Ahhh starter motor again
Discussion
BLUETHUNDER said:
Well i believe the cause to be down to the heat coming off of the mild steel manifolds.It just generates to much heat under there.I do believe that Clevor Trevor are offering some sort of heat shield.I will be investing in it once this one is done.
If it's due to heat then i could be much like the Griffs and Chims,where the solenoid dries out and gets sticky,trying to draw too many amps,then the minimal gauge wiring cant supply the power needed?I've heard of people stripping the solenoid and re-lubing with great success.Wrapping in heatsheild certainly seems to have worked on my griff,and the modwise hot start wiring mod also works well.Could be a lot cheaper and more reliable than to keep replacing starters.BLUETHUNDER said:
Its going to be a new one.
Make sure you get the right one - I had 2 supplied by Racing Green, 1st one lasted 10 minutes (literally) in the workshop, did about 5 starts and packed up. Replacement one supplied by Racing Green was fine. In both cases what was ordered was "A starter Motor for a Cerbera 4.5", however both motors were different in that the solenoid housing on each one differed.
The main problem is heat and lots of it
There is little or no airflow over the top of the bell-housing as there is a socking great air-con pump in the way.
This isn't helped by the tightly packed exhausts in the tunnel and the cats cooking the gearbox
So as a fix, or at least to alleviate the problem
1) De-cat, this will reduce heat in the manifolds (less back-pressure) and remove a heat source from under the box
2) Wrap or ceramic coat the the manifolds to keep the heat in the pipe at least until its under the car and in the airflow
3) Fit some ducting to direct air from the front of the car to into the vee
4) Ensure that the big red lead from battery is in good condition (not stiffened with heat) as this gets cooked, its cheap and easy to replace.
Matt
There is little or no airflow over the top of the bell-housing as there is a socking great air-con pump in the way.
This isn't helped by the tightly packed exhausts in the tunnel and the cats cooking the gearbox
So as a fix, or at least to alleviate the problem
1) De-cat, this will reduce heat in the manifolds (less back-pressure) and remove a heat source from under the box
2) Wrap or ceramic coat the the manifolds to keep the heat in the pipe at least until its under the car and in the airflow
3) Fit some ducting to direct air from the front of the car to into the vee
4) Ensure that the big red lead from battery is in good condition (not stiffened with heat) as this gets cooked, its cheap and easy to replace.
Matt
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