Overheating, water sensors and bleeding?
Discussion
Hi all,
on Wednesday's drive home I noticed the water temperature rising too high: On the open road the temperatures were above normal, but not too worrying. On the Autobahn the temperature was just normal. In traffic, finally, the temperature started to rise until I got got a huge cloud of steam from underneath the bonnet in the driveway. I immediately turned off the engine and checked the it. No obvious damage. Haven't started her since.
Searching the forum, I found these alternatives:
Fans stuck: Checked, they turn freely.
Fuses and solenoids: Checked, ok (although I didn't check the solenoid electrically yet)
Water sensors: Couldn't check for corrosion yet; I assume they're located below the air box. How do I open it? There are supposed to be three clips. I only found two...
I guess, I'll order one or two just for safety. Are the two the same?
Air lock: The POD temperature was never shown as a constant value, instead it used to jump a lot. Is said to be a symptom of an air lock. How to I bleed the water system?
I understand there are two points for bleeding; one accessible from the front ( labeled "H" ) and one underneath the bonnet ( labeled "L" ). Are these the ones?
How do they operate?
I hope some of you are able to help. Living in Germany doesn't really make things easier
.
Thanks
Konrad
on Wednesday's drive home I noticed the water temperature rising too high: On the open road the temperatures were above normal, but not too worrying. On the Autobahn the temperature was just normal. In traffic, finally, the temperature started to rise until I got got a huge cloud of steam from underneath the bonnet in the driveway. I immediately turned off the engine and checked the it. No obvious damage. Haven't started her since.
Searching the forum, I found these alternatives:
Fans stuck: Checked, they turn freely.
Fuses and solenoids: Checked, ok (although I didn't check the solenoid electrically yet)
Water sensors: Couldn't check for corrosion yet; I assume they're located below the air box. How do I open it? There are supposed to be three clips. I only found two...
I guess, I'll order one or two just for safety. Are the two the same?
Air lock: The POD temperature was never shown as a constant value, instead it used to jump a lot. Is said to be a symptom of an air lock. How to I bleed the water system?
I understand there are two points for bleeding; one accessible from the front ( labeled "H" ) and one underneath the bonnet ( labeled "L" ). Are these the ones?
How do they operate?
I hope some of you are able to help. Living in Germany doesn't really make things easier
.Thanks
Konrad
Konrad,
The H & L are the airconditioning charge points
I found the key is make sure no air in the system around the Water temp sensor at the back of the engine under the airbox.
To efficiently fill the radiator system the car needs to be jacked up at the front to get all the air out so the water temp sensor at the back of the engine for ECU works correctly. ( or pressurize/purge the water through to the water temp sensors) To check the fan works and the wiring OK unplug the sensor and both fans will run by default at any temperature with the ignition on.
Offside fan should cut in first at about 91-92degC. nearside at about 96-98degC.
The dash POD menu temperature is not always accurate as it comes from the other sensor.
It makes sense to replace the water expansion filler cap(if you have one)regardless(from a Golf GTI MK1/2)I understand the expansion reservoir that mine has helps reduce likelyhood of air in system
06 Sagaris
06 Sagaris
Hope this helps
Graham
The H & L are the airconditioning charge points
I found the key is make sure no air in the system around the Water temp sensor at the back of the engine under the airbox.
To efficiently fill the radiator system the car needs to be jacked up at the front to get all the air out so the water temp sensor at the back of the engine for ECU works correctly. ( or pressurize/purge the water through to the water temp sensors) To check the fan works and the wiring OK unplug the sensor and both fans will run by default at any temperature with the ignition on.
Offside fan should cut in first at about 91-92degC. nearside at about 96-98degC.
The dash POD menu temperature is not always accurate as it comes from the other sensor.
It makes sense to replace the water expansion filler cap(if you have one)regardless(from a Golf GTI MK1/2)I understand the expansion reservoir that mine has helps reduce likelyhood of air in system
06 Sagaris
06 Sagaris
Hope this helps
Graham
Edited by VARLEYHYD on Friday 24th August 13:22
hollowpockets said:
VARLEYHYD said:
hollowpockets said:
^^^^ were these pics taken when your car was new or do you have a secret obsession with cleaning products? 
Recent photos- just like to keep it clean
G
now its 8 years old, if you like to buy its FOR SALE
Here we go then
Anyone serious PM me
G
Mine neither.Thanks for all the replies - I wouldn't dare driving a car that is so clean
Took some time today to look:
Which temperature sensor is which? The right one for the ECU and the left one for the fans? Or is it the other way around? I had the warning 16 when disconnecting the right one...
Took some time today to look:
- The radiator doesn't leak. Everything dry under the car.
- The left water sensor connector was corroded a little. Cleaned that.
- Topped the water back up.
- The fans didn't work when disconnecting the sensors
Which temperature sensor is which? The right one for the ECU and the left one for the fans? Or is it the other way around? I had the warning 16 when disconnecting the right one...
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff