear to be less prone, but not immune, to the problem. Cost when doing a clutch change is an extra £20 or so, otherwise it is a
£300-400 job.In terms of numbers a survey conducted by PCGB in 2004 for the Boxster (same
engine block as 996), 24% of respondents reported failure(s). Although many iterations of the seal have been introduced by Porsche, the problem has still not
been resolved even on the current 997 model.
Startup
Don’t be alarmed if there is a rattle at engine startup from cold.This often happens before pressure has built up in the hydraulic valve lifters. It should disappear within 5 seconds or so.
Occasionally, you may see a puff of oil smoke from the exhaust at startup. This is common, but should disappear after about 10 seconds, and should only happen infrequently, ie. Once in every
30-40 starts perhaps.
Transmissions
Manual Check for smooth operation and changes. Note that when cold the change from first to second gear can be slightly stiff, but this should disappear when warmed up. Listen for noises when
accelerating and on a trailing throttle. All parts are now available for manual transmissions, so they can be repaired rather than replaced (as was the case until December 2006).
Tiptronic Check for smooth changes (up and down) when in automatic and tiptronic mode. Check both tip switches on the steering wheel are working, and also check the tiptronic display in the instrument cluster operates correctly. At present, internal transmission parts
are not available from Porsche, but some independent specialists can source them and repair rather than replace the transmission.Tiptronic transmission has proved to be very reliable.
Running Gear
Suspension A clonking sound when driving slowly over bumps may be heard. This usually means a worn anti-roll-bar drop-link (c£30 each). Creaking sounds often indicate a worn lower suspension control
arm (c£150 each). Brakes The brake disks are prone to corrosion, particularly the inside faces of the rear discs. It is surprising how bad they can get without being able to feel anything unusual through the brake pedal. (c£120/pair plus fitting)
Tyres
Tyres should be worn evenly across the tread. Tyres should be of matching brand across axle (preferably all four corners) and should all be of equal ‘N’ rating. Uneven wear suggests geometry
problems (c£150-250 for a 4-wheel alignment). Tyres – 17inch F/R cost from £110/£130, and the optional 18inch F/R cost from £120/£180.
Documentation
VIN Number
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is located in three places: behind the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, on the driver side door-catch panel and on the front bulkhead in the luggage compartment to the left of the battery. Do a search for 'Scouser's' VIn decoder on Renntech.
VIL Number
The VIL (Vehicle Identification Label) can be found in 2 places: A white sticker under the bonnet and a white sticker found in the‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet. The country code will
signify for which market the car was made, and C16 signifies the UK. A missing VIL under the bonnet could suggest the car was involved in an accident requiring the bonnet to be replaced. A missing VIL from the ‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet could suggest a duplicate booklet and/or a personal import.
Service History
A full service history is very important when considering a 996. Expect the car to be serviced at an OPC for the first 2-3 years (the warranty runs for 2 years), thereafter any well known independent
will do. The 996 needs to be serviced every year or 12,000 miles for the cars you are considering.
YOu don't need to have them serviced at an OPC to maintain the warranty.
Thats pretty much most of it. As advised I'd take the 111 inspection and get the warranty for peace of mind. It includes Europe Wide assist, and has no excess.
If you want any more details PM me, I have jointly written a buyer's guide for PCGB with technical specs and model history and things to look out for in more detail.
Good luck.
Aaaand breath!
korma007 said:
moresauce said:
What is the story with the OPC warranty, so if I buy a 911 then take it to an OPC for a 111 point inspection and it passes or has the faults rectified then I can buy a OPC warranty?
Any idea on cost for inspection and warranty?
Yes thats correct. Basically an inspection costs £210 and the warranty should it pass is £895.Any idea on cost for inspection and warranty?
Mousem40 said:
You have the choice of Carrera or Carrera 4. Carrera 4 has 4 wheel drive (most of the time only 5% is transferred to the front wheels but can be up to 40%)In order to make room for the 4 wheel-drive hardware, The C4 had to be re-engineered from the windscreen forward. Front suspension was tilted to the rear to make room for the driveshafts, although under the front boot was reduced from 130 litres to 100 litres.
The C4 weighs 55kg more than the Carrera, but its superior traction off the line means that the C4 is just as quick in a straight line. Weight balance is almost identical to the Carrera, 40/60 front/rear for the C4 compared to 38/62 for the Carrera.
The C4 came as stanard with Porsche Stability management (PSM). This traction control system groups together a series of safety devices (including traction control, anti-slip control and Automatic Brake Differential– ABD) that had in the past worked independently of each other. Traction control now communicates with ABS and a brake differential control to create a system that can brake each wheel individually.
Visually the differences between the Carrera and C4 are limited to ‘Carrera 4’ badging, titanium
coloured callipers on the C4 (the Carrera has black items) and black wheel centres on new-design 17-
inch alloys.
In 2000 Porsche also upgraded the Carrera with the C4’s drive-by-wire electronic throttle mechanism
(E-Gas) and improved engine management (Motronic 7.2). This makes retrofitting of cruise control a lot easier.
If you don't want/need the benefits of 4 wheel drive (often associated with slightly heavier steering -less feel, worse fuel economy, and greater tyre wear) in MY2000 PSM became an option on the Carrera, so look out for that if you think you'd like it.
As for things to look out for during an inspection,
Front bumper
Look in the air ducts at the front, and check the radiators. Look for an accumulation of debris in the corners, which can soak up water and rot the radiators.
Unclip the front carpet trim (2 black plastic stud nuts and 2 trim studs) and peel back the carpet. Look for panel damage or replacement panels that might indicate a front end impact. Note
that the sealant used at the factory on panel joints is a light caramel colour.
Luggage Compartment
The C2 comes with an inflated space-saver spare wheel, stored vertically in the front compartment. On C4 versions it is deflated -under the floor carpet, and should come with a compressor to
inflate it. There should also be a jack and basic toolkit. Make sure the toolkit contains a towing eye and the locking wheel nut key.
Door Latches
The door latches on the ‘B’ pillar can move slightly, causing the paint to crack and corrosion can set in. A black plastic spacer was introduced to solve this problem in 2000. Note that Porsche will
not rectify any rust in this area under the 10-year anti-corrosion warranty.
Cabriolet Top
The rear plastic screen is prone to cracking across the middle unless the ‘Boxster chop’ is performed (while the top is half-way though it’s drop, run your hand horizontally across the rear window to ensure an even fold). A replacement plastic window will cost approximately £250 and a replacement hood around £750 fitted (non-Porsche)
Rear Spoiler
The rear wing should automatically deploy at 75mph and retract again at 37mph to aid cooling, and down-force. It can also be activated by means of a switch on the fuse box cover in the
driver’s footwell. Make sure the spoiler works correctly. The rear wall is prone to splitting at the folds, but a new wall can be fitted for around £80. If the car has a fixed rear spoiler (eg GT3 bodykit, Porsche Aerokit etc) the rear spoiler raising mechanism is disabled.
Interior
Climate Control Make sure to check that the air-con blasts freezing cold air at its
lowest setting. Air conditioning problems can be expensive to rectify. Common faults are corroded radiator matrices (c£500) or the filter/dryer canister (c£150).
Doors & Windows
The doors should open and close smoothly, and the windows should drop a few millimetres as you lift the door handles. If the windows do not drop as you open the doors, the culprit is likely to
be a micro-switch in the door switch assembly that may need replacement (c£125).
Windscreen
The windscreen of all 996s are prone to delamination (milky white effect) in the corner of the ‘A’ pillars and bonnet. This can often be replaced courtesy of your insurance company, subject to
paying the excess (c£50).
Ignition Switch
It is not uncommon for the ignition switch to fail. The plastic barrel can crack, preventing the switch from returning to its 1st position once the engine has started. Also the contacts in the
switch can break, causing strange electrical faults. (c£22 part cost).
Centre Console Storage Bin
The hinge on the console is prone to breaking, but there is an easy and cheap solution which costs around £18 in parts.Check on PCGB website or Renntech for diagrams and a DIY.
Engine
Oil Pressure When hot:At least 1.0 bar at idle 4.0 to 5.0 at 4000+ rpm
Temperature When hot: slightly over the 80°C marker
Oil Filler Cap & Tube
Don’t be alarmed by a light coating of mayonnaise coloured residue in the cap or tube. It is quite common, and usually worse in cold weather, and if the car has been used on short runs.
Coolant & Oil
Look for traces of oily residue in the cooling water. This could be a sign of a leaking head gasket, or much worse. Walk away from the car and don’t look back! Also look at the oil on the dipstick. Any traces of white foamy substance (water/oil emulsion) and you should also start walking!
Coolant Expansion Tank
These are prone to cracking and pinholes. Look for staining of the engine bay panels below the tank. Not too expensive to replace at around £250.
Idle Should be a steady 680-700 rpm when warm. Some 996’s suffer from a slightly lumpy idle, particularly when cold. A severely erratic idle could be caused by a fault in a Variocam solenoid
(c£400), MAF sensor (c£150) or Ignition Coil Pack (c£30 each)
Rear Main Oil Seal (many of you can fall asleep at this point!)
This is a common problem with the M96 engine. It first shows itself by a dampening of the area at the bottom of the engine at the joint between the crankcase and transmission.
In virtually ALL cases the worst that will happen will be the odd drip of oil on the garage floor. Most owners will wait until the clutch needs changing and replace the seal at that time. Multiple
failures have been recorded, but they are rare. Tiptronics appear to be less prone, but not immune, to the problem. Cost when doing a clutch change is an extra £20 or so, otherwise it is a
£300-400 job.In terms of numbers a survey conducted by PCGB in 2004 for the Boxster (same
engine block as 996), 24% of respondents reported failure(s). Although many iterations of the seal have been introduced by Porsche, the problem has still not
been resolved even on the current 997 model.
Startup
Don’t be alarmed if there is a rattle at engine startup from cold.This often happens before pressure has built up in the hydraulic valve lifters. It should disappear within 5 seconds or so.
Occasionally, you may see a puff of oil smoke from the exhaust at startup. This is common, but should disappear after about 10 seconds, and should only happen infrequently, ie. Once in every
30-40 starts perhaps.
Transmissions
Manual Check for smooth operation and changes. Note that when cold the change from first to second gear can be slightly stiff, but this should disappear when warmed up. Listen for noises when
accelerating and on a trailing throttle. All parts are now available for manual transmissions, so they can be repaired rather than replaced (as was the case until December 2006).
Tiptronic Check for smooth changes (up and down) when in automatic and tiptronic mode. Check both tip switches on the steering wheel are working, and also check the tiptronic display in the instrument cluster operates correctly. At present, internal transmission parts
are not available from Porsche, but some independent specialists can source them and repair rather than replace the transmission.Tiptronic transmission has proved to be very reliable.
Running Gear
Suspension A clonking sound when driving slowly over bumps may be heard. This usually means a worn anti-roll-bar drop-link (c£30 each). Creaking sounds often indicate a worn lower suspension control
arm (c£150 each). Brakes The brake disks are prone to corrosion, particularly the inside faces of the rear discs. It is surprising how bad they can get without being able to feel anything unusual through the brake pedal. (c£120/pair plus fitting)
Tyres
Tyres should be worn evenly across the tread. Tyres should be of matching brand across axle (preferably all four corners) and should all be of equal ‘N’ rating. Uneven wear suggests geometry
problems (c£150-250 for a 4-wheel alignment). Tyres – 17inch F/R cost from £110/£130, and the optional 18inch F/R cost from £120/£180.
Documentation
VIN Number
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is located in three places: behind the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, on the driver side door-catch panel and on the front bulkhead in the luggage compartment to the left of the battery. Do a search for 'Scouser's' VIn decoder on Renntech.
VIL Number
The VIL (Vehicle Identification Label) can be found in 2 places: A white sticker under the bonnet and a white sticker found in the‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet. The country code will
signify for which market the car was made, and C16 signifies the UK. A missing VIL under the bonnet could suggest the car was involved in an accident requiring the bonnet to be replaced. A missing VIL from the ‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet could suggest a duplicate booklet and/or a personal import.
Service History
A full service history is very important when considering a 996. Expect the car to be serviced at an OPC for the first 2-3 years (the warranty runs for 2 years), thereafter any well known independent
will do. The 996 needs to be serviced every year or 12,000 miles for the cars you are considering.
YOu don't need to have them serviced at an OPC to maintain the warranty.
Thats pretty much most of it. As advised I'd take the 111 inspection and get the warranty for peace of mind. It includes Europe Wide assist, and has no excess.
If you want any more details PM me, I have jointly written a buyer's guide for PCGB with technical specs and model history and things to look out for in more detail.
Good luck.
Aaaand breath!
Thanks for a superb post! The C4 weighs 55kg more than the Carrera, but its superior traction off the line means that the C4 is just as quick in a straight line. Weight balance is almost identical to the Carrera, 40/60 front/rear for the C4 compared to 38/62 for the Carrera.
The C4 came as stanard with Porsche Stability management (PSM). This traction control system groups together a series of safety devices (including traction control, anti-slip control and Automatic Brake Differential– ABD) that had in the past worked independently of each other. Traction control now communicates with ABS and a brake differential control to create a system that can brake each wheel individually.
Visually the differences between the Carrera and C4 are limited to ‘Carrera 4’ badging, titanium
coloured callipers on the C4 (the Carrera has black items) and black wheel centres on new-design 17-
inch alloys.
In 2000 Porsche also upgraded the Carrera with the C4’s drive-by-wire electronic throttle mechanism
(E-Gas) and improved engine management (Motronic 7.2). This makes retrofitting of cruise control a lot easier.
If you don't want/need the benefits of 4 wheel drive (often associated with slightly heavier steering -less feel, worse fuel economy, and greater tyre wear) in MY2000 PSM became an option on the Carrera, so look out for that if you think you'd like it.
As for things to look out for during an inspection,
Front bumper
Look in the air ducts at the front, and check the radiators. Look for an accumulation of debris in the corners, which can soak up water and rot the radiators.
Unclip the front carpet trim (2 black plastic stud nuts and 2 trim studs) and peel back the carpet. Look for panel damage or replacement panels that might indicate a front end impact. Note
that the sealant used at the factory on panel joints is a light caramel colour.
Luggage Compartment
The C2 comes with an inflated space-saver spare wheel, stored vertically in the front compartment. On C4 versions it is deflated -under the floor carpet, and should come with a compressor to
inflate it. There should also be a jack and basic toolkit. Make sure the toolkit contains a towing eye and the locking wheel nut key.
Door Latches
The door latches on the ‘B’ pillar can move slightly, causing the paint to crack and corrosion can set in. A black plastic spacer was introduced to solve this problem in 2000. Note that Porsche will
not rectify any rust in this area under the 10-year anti-corrosion warranty.
Cabriolet Top
The rear plastic screen is prone to cracking across the middle unless the ‘Boxster chop’ is performed (while the top is half-way though it’s drop, run your hand horizontally across the rear window to ensure an even fold). A replacement plastic window will cost approximately £250 and a replacement hood around £750 fitted (non-Porsche)
Rear Spoiler
The rear wing should automatically deploy at 75mph and retract again at 37mph to aid cooling, and down-force. It can also be activated by means of a switch on the fuse box cover in the
driver’s footwell. Make sure the spoiler works correctly. The rear wall is prone to splitting at the folds, but a new wall can be fitted for around £80. If the car has a fixed rear spoiler (eg GT3 bodykit, Porsche Aerokit etc) the rear spoiler raising mechanism is disabled.
Interior
Climate Control Make sure to check that the air-con blasts freezing cold air at its
lowest setting. Air conditioning problems can be expensive to rectify. Common faults are corroded radiator matrices (c£500) or the filter/dryer canister (c£150).
Doors & Windows
The doors should open and close smoothly, and the windows should drop a few millimetres as you lift the door handles. If the windows do not drop as you open the doors, the culprit is likely to
be a micro-switch in the door switch assembly that may need replacement (c£125).
Windscreen
The windscreen of all 996s are prone to delamination (milky white effect) in the corner of the ‘A’ pillars and bonnet. This can often be replaced courtesy of your insurance company, subject to
paying the excess (c£50).
Ignition Switch
It is not uncommon for the ignition switch to fail. The plastic barrel can crack, preventing the switch from returning to its 1st position once the engine has started. Also the contacts in the
switch can break, causing strange electrical faults. (c£22 part cost).
Centre Console Storage Bin
The hinge on the console is prone to breaking, but there is an easy and cheap solution which costs around £18 in parts.Check on PCGB website or Renntech for diagrams and a DIY.
Engine
Oil Pressure When hot:At least 1.0 bar at idle 4.0 to 5.0 at 4000+ rpm
Temperature When hot: slightly over the 80°C marker
Oil Filler Cap & Tube
Don’t be alarmed by a light coating of mayonnaise coloured residue in the cap or tube. It is quite common, and usually worse in cold weather, and if the car has been used on short runs.
Coolant & Oil
Look for traces of oily residue in the cooling water. This could be a sign of a leaking head gasket, or much worse. Walk away from the car and don’t look back! Also look at the oil on the dipstick. Any traces of white foamy substance (water/oil emulsion) and you should also start walking!
Coolant Expansion Tank
These are prone to cracking and pinholes. Look for staining of the engine bay panels below the tank. Not too expensive to replace at around £250.
Idle Should be a steady 680-700 rpm when warm. Some 996’s suffer from a slightly lumpy idle, particularly when cold. A severely erratic idle could be caused by a fault in a Variocam solenoid
(c£400), MAF sensor (c£150) or Ignition Coil Pack (c£30 each)
Rear Main Oil Seal (many of you can fall asleep at this point!)
This is a common problem with the M96 engine. It first shows itself by a dampening of the area at the bottom of the engine at the joint between the crankcase and transmission.
In virtually ALL cases the worst that will happen will be the odd drip of oil on the garage floor. Most owners will wait until the clutch needs changing and replace the seal at that time. Multiple
failures have been recorded, but they are rare. Tiptronics appear to be less prone, but not immune, to the problem. Cost when doing a clutch change is an extra £20 or so, otherwise it is a
£300-400 job.In terms of numbers a survey conducted by PCGB in 2004 for the Boxster (same
engine block as 996), 24% of respondents reported failure(s). Although many iterations of the seal have been introduced by Porsche, the problem has still not
been resolved even on the current 997 model.
Startup
Don’t be alarmed if there is a rattle at engine startup from cold.This often happens before pressure has built up in the hydraulic valve lifters. It should disappear within 5 seconds or so.
Occasionally, you may see a puff of oil smoke from the exhaust at startup. This is common, but should disappear after about 10 seconds, and should only happen infrequently, ie. Once in every
30-40 starts perhaps.
Transmissions
Manual Check for smooth operation and changes. Note that when cold the change from first to second gear can be slightly stiff, but this should disappear when warmed up. Listen for noises when
accelerating and on a trailing throttle. All parts are now available for manual transmissions, so they can be repaired rather than replaced (as was the case until December 2006).
Tiptronic Check for smooth changes (up and down) when in automatic and tiptronic mode. Check both tip switches on the steering wheel are working, and also check the tiptronic display in the instrument cluster operates correctly. At present, internal transmission parts
are not available from Porsche, but some independent specialists can source them and repair rather than replace the transmission.Tiptronic transmission has proved to be very reliable.
Running Gear
Suspension A clonking sound when driving slowly over bumps may be heard. This usually means a worn anti-roll-bar drop-link (c£30 each). Creaking sounds often indicate a worn lower suspension control
arm (c£150 each). Brakes The brake disks are prone to corrosion, particularly the inside faces of the rear discs. It is surprising how bad they can get without being able to feel anything unusual through the brake pedal. (c£120/pair plus fitting)
Tyres
Tyres should be worn evenly across the tread. Tyres should be of matching brand across axle (preferably all four corners) and should all be of equal ‘N’ rating. Uneven wear suggests geometry
problems (c£150-250 for a 4-wheel alignment). Tyres – 17inch F/R cost from £110/£130, and the optional 18inch F/R cost from £120/£180.
Documentation
VIN Number
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is located in three places: behind the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, on the driver side door-catch panel and on the front bulkhead in the luggage compartment to the left of the battery. Do a search for 'Scouser's' VIn decoder on Renntech.
VIL Number
The VIL (Vehicle Identification Label) can be found in 2 places: A white sticker under the bonnet and a white sticker found in the‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet. The country code will
signify for which market the car was made, and C16 signifies the UK. A missing VIL under the bonnet could suggest the car was involved in an accident requiring the bonnet to be replaced. A missing VIL from the ‘Guarantee and Maintenance’ booklet could suggest a duplicate booklet and/or a personal import.
Service History
A full service history is very important when considering a 996. Expect the car to be serviced at an OPC for the first 2-3 years (the warranty runs for 2 years), thereafter any well known independent
will do. The 996 needs to be serviced every year or 12,000 miles for the cars you are considering.
YOu don't need to have them serviced at an OPC to maintain the warranty.
Thats pretty much most of it. As advised I'd take the 111 inspection and get the warranty for peace of mind. It includes Europe Wide assist, and has no excess.
If you want any more details PM me, I have jointly written a buyer's guide for PCGB with technical specs and model history and things to look out for in more detail.
Good luck.
Aaaand breath!
Here's my list of indepenedent dealers...
http://www.paragon.gb.com/sales/default.asp
http://www.rsjsportscars.co.uk/opt/rsj_opt.htm
http://www.cameronsportscars.co.uk/stock
http://www.camtune.com/CarSalesList.aspx
http://www.autobahn.co.uk/Autobahn_2005/pre_owned_...
http://www.stirlings.co.uk/showroom.htm
http://www.strasse.co.uk/cars.asp
http://www.specialistcarsltd.co.uk/porsche_sales/p...
http://www.eporsch.co.uk/0101for_sale.htm
http://www.seanlockyear.co.uk/GetDealer.do?did=127...
http://www.911box.co.uk/sales.asp?make=54
http://www.911heaven.net/porschestock.php
http://www.911virgin.com/stock.htm
http://www.autofarm.co.uk/sales/modern
http://www.nickwhalesportscars.com/
http://www.northway.co.uk/car_sales/car.asp?ModelN...
http://www.charlesivey.com/Porsche-Sales/
http://www.hartech.org/cars.html
http://www.portiacraft.com/
http://www.mcgurk.com/current.php?make=12
http://www.harbourcars.com/stock/index.html
http://www.dzd.co.uk/pc/viewCat_P.asp?idCategory=8...
http://www.pauldevyea.co.uk/sales.htm
http://www.cridfords.co.uk/showroom.asp?view=all
http://www.finlaygorham.com/showroom.cfm
http://www.imperials.co.uk/usedcars.php?dealer=153...
http://www.dovehousecars.com/stock.asp
http://sis.virtual-showroom.co.uk/(axhaqnvc3mzjf43...
http://www.gmundcars.com/website/for_sale.htm
http://www.billingecarsales.co.uk/StockList.aspx
http://www.thehairpincompany.co.uk/
http://www.romansofstalbans.co.uk/manufacturer/Por...
...have been perusing these for the last few months
http://www.paragon.gb.com/sales/default.asp
http://www.rsjsportscars.co.uk/opt/rsj_opt.htm
http://www.cameronsportscars.co.uk/stock
http://www.camtune.com/CarSalesList.aspx
http://www.autobahn.co.uk/Autobahn_2005/pre_owned_...
http://www.stirlings.co.uk/showroom.htm
http://www.strasse.co.uk/cars.asp
http://www.specialistcarsltd.co.uk/porsche_sales/p...
http://www.eporsch.co.uk/0101for_sale.htm
http://www.seanlockyear.co.uk/GetDealer.do?did=127...
http://www.911box.co.uk/sales.asp?make=54
http://www.911heaven.net/porschestock.php
http://www.911virgin.com/stock.htm
http://www.autofarm.co.uk/sales/modern
http://www.nickwhalesportscars.com/
http://www.northway.co.uk/car_sales/car.asp?ModelN...
http://www.charlesivey.com/Porsche-Sales/
http://www.hartech.org/cars.html
http://www.portiacraft.com/
http://www.mcgurk.com/current.php?make=12
http://www.harbourcars.com/stock/index.html
http://www.dzd.co.uk/pc/viewCat_P.asp?idCategory=8...
http://www.pauldevyea.co.uk/sales.htm
http://www.cridfords.co.uk/showroom.asp?view=all
http://www.finlaygorham.com/showroom.cfm
http://www.imperials.co.uk/usedcars.php?dealer=153...
http://www.dovehousecars.com/stock.asp
http://sis.virtual-showroom.co.uk/(axhaqnvc3mzjf43...
http://www.gmundcars.com/website/for_sale.htm
http://www.billingecarsales.co.uk/StockList.aspx
http://www.thehairpincompany.co.uk/
http://www.romansofstalbans.co.uk/manufacturer/Por...
...have been perusing these for the last few months
Well thanks for all the info and in particular thanks to Mousem40 for that long and extremely helpful posts, proving it is worth asking questions on forums!
Thanks and keep the info coming.
So far think I'm going for a standard 911 Carrera Cabriolet, prob black or blue with black or blue leather poss grey.
May be slightly high miles but all have great history, one even has factory fitted sat nav!
Thanks for the weblinks too, had some of them but the more the merrier!
Thanks and keep the info coming.
So far think I'm going for a standard 911 Carrera Cabriolet, prob black or blue with black or blue leather poss grey.
May be slightly high miles but all have great history, one even has factory fitted sat nav!
Thanks for the weblinks too, had some of them but the more the merrier!
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