LC-1's installed
Discussion
I have installed my two LC1's, I wired all my earths to one point (battery) like the manual said, wired the simulated NB lead to the NB plug and picked up the switched 12+ there also. Everything works except as I suspected the PCM has thrown 4 DTC's for the heater circuit voltag/performance of the two front O2 sensors.
Can I trick the PCM by wiring a resistor between the Heater+ and Heater- at the NB plug?
I should be able to determine its value by measuring the resitance between the two leads on the O2 sensor heater wires?
Apart from that everythings working, reading AFR's from both banks and engines running fine.
Can I trick the PCM by wiring a resistor between the Heater+ and Heater- at the NB plug?
I should be able to determine its value by measuring the resitance between the two leads on the O2 sensor heater wires?
Apart from that everythings working, reading AFR's from both banks and engines running fine.
o.versteer said:
I understand precisely nothing of what you've just written but it sounds great 

Thanks, I'll try to explain, I have bought EFILive, a flash scanner for reading and writing infomation to the engine managment system. Basicly for tuning the engine yourself, you need to be able to know what the Air Fuel Ratio AFR is before you can start doing anything interesting, the LC-1's are wide band O2 sensors that replaced the stock narrow band sensors.
Riiiiiight.....
Seriously, I do understand the theory of it all now you've explained it but I wouldn't really be able to do anything with it. Have considered getting EFI live and tinkering about with stuff, but I'd probably break something expensive so am not going to bother
Be interesting to hear how you get on though.
Seriously, I do understand the theory of it all now you've explained it but I wouldn't really be able to do anything with it. Have considered getting EFI live and tinkering about with stuff, but I'd probably break something expensive so am not going to bother
Be interesting to hear how you get on though. The £1M question. Just start logging and reading the forums, read the autove tutorial which is a good start.
Check the tutorials section on efilive there are some good documents there, there is a Wiki that Garry made with some help from others.
Basically if you look at the forumla's its all about air, fuel and spark.
Some key things to read up on are "stoich", "afr", "mbt".
I did a blog a while ago which I wrote before I started, its written in my weird style, but apart from that might help with the general sequence.
http://r8transformation.blogspot.com/
Check the tutorials section on efilive there are some good documents there, there is a Wiki that Garry made with some help from others.
Basically if you look at the forumla's its all about air, fuel and spark.
Some key things to read up on are "stoich", "afr", "mbt".
I did a blog a while ago which I wrote before I started, its written in my weird style, but apart from that might help with the general sequence.
http://r8transformation.blogspot.com/
speaking to joecar it seems a bad idea to wire the grounds (white and green and even blue) to the ground/chasis
The + and - (red and blue) should go to the pcm connectors to keep them happy if replacing nb's and the green/silver should go to the floating pcm ground rather than to chassis ground to minimise noise.
basically ignore the inovative manual, wire the connectors direct into the pcm connector block that keeps pcm happy for all nb simulation. Blue and red must be connected to pcm block as should yellow + green (or silver stripped wire) for nb simulation
did you test it all before plugging it in following the test rig stuff?
The + and - (red and blue) should go to the pcm connectors to keep them happy if replacing nb's and the green/silver should go to the floating pcm ground rather than to chassis ground to minimise noise.
basically ignore the inovative manual, wire the connectors direct into the pcm connector block that keeps pcm happy for all nb simulation. Blue and red must be connected to pcm block as should yellow + green (or silver stripped wire) for nb simulation
did you test it all before plugging it in following the test rig stuff?
Edited by stigmundfreud on Friday 31st August 23:01
ringram said:
Mine is all wired into stock 4 wires and works fine 
yep, mine too - if you look in the lc-1 docs though it says to earth blue and system groud to the same earth point but not together. Instead of that though figured it was better to use all four on the pins so the pcm gets exactly what it is thinking it should get. Joe went in to quite some detail on it but I've got so many docs from him it will take a while to find it! 
stigmundfreud said:
speaking to joecar it seems a bad idea to wire the grounds (white and green and even blue) to the ground/chasis
The + and - (red and blue) should go to the pcm connectors to keep them happy if replacing nb's and the green/silver should go to the floating pcm ground rather than to chassis ground to minimise noise.
basically ignore the inovative manual, wire the connectors direct into the pcm connector block that keeps pcm happy for all nb simulation. Blue and red must be connected to pcm block as should yellow + green (or silver stripped wire) for nb simulation
did you test it all before plugging it in following the test rig stuff?
I agree innovatives manual instructions are difficult to interpret, but they are the manufacturer. While i value all the advice given, i would need a lot of convincing to ignore their instructions.The + and - (red and blue) should go to the pcm connectors to keep them happy if replacing nb's and the green/silver should go to the floating pcm ground rather than to chassis ground to minimise noise.
basically ignore the inovative manual, wire the connectors direct into the pcm connector block that keeps pcm happy for all nb simulation. Blue and red must be connected to pcm block as should yellow + green (or silver stripped wire) for nb simulation
did you test it all before plugging it in following the test rig stuff?
Edited by stigmundfreud on Friday 31st August 23:01
I believe it says all earths shoud be wired seperately to the same point and soldered into a single lug to the engine block (I bolted onto the earth lug on the battery, i might move it to the block).
From the manual
When using precision electronics, it is important for ALL electronics to share a common ground. Remember that “Ground” is more than just the return path for any circuit- it is also the reference against which any voltage is measured.
Since it is not always practical to ground every device to the exact same location, here are some tips on grounding:
1. The BEST grounding scheme is all grounds (i.e., ECU, Gauges, LC1 heater, LC1 system, etc.) SOLDERED into a single lug and bolted to the engine block.
Edit
The ECU being the EFILive unit, not the PCM.
Edited by Gelf VXR on Monday 3rd September 10:24
Gassing Station | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


