Night Photography Questions
Discussion
So last night I was in my local city, and it was absolutely dead, even in the usually busiest areas, so I decided to take some night time city pics. I have a problem though....
Obviously if I use the flash, I just get a dark picture, but when I switch off the flash, I have to keep the camera DEAD still. The slightest movement, and the picture is majorly burred. Even if I manage to keep the camera still, the picture isn't sharp. Is there anyway of getting a decent night time photo with my camera?
As well as this sharpness problem, how can one take the glare off the streeting lighting/traffic lights?
I'm using a Canon IXUS 75, with no tripod.
I took nearly 60 pics last night, and these 5 were the best, and they're not great
1
2
3
4
5
Any advice would be most welcome.
Many thanks in advance,
Darren
Obviously if I use the flash, I just get a dark picture, but when I switch off the flash, I have to keep the camera DEAD still. The slightest movement, and the picture is majorly burred. Even if I manage to keep the camera still, the picture isn't sharp. Is there anyway of getting a decent night time photo with my camera?
As well as this sharpness problem, how can one take the glare off the streeting lighting/traffic lights?
I'm using a Canon IXUS 75, with no tripod.
I took nearly 60 pics last night, and these 5 were the best, and they're not great
1
2
3
4
5
Any advice would be most welcome.
Many thanks in advance,
Darren
Edited by iluvmercs on Monday 3rd September 14:15
Firstly buy a decent tripod. You MUST be able to keep the camera rock steady, there is a certain amount of blur caused by movement, even breathing or your heartbeat, whilst you hold the camera, causes blurring.
A tripod will also allow you to set your camera up for a long exposure using plenty of depth of field with a suitable large f.Stop and if fitted use the timer so that you aren't holding the camera when the shutter fires, ie the camera has time to settle after you've pressed the shutter release button.
Experiment with s-l-o-w shutter speeds and f8 - f32 type f.Stops. Several minutes are not unheard of. Try e.g. f16 @ 1/4 minute intervals right up to something like 3minutes and see how they come out. Make notes of shutter speed/f.Stp/duration to have a tangible comparison.
Oh and a polarising filter will help cut down flare AND lengthen exposure times in the process. Starburst special effects filters will cause the familiar star shaped lights often seen in photographs but use sparingly as they are a bit of a cliche.
A tripod will also allow you to set your camera up for a long exposure using plenty of depth of field with a suitable large f.Stop and if fitted use the timer so that you aren't holding the camera when the shutter fires, ie the camera has time to settle after you've pressed the shutter release button.
Experiment with s-l-o-w shutter speeds and f8 - f32 type f.Stops. Several minutes are not unheard of. Try e.g. f16 @ 1/4 minute intervals right up to something like 3minutes and see how they come out. Make notes of shutter speed/f.Stp/duration to have a tangible comparison.
Oh and a polarising filter will help cut down flare AND lengthen exposure times in the process. Starburst special effects filters will cause the familiar star shaped lights often seen in photographs but use sparingly as they are a bit of a cliche.
Edited by XMG5 on Monday 3rd September 14:49
I find that the best results from night shots involve using the camera in manual mode if you can. Set the aperture to f11 and start with a 2 second exposure. You will need to use a tripod to get anywhere near a good result otherwise you will suffer from camera shake too much as others have said. If 2 seconds is too under-exposed then up it to 4 and if that comes out too dark, up it to 8 etc. etc. You will soon get a feel for what works in what scenarios.
As for street lights, traffic lights etc, well I tend to try and frame shots to avoid them, and certainly don't have them in the foreground too much - the smaller they are the less they distract. Of course, moving lights, from cars for example, make a great subject all of themselves with long exposures.
I don't know the specifics of your Ixus, but I have seen great long exposure shots from compact cameras so it is possible and not just in the realm of those of us with DSLRs. You are not going to have much luck if you don't have a method of keeping the camera rock steady though!
As for street lights, traffic lights etc, well I tend to try and frame shots to avoid them, and certainly don't have them in the foreground too much - the smaller they are the less they distract. Of course, moving lights, from cars for example, make a great subject all of themselves with long exposures.
I don't know the specifics of your Ixus, but I have seen great long exposure shots from compact cameras so it is possible and not just in the realm of those of us with DSLRs. You are not going to have much luck if you don't have a method of keeping the camera rock steady though!
Jack Blag said:
If you haven't got a tripod handy, try and find something to rest your camera on like a wall, post box, etc.
Use a timer to take the photograph, don't use your finger to press the release as this will always end up in a blurred shot.
If your camera has a threaded shutter release you can use a remote release, it looks like a rubber bulb on the end of a thin, long tube which screws into the shutter release button.Use a timer to take the photograph, don't use your finger to press the release as this will always end up in a blurred shot.
You set the camera up, then stand back and squeeze the rubber bulb in your hand, the air is pushed along the tube and fires the pin in the end onto the shutter button causing the camera shutter to fire (or stay open if so set, until you release the bulb again). It help eradicate unwanted vibration caused by pressing the shutter with a pinky.
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff