Help S1 Boot release
Discussion
azure elise said:
As above, mine did the same. Just pull down the wheel arch liner, wade through the dust and muck and you will see the boot cable, pull firmly and the boot will pop. I replaced mine with Eliseparts electric opener - I will never have a seized cable again!!
I'm thinking about one of these. What's involved in fitting one? Particularly where do you bring the power from, is there much dismantling to be done, and what form does the release switch take?I've just converted mine to electric opening. I used the spare switch on the s1 dash - which has a loom connection behind it, and is wired into the engine bay (blue/white wire).
I bought a geary (eliseparts) kit to do the job, but when I got it, decided it was over-complicated for what I wanted - as it included a light, and external switch, required a hole drilling in the bodywork, and intruded a little too much into the boot space for my liking - as it was mounted on the rim of the boot opening.
I decided to make up my own smaller version which installs in the space behind the lock mechanism itself, and operate it using a button on the dash as the boot as a remote boot release - this also means that the boot is secure - as it can only be operated when the keys are in the ignition, which is where I started from - rather than failed boot cable
If you or anybody wants to make me an offer for the geary kit - which is now surplus to requirements PM me via the NORLOG or SELOC websites where I post as SteveF.
Cheers
Steve
I bought a geary (eliseparts) kit to do the job, but when I got it, decided it was over-complicated for what I wanted - as it included a light, and external switch, required a hole drilling in the bodywork, and intruded a little too much into the boot space for my liking - as it was mounted on the rim of the boot opening.
I decided to make up my own smaller version which installs in the space behind the lock mechanism itself, and operate it using a button on the dash as the boot as a remote boot release - this also means that the boot is secure - as it can only be operated when the keys are in the ignition, which is where I started from - rather than failed boot cable
If you or anybody wants to make me an offer for the geary kit - which is now surplus to requirements PM me via the NORLOG or SELOC websites where I post as SteveF.
Cheers
Steve
Edited by SteveF2 on Tuesday 4th September 18:38
SteveF2 said:
I've just converted mine to electric opening. I used the spare switch on the s1 dash - which has a loom connection behind it, and is wired into the engine bay (blue/white wire).
I bought a geary (eliseparts) kit to do the job, but when I got it, decided it was over-complicated for what I wanted - as it included a light, and external switch, required a hole drilling in the bodywork, and intruded a little too much into the boot space for my liking - as it was mounted on the rim of the boot opening.
I decided to make up my own smaller version which installs in the space behind the lock mechanism itself, and operate it using a button on the dash as the boot as a remote boot release - this also means that the boot is secure - as it can only be operated when the keys are in the ignition, which is where I started from - rather than failed boot cable
If you or anybody wants to make me an offer for the geary kit - which is now surplus to requirements PM me via the NORLOG or SELOC websites where I post as SteveF.
Cheers
Steve
Whereabouts is the cable in the engine bay? What sort of solenoid have you used? Also, do you have any pics?I bought a geary (eliseparts) kit to do the job, but when I got it, decided it was over-complicated for what I wanted - as it included a light, and external switch, required a hole drilling in the bodywork, and intruded a little too much into the boot space for my liking - as it was mounted on the rim of the boot opening.
I decided to make up my own smaller version which installs in the space behind the lock mechanism itself, and operate it using a button on the dash as the boot as a remote boot release - this also means that the boot is secure - as it can only be operated when the keys are in the ignition, which is where I started from - rather than failed boot cable
If you or anybody wants to make me an offer for the geary kit - which is now surplus to requirements PM me via the NORLOG or SELOC websites where I post as SteveF.
Cheers
Steve
Edited by SteveF2 on Tuesday 4th September 18:38
Cheers,
Dave
Mrs Trackside said:
dunxS1 said:
Sometimes you can get a friend to wiggle the boot lid side to side while you're gently pulling the cable, i've opened mine like that before when cable got stuck.
Dunx.
That's how I got mine open today: Trackside says wiggle it to the right, not the left! Dunx.
think it also depends on where the catch in the lid is fixed, I think ours is slightly offset to the leftMr. Gangland Boss,
I followed the lazy route and fitted Geary's kit, which is fairly straightforward and does give you a light in the boot as well - when the parking or dipped lights are on.
The operation is simple - you put a small stainless steel push button at the top of the rear nuber plate recess (by the plate lamp), to open the boot just push the button with one hand and then push your alarm remote with the other. As the indicators flash a relay is triggered which powers the boot lock solenoid. The fitting is fairly straightforward, I did several "dry runs" before actually shutting the boot and trying it!! not a single glitch since fitting it (touches wood - it is a Lotus!).
I followed the lazy route and fitted Geary's kit, which is fairly straightforward and does give you a light in the boot as well - when the parking or dipped lights are on.
The operation is simple - you put a small stainless steel push button at the top of the rear nuber plate recess (by the plate lamp), to open the boot just push the button with one hand and then push your alarm remote with the other. As the indicators flash a relay is triggered which powers the boot lock solenoid. The fitting is fairly straightforward, I did several "dry runs" before actually shutting the boot and trying it!! not a single glitch since fitting it (touches wood - it is a Lotus!).
azure elise said:
Mr. Gangland Boss,
I followed the lazy route and fitted Geary's kit, which is fairly straightforward and does give you a light in the boot as well - when the parking or dipped lights are on.
The operation is simple - you put a small stainless steel push button at the top of the rear nuber plate recess (by the plate lamp), to open the boot just push the button with one hand and then push your alarm remote with the other. As the indicators flash a relay is triggered which powers the boot lock solenoid. The fitting is fairly straightforward, I did several "dry runs" before actually shutting the boot and trying it!! not a single glitch since fitting it (touches wood - it is a Lotus!).
Cheers Alex! I followed the lazy route and fitted Geary's kit, which is fairly straightforward and does give you a light in the boot as well - when the parking or dipped lights are on.
The operation is simple - you put a small stainless steel push button at the top of the rear nuber plate recess (by the plate lamp), to open the boot just push the button with one hand and then push your alarm remote with the other. As the indicators flash a relay is triggered which powers the boot lock solenoid. The fitting is fairly straightforward, I did several "dry runs" before actually shutting the boot and trying it!! not a single glitch since fitting it (touches wood - it is a Lotus!).
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