tr7 v8 radiator
Discussion
I have chased cooling on my 4,6L 280 BHP air conditioned TR8 for a couple of years. Big 4 core radiators, big fans, multi fans, ducting, etc, nothing could get it to completely handle heavy traffic, on 30 degree C days.
Fitted a winged sump, with 1.4 liters extra oil, & an engine oil cooler, & its now under control. Only just, but it is under conrtol. I realy don't like my engine oil being pumped all over the place in a bit of hose, but it was that or dice the aircon.
In Oz, most TR7/V8s use the Holden VN Commodore 3 core radiator, & increasing it to 4 core had almost no effect. You have to keep that little bit of oil cool.
Fitted a winged sump, with 1.4 liters extra oil, & an engine oil cooler, & its now under control. Only just, but it is under conrtol. I realy don't like my engine oil being pumped all over the place in a bit of hose, but it was that or dice the aircon.
In Oz, most TR7/V8s use the Holden VN Commodore 3 core radiator, & increasing it to 4 core had almost no effect. You have to keep that little bit of oil cool.
Hasbeen said:
I have chased cooling on my 4,6L 280 BHP air conditioned TR8 for a couple of years. Big 4 core radiators, big fans, multi fans, ducting, etc, nothing could get it to completely handle heavy traffic, on 30 degree C days.
Fitted a winged sump, with 1.4 liters extra oil, & an engine oil cooler, & its now under control. Only just, but it is under conrtol.
Mt tr8 was a TT 5.0 rv8 hence my having all sorts of heat issues like you. I did all of the above including a GPA big winged sump and custom copper cored radiator but it was often very hot in slow traffic and my huge fan took so much current it would interfere with the ecu.Fitted a winged sump, with 1.4 liters extra oil, & an engine oil cooler, & its now under control. Only just, but it is under conrtol.
The Range Rover viscous fan fitted to the crank was an instant fix. The fan I sourced had big fat blades on it. I wish I'd tried that first!
Boosted.
i have found a guy who will make me a alloy rad for £250 which i think is very reasonable.
my tr7 is a 3.9 v8 with 285 piper cam, msd ignition, holley carb, its used
for track days not road legal, i had a 3.5 and it never overheated, now since i have rebuilt a 3.9 and fitted it, i am having trouble with it overheating, goes like hell though, going to try the rad first and wrap my exhaust in insulation, i have one kenlowe fan in front of the rad do you think i should try two or move them to the back of the rad.
if you try the link below this will take you to youtube where you can see my car at cadwell park.
cheers guys.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=b_ybhc9sYJQ
my tr7 is a 3.9 v8 with 285 piper cam, msd ignition, holley carb, its used
for track days not road legal, i had a 3.5 and it never overheated, now since i have rebuilt a 3.9 and fitted it, i am having trouble with it overheating, goes like hell though, going to try the rad first and wrap my exhaust in insulation, i have one kenlowe fan in front of the rad do you think i should try two or move them to the back of the rad.
if you try the link below this will take you to youtube where you can see my car at cadwell park.
cheers guys.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=b_ybhc9sYJQ
20 degrees max or 20 degrees static? Static could be from 5-12 degrees (watch for starter kickback but you'll get rapid starts off the line at 14 degrees
) and total advance (static plus centrifugal) should be up to 28 degrees. 20 degrees total isn't enough imo. So you could dial in appx 10-12 degrees static and 16/18 degrees centrifugal.
Oh, when is it getting hot at idle or at speed?
) and total advance (static plus centrifugal) should be up to 28 degrees. 20 degrees total isn't enough imo. So you could dial in appx 10-12 degrees static and 16/18 degrees centrifugal.Oh, when is it getting hot at idle or at speed?
20 degrees static, its now 7, it at about 110 degrees at idle, goes off the clock when revved hard or at speed, gauge is new as is the sender, i know its running hot but i think the gauge is wrong cos if its running at 150+ degrees i think we would be in trouble, going to oulton park on wednesday so we shall see if it improves.
When you squeeze the hose you should feel water moving around and not air. To bleed it off you need a hose which vents higher then the rest of the engine, say to the header tank. If you don't have a header tank then you could use a piece of hose with a valve in the end so you can blank it off once the air is out.
I used to have TR7/8s twin turbos, two in fact (one of the original ones in the late 80s and mid niteys on the UK roads). My last one had a Rover 5 ltr V8 with a twin turbo(T04bs)set up, with Methanol injection. The rad i used was a custom one made for me by my local Radiator shop. The core was 3 inches deep and the width was made perfectly to fit between the front chassis legs and was also some 3-4 inches more drop than the standard 7 set up. The fan i used was a spal 17inch draw through. Absolutely no over heating problem's at all. So ask ya local shop to make one up maybe...
Edited by ferrarispider on Saturday 8th September 13:35
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