Discussion
Double posting, but maybe I'll score a result better in here!
(original post in GG)
It's looking a lot like HGF. Never done one myself before - does anyone have any tips for DIY gasket replacement or, better still, have a manual (even a Haynes would do!) that they could scan the relevant pages and email?
I shall be taking advantage of the long weekend to get greasy and sweaty. Then I'll work on the car
(original post in GG)
It's looking a lot like HGF. Never done one myself before - does anyone have any tips for DIY gasket replacement or, better still, have a manual (even a Haynes would do!) that they could scan the relevant pages and email?
I shall be taking advantage of the long weekend to get greasy and sweaty. Then I'll work on the car
Edited by t0ny99 on Thursday 23 August 12:59
It's a very straightforward job on a Mini.
Make sure you get a really good new gasket. The BK450 is probably the best there is these days so ask for it by its number.
If the exhaust manifold is the same as the earlier 1275 cars from 1990 onwards, then possibly the most difficult thing is the down-pipe to manifold clamps.
On all my Minis I always bolt the inlet and exhaust manifolds onto the head rather than use those studs in the head. This does make changing HG's just so much easier. I don't see why you can't do this with an MPI, although I've never done one myself. The bolt lengths need to be such that the ends of the bolt go into the head casting by about 0.4" when tightened and the thread form is 5/16" UNF.
You'll need a decent socket set plus a torque wrench. The torque settings are all in the Haynes manual. If you really want to be thorough you could change all the head studs and nuts for ARP ones. They are not cheap, but they are really strong and well engineered.
Remember you'll also need a manifold gasket and the Metro-Turbo one is the best available.
Make absolutely sure the block top and head face are clean and smooth before re-fitting ther head. I always go over both with some medium emery cloth. Don't use any sealer or put oil on the BK450 gasket. It was usual to lightly oil the faces of the old copper-faced gaskets, but don't do it on the latest black composite ones.
Also, and this is important, when you are removing the push rods, give each one a good 'wobble about' before withdrawing it, as if the cam follower 'sticks' to the bottom of the push rod, it can dislodge the follower from its bore and then you have to take the engine out and strip it all down. I only know of one person who has had this happen, but that's one too many! Just have a care when doing this. You can actually feel when the push rod is free of the follower.
Also, undo the bottom hose to let the water out before undoing the head nuts. Otherwise the water can get into the oil.
I hope I haven't made this sound difficult. It's a straightforward and logical job really. I just wanted to point out a few things to remember.
I hope all this helps,
Peter
Make sure you get a really good new gasket. The BK450 is probably the best there is these days so ask for it by its number.
If the exhaust manifold is the same as the earlier 1275 cars from 1990 onwards, then possibly the most difficult thing is the down-pipe to manifold clamps.
On all my Minis I always bolt the inlet and exhaust manifolds onto the head rather than use those studs in the head. This does make changing HG's just so much easier. I don't see why you can't do this with an MPI, although I've never done one myself. The bolt lengths need to be such that the ends of the bolt go into the head casting by about 0.4" when tightened and the thread form is 5/16" UNF.
You'll need a decent socket set plus a torque wrench. The torque settings are all in the Haynes manual. If you really want to be thorough you could change all the head studs and nuts for ARP ones. They are not cheap, but they are really strong and well engineered.
Remember you'll also need a manifold gasket and the Metro-Turbo one is the best available.
Make absolutely sure the block top and head face are clean and smooth before re-fitting ther head. I always go over both with some medium emery cloth. Don't use any sealer or put oil on the BK450 gasket. It was usual to lightly oil the faces of the old copper-faced gaskets, but don't do it on the latest black composite ones.
Also, and this is important, when you are removing the push rods, give each one a good 'wobble about' before withdrawing it, as if the cam follower 'sticks' to the bottom of the push rod, it can dislodge the follower from its bore and then you have to take the engine out and strip it all down. I only know of one person who has had this happen, but that's one too many! Just have a care when doing this. You can actually feel when the push rod is free of the follower.
Also, undo the bottom hose to let the water out before undoing the head nuts. Otherwise the water can get into the oil.
I hope I haven't made this sound difficult. It's a straightforward and logical job really. I just wanted to point out a few things to remember.
I hope all this helps,
Peter
Thanks Peter,
All gaskets already ordered (genuine items, no pattern parts). Do you happen to have the coorrect torque figures to hand for this engine? I have no manual for this one (despite an excessive Haynes collection!).
Many thanks again,
Tony
PS, I did buy the PS ltd edition I was asking for valuation help on
All gaskets already ordered (genuine items, no pattern parts). Do you happen to have the coorrect torque figures to hand for this engine? I have no manual for this one (despite an excessive Haynes collection!).
Many thanks again,
Tony
PS, I did buy the PS ltd edition I was asking for valuation help on
Edited by t0ny99 on Thursday 23 August 17:21
Tony, the only torque setting you need is the one for the head nuts which is 50 lb/ft for all Minis except those with emission control (overseas market cars, not the MPI) which is stated as 40 lb/ft. I don't have it specifically for the MPI, but I would set it to 50 lb/ft, going down in 3 stages, 30, then 40, then 50. Set the valve clearances to 0.015" (cold) then you'll be fine. Just do the rocker shaft nuts up firmly, I never torque mine down and never have a problem with them.
Try to keep the throttle cable connected and just swing the throttle body to one side. If you undo the throttle cable it can be difficult to get it to go through the clamp as the end of the cable sometimes frays a bit.
Good luck with the job,
Peter
Try to keep the throttle cable connected and just swing the throttle body to one side. If you undo the throttle cable it can be difficult to get it to go through the clamp as the end of the cable sometimes frays a bit.
Good luck with the job,
Peter
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