Door rattles and noises

[angus99]

I get quite a lot of noises from my drivers side door as follows:

1. when closing the door I get a noise which sounds like metal on glass. This seems to go away if the window is partly open
2. when driving on bumpy roads I also get the glass on metal noise. This also goes away if the window is partly open.
3. there is also a general rattling noise from inside the door on bumpy roads. Opening the window has no effect on this.

I also get intermittent electrical problems when the electric window and mirror controls stop working.

I've tried removing the door trim but can't get to the last bolt. Any one had similar problems or have any suggestions.

[S7Paul]

Haven't had the problem, but you need to check that all the window mechanism components are secure (i.e. that nothing has worked loose), and that the window guide rubbers are all seated correctly. And the bad news is that you'll have to get the inner panel off. The last bolt is bit of a stretch but is usually reachable unless you've got arms like Popeye.

[bigdods]

I had this problem, plus the drivers window always went up slowly with a grinding noise then eventually wouldnt go up at all. Fixed by the garage - apparently the mechanism inside the door was in pieces and the glass was hanging on by a thread. Just needed bolting back together again and all the connectors cleaning up (they are behing the speaker)

[McTavish]

Regards points 1) and 2). Although I have a Griffith I experience the same noise and its caused by the window rubber not running to the very top of the aluminium window frame, hence the glass vibrates against aluminium and is not cushioned by rubber. Lowering the door glass removes the direct contact with the frame.

I'm guessing you only experience this with the roof down, as when on, the window is cushioned by the targa seals.

[angus99]

After trying a few 'advanced Yoga positions' and removing some skin from my arms on the fibreglass edges, I finally got to the last nut and remove the door trim. Inside Everthing looks pretty good, so I have just tightened up all the fixings and secured the wiring. Strange thing is that once the trim was off, the glass on metal noise seems to have gone away.

Anyway I'll put it back together tonight (if my arms can take it) and see if this has solved the problem.

PS, My passenger side window has now started to operate very slowley. is there a way to lubricate this with out removing the door trim as i'm not keen to try this again!

[bigdods]

Here's a thought. Even though its all been tightened and repaird I still get the odd annoying rattle (just as you describe) from the drivers side. When I gently push the door from the inside it stops. I'm wondering if the rattle is due to the door needing to be tightened up a bit.

[SimonV8ster]

[quote=angus99]My passenger side window has now started to operate very slowly.......... /quote]

I believe there is a mod to speed them up a bit, not sure what it is or where I saw it. Maybe on the Chimaera pages ??

[nikman]

McTavish said:

I'm guessing you only experience this with the roof down, as when on, the window is cushioned by the targa seals.

I second that. I get it too with the drivers door but only when being closed more than just gently and only with the roof off and hoop down. Nick.

[angus99]

Just got my car back after having new Gaz Gold shocks fitted. Had a couple of good long runs over the weekend and and the new shocks have transformed the cars handling. Downside is the original rattling noise from the drivers door has come back.

Ive had another look at the window mechanism and it there seems quite a lot of play in the rear channel. The top of the door trim has also come a bit loose at the rear of the door. Looks like I might need to replace the window channel or the rubber guide inside it and re-attach the trim more securely. any idea where I can get the door channel rubber guides from.

[Cider Andy]

angus99 said:

PS, My passenger side window has now started to operate very slowley. is there a way to lubricate this with out removing the door trim as i'm not keen to try this again!

I used an aerosol can of lithium grease. It came with a short stiff tube on the nozzle that I extended using some electrical earth sheathing. I removed the door speaker and found I could access the flexible drive mechanism that lifts the window. It's contained in a metal tube that is slit at the back. I found I could run the end of the [earth sleeve] tube in this slit along the length of the flexible drive with one hand while operating the aerosol with the other from outside the car.

Using an aerosol can of silicone spray I drenched the runners. Combined, this simple maintenance halved the time it takes to lift the windows.

Another thing to check is the connector block to the window motor. You might find the connections are slack. It's possible to nip them up a bit by forcing a small screwdriver blade between each connector and the rubber block they are set in.