Discussion
Pasco knows he has 2, that doesn't mean he knows what to use them for tho 
oerrmissus:
An alternate ECU can drive coil packs so you can map the ignition precisely at different revs/loads. Easy way to do this is send 12v signals to coil packs which replace your dizzy, amp & coil set up. You can get lots of variations, most modern cars use them per say.
Dave
oerrmissus:An alternate ECU can drive coil packs so you can map the ignition precisely at different revs/loads. Easy way to do this is send 12v signals to coil packs which replace your dizzy, amp & coil set up. You can get lots of variations, most modern cars use them per say.
Dave
spend said:
Pasco knows he has 2, that doesn't mean he knows what to use them for tho oerrmissus:
An alternate ECU can drive coil packs so you can map the ignition precisely at different revs/loads. Easy way to do this is send 12v signals to coil packs which replace your dizzy, amp & coil set up. You can get lots of variations, most modern cars use them per say.
Dave
Actually i have Three Dave if i include the Spare you are keeping for me oerrmissus:An alternate ECU can drive coil packs so you can map the ignition precisely at different revs/loads. Easy way to do this is send 12v signals to coil packs which replace your dizzy, amp & coil set up. You can get lots of variations, most modern cars use them per say.
Dave
The original clockwork ignition has a single coil, and the distributor connects it to each spark plug in turn and also fires the coil at the appropriate time. This is nice and simple but means that the ignition timing is controlled by a very crude mechanism inside the distributor.
More modern systems have multiple coil packs each permanently connected to either one or (more usually) two cylinders. With these systems each coil pack is triggered directly by the ECU i.e. the ECU determines where the crank is and triggers the right coil at the right time. The original ECU doesn't have the capability to do this, so to use coil packs you will need to install an aftermarket ECU. It's a no-brainer that you would use this to control the fuel as well as the ignition. With this approach you can control the ignition timing far more accurately and flexibly.
More modern systems have multiple coil packs each permanently connected to either one or (more usually) two cylinders. With these systems each coil pack is triggered directly by the ECU i.e. the ECU determines where the crank is and triggers the right coil at the right time. The original ECU doesn't have the capability to do this, so to use coil packs you will need to install an aftermarket ECU. It's a no-brainer that you would use this to control the fuel as well as the ignition. With this approach you can control the ignition timing far more accurately and flexibly.
thanks for the infos, all well understood.
it's already sometime now i'm having bad and tedious malfunctions in my engine, not always but time by time, specially when is hot and when the throttle is not fully engaged...i feel these problems, that show up in the form of a prolongued missfiring depend from some electrical problem to the ecu or the distributor or both together (the coil is brand new), also, i have the uncomfortable feeling my timing changes to its pleasure infact after fixing it the car goes properly but after sometime i feel it changed, sometimes advanced and less often retarded, the car is a '96 model...i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
it's already sometime now i'm having bad and tedious malfunctions in my engine, not always but time by time, specially when is hot and when the throttle is not fully engaged...i feel these problems, that show up in the form of a prolongued missfiring depend from some electrical problem to the ecu or the distributor or both together (the coil is brand new), also, i have the uncomfortable feeling my timing changes to its pleasure infact after fixing it the car goes properly but after sometime i feel it changed, sometimes advanced and less often retarded, the car is a '96 model...i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
Edited by panic on Sunday 26th August 19:24
panic said:
thanks for the infos, all well understood.
it's already sometime now i'm having bad and tedious malfunctions in my engine, not always but time by time, specially when is hot and when the throttle is not fully engaged...i feel these problems, that show up in the form of a prolongued missfiring depend from some electrical problem to the ecu or the distributor or both together (the coil is brand new), the car is a '96 model...i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and fix a 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it.
Mate before you go down that expensive rout Junk the Lucas cac !it's already sometime now i'm having bad and tedious malfunctions in my engine, not always but time by time, specially when is hot and when the throttle is not fully engaged...i feel these problems, that show up in the form of a prolongued missfiring depend from some electrical problem to the ecu or the distributor or both together (the coil is brand new), the car is a '96 model...i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and fix a 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it.
ECU and airflow meter and Dizzy
I can thoroughly recommend Joo at Track Car Solutions to sort this out for you.
Pasco
well, i frankly believe the key of the distress is the ecu and distributor...the car has some expensive goodies (like tripple act carbon plenum, uprated inlets, carbon trumpets, the new exhaust act manifold, sport exhaust, larger bosch airmeter, mark adams tuned chip, etc) and when it used to go plenty it really went fast! (and the engine has been just rebuilt with tvr-power original parts...)
i'll get in touch with this guy you suggest for the final try, before i go radical...
i'll get in touch with this guy you suggest for the final try, before i go radical...
panic said:
i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
If you think EFI is frustrating, just wait until you have to diagnose running problems with those four carbs!GreenV8S said:
panic said:
i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
If you think EFI is frustrating, just wait until you have to diagnose running problems with those four carbs! not that i am knowledgeable to comment, but i am sure he is right.Panic YHM
Pasco
GreenV8S said:
panic said:
i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
If you think EFI is frustrating, just wait until you have to diagnose running problems with those four carbs!i have a 406ci old gen carbed chevy engine in my '77 vette, output was dinoed at 575 hp at 6.200rpms, never had a single problem since the engine was built and tested 2 years ago (and about 10.000 miles ago...), and the carb is not an 'easy' one as it's a racy 850cfm mighty demon on top of a victor junior manifold...
Edited by panic on Sunday 26th August 20:26
GreenV8S said:
panic said:
i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
If you think EFI is frustrating, just wait until you have to diagnose running problems with those four carbs!
Pasco said:
Actually i have Three Dave if i include the Spare you are keeping for me
After Mrs Pascos Dad had given two 'coming out' parties in her honour, and she had not pulled, and her Mother had asked Dad to fund yet another shindig.. Wise old Dad says "If she cant get a man with two balls what chance has she got of getting a man with three!?" - along came Mr Pasco Anyway... technically its not yours till you pay for it
Dave
panic said:
the car is a '96 model...i'm seriously thinking of swapping in a carbed chevy or get rid of the full ecu electronics and efi and airmeter bs altogether and fix a nice 650cfm quadruple carb on top of it with a clean round airfilter on its top...
How are you going to get that through post cat emissions?griffdude said:
Can someone post some pics of coilpack install/mounts as I'm weighing up the options.
Thanks
Howard
HowardThanks
Howard
I'd get a pair of citroen / Peugot 4 pot coils and mount them on the passenger side rocker cover. This isn't as neat as the rover p38 installation but there are a few advantages:
The citreon packs are dirt cheap brand new ( about 17 quid each from euro car parts)
They use a std plug lead so no special ends required, you can just re-use some of your existing ones and buy the rest individually from Halfords
The Rover packs aren't the most reliable especially 2nd hand
Matt
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff