Anodising aluminium
Discussion
Anodising produces a deposit on the surface but also converts the outer layer of the ali. The longer the item is treated the thicker both become. The colour is simply a dye but is very durable because the surface is very porous which locks in the dye.
The surface will need to be chemically stripped to change the colour. The darker the initial colour the more difficult it will be to strip.
Due to this being a second anodic surface the colour take up of the new colour may be a bit variable and is completely out of the control of the plater. Black is the worst for consistent colour match.
Steve
The surface will need to be chemically stripped to change the colour. The darker the initial colour the more difficult it will be to strip.
Due to this being a second anodic surface the colour take up of the new colour may be a bit variable and is completely out of the control of the plater. Black is the worst for consistent colour match.
Steve
K13 WJD said:
it'll need etching First
Is there an etching process that removes the anodised layer? It's quite tough and chemically stable so might be tricky to completely remove it. I think you will need to be back to a consistent clean surface in order for a new anodised layer to take colour evenly afterwards.Can you just paint them?
GreenV8S said:
K13 WJD said:
it'll need etching First
Is there an etching process that removes the anodised layer? It's quite tough and chemically stable so might be tricky to completely remove it. I think you will need to be back to a consistent clean surface in order for a new anodised layer to take colour evenly afterwards.Can you just paint them?
Anodising comes in various forms but generally can be removed by etching the surface layer with very strong sodium hydroxide. This needs to be carefully done as it can dissolve the aluminium completely worst case or reduce the dimensions at best. The ally can then be reanodised. The amount that is needed to be removed will depend on the original thickness of the anodised layer and the dye penetration.
Items can be reanodised but it is tricky and very often goes wrong. It is not a 100% reliable.
Items can be reanodised but it is tricky and very often goes wrong. It is not a 100% reliable.
GreenV8S said:
K13 WJD said:
it'll need etching First
Is there an etching process that removes the anodised layer? It's quite tough and chemically stable so might be tricky to completely remove it. I think you will need to be back to a consistent clean surface in order for a new anodised layer to take colour evenly afterwards.Can you just paint them?
GTWayne said:
GreenV8S said:
Can you just paint them?
Or powdercoat?The frosts kit is the one i was thinking of,but as already mentioned,it'll be too costly really if i need an etch kit as well

yes, it is entirely possible to do that.....Some fine wet and dry paper, and lots of time.......For example, i to alot of high rope abseiling.....and use a alloy figure of 8 that is anodised RED.....after 200ft of abseiling the red anodising rubbed through to reveal bare alloy......
So, Try very fine wet and dry ( WET ), Maybe even a cutting compound
i remember someone saying something about using nitromors to strip anodised alloy........not sure though
So, Try very fine wet and dry ( WET ), Maybe even a cutting compound
i remember someone saying something about using nitromors to strip anodised alloy........not sure though
I had an alloy putter annodised a while back. I learned a lot!
1. Don't try and remove the surface mechanically - you'll be there forever and you won't get an even finish if there are nooks and crannies...get it dipped for a couple of quid, then re-polish if need be before giving it back.
2. Only cost me a tenner to get mine dipped annodised, then dipped again and re-done. Find a friendly shop and pop in to speak to the bloke there...better than trying the formal phone first approach.
3. The finnish you give the annodiser is the finish (plus a colour) you will end up with. Small scratch before it goes in, small scratch it will come out with...small patch of half wet and dry'ed off old annodising will leave a smudge or shaddow when it's re-done.
1. Don't try and remove the surface mechanically - you'll be there forever and you won't get an even finish if there are nooks and crannies...get it dipped for a couple of quid, then re-polish if need be before giving it back.
2. Only cost me a tenner to get mine dipped annodised, then dipped again and re-done. Find a friendly shop and pop in to speak to the bloke there...better than trying the formal phone first approach.
3. The finnish you give the annodiser is the finish (plus a colour) you will end up with. Small scratch before it goes in, small scratch it will come out with...small patch of half wet and dry'ed off old annodising will leave a smudge or shaddow when it's re-done.
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.I've been struggling to get hold of some heater control knobs in black,for my griff,and just fancied buying a DIY kit to convert my existing ones if nothing turns up soon.