Front wheel bearing

[Dave Meredith]

Forum search does not appear to be working

Could someone be so kind as to tell me what the part number is for a front wheel bearing on my 1985 350i?

Many thanks

[jmorgan]

Not sure the part number but ordered one for a 400 from the local factors quoting a Granada of indeterminable age and saying it was for a TVR 400SE and came to around £9, in stock as well. Fords say they don't support that anymore.

Edited to add, its a 1990 car so assuming its the same?

Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 28th August 11:56

[JR]

Ford Cortina.

[jmorgan]

My bad.

[Dave Meredith]

Cheers guys

A Mk4/5 Cortina bearing it is then

[TVRleigh]

I think you have missed it but there was one going cheep on ebay.

[Danny Hoffman]

Mine had a Granada, not a Cortina one - '85 350i

[Nads]

Mine was replaced last week. Mark IV Cortina ball joint for around £12:00 inc VAT. Southern Motor Factors supplied the garage I think. (SMF usually source the parts easily. Ford garage has been a waste of time in the past.)
2.8i FHC+2 1981
Good luck
Nads

[TVR 3X]

When you fit the new bearings don't tighten up too far.

I did and the hub locked up trashing the stub axle - both sides.

I'm stupid - don't you be. I was taught to tighten till it locks and then loosen off one flat - this isn't enough. The hub expands faster than the stub axle so it locks up.

Needs about 1 to 5 thou end float (from the Heynes Granada manual) 1 to 3 thou from the Wedge bible.

Russ

[Dave Meredith]

Just to clarify:

I tried to fit a Cortina bearing but the larger inner race would not quite fit the hub. Outer small bearing was fine though.

Ordered a Mk2 Granada bearing and this fitted fine. I don't know whether TVR fitted different hubs but for my 1985 350i it's definitely a Mk2 Granada. An e-bay bargain for £9.95

[rev-erend]

So where is the end float measured..

I have adjusted mine - with the wheel on and push / pull top and bottom of the wheel .. an leave a small
amount of movement.

It sure would be a faf to set-up my dial gauge to measure at the top of the disc surface with the wheel on..

[TVRleigh(BBWR)]

I think you don't want to do it too tight, as remember reading a current post of not doing it right, and wrecking the whole system. so it's worth checking a workshop manual.

[rev-erend]

Leigh - I've helped others at Le Mans who did not het it right .. have to lend them my newly sharpered cold chiesel..

Hopefully it right and it's not the first time I've done this little job .. it's an annual event

[SEvans]

IIRC you torque up the nut to a certain amount ( which I can't remember without getting the Granada Manual out of the Garage) and then back off the nut 1/4 turn. If anyone is interested I can dig out the manual tomorrow and post the exact procedure. Cheers Steve

[TVR 3X]

The way I do it is with a dial gauge and a magnetic base. £16.99 (58566) and £18.75 (47525) from Screwfix <www.screwfix.co.uk> - but you should be able to borrow these, the pictures may help you with the following description.

Stick the magnetic base onto the flat bit of the disk and then move the arm so the dial gauge is parallel with the stub axle and touching the centre of the stub axle.

You should be able to zero the gauge and then push the disk away from you on both sides of the disk, read the gauge. Pull the disk towards you on both sides of the disk and read the gauge again. The difference between the two readings is the end float. The end float is somply a measure of the amount the disk can move inboard and outboard when everything is cold.

If you know the thread of the stub axle then it should be possible to work out exactly how many threads to the cm (or inch) and then work out how many flats make the correct end-float - but this depends on not tightening up too far in the first place before you back off.

The reason that this end float is needed is that the disk is firmly attached to the outer hub but doesn't touch the stub axle. So any heat from braking will expand the outer hub but the stub axle will stay the same length for a while. The outer hub will push on the bearings to try to stretch the stub axle so either the bearing inner or outer spins and friction is caused or the bearings lock up. If the inner bearing spins on the stub axle then this can weld itself to the stub axle - this is what happened to me.

Russ

[rev-erend]

Russ - many thanks for that ..

1 to 3 (or 5) thou - sounds like 'just not zero'..

I do already have the mad base and dial guage - so I'll give it a go some time..

[gsx600]

When I used to tighten up the hubs on most of my old fords - Escorts ,Capris etc, we used to get told tighten until hub is hard to turn by hand and then slacken of 90 degrees. Never had a failure doing it this way and still do this on the Wedge when I remember

[TVR 3X]

But the hub assembly on the Tiv is much bigger and expands more when it gets hot.

If the thread is 1 mm pitch then 90 degrees is a quarter of a millimeter 0.25mm whereas 5 thou is .127 of a millimeter. I hope my maths is correct as I haven't got my tables handy.

Anyway - I think that too much clearance is better than too little - but it might fail an MOT if the tester feels a big gap.

Russ

[TVRleigh(BBWR)]

I would have thought on a thread that size the pitch would be 1.25mm or 1.5 mm

[dwgriffith]

rev-erend said:

Russ - many thanks for that ..

1 to 3 (or 5) thou - sounds like 'just not zero'..

I do already have the mad base and dial guage - so I'll give it a go some time..

Tvr manual official procedure is as follows.

7. Tighten adjuster nut to a torque of 3.7Kgm(27 ft.Lbs) whilst rotating the hub in an anticlockwise direction. Slacken the nut back until an end float of 0.001 to 0.003 inch is obtained. Position adjusting nut retainer so as to align a slot in the retainer with hole in spindle and fit new split pin. Refit centre and dust cap. Fig18

To accurately measure on axis end float with a dial gauge as described (especially a cheap screwfix one) whilst logical, in practice would be open to significant errors. In any event by the time the nut has been rotated to the first or second slot alignment point after removing the nut torque the required end float will already have been met.