Winter Driving Advisable Because of Corrosion?
Discussion
If chassis treated, then no reason not to drive it....just make sure you have chassis checked and treated with waxoil/similar each year.
I drive my Griff in winter tho rarely do I go out in it if its raining. Rest of time its garaged but I only usually get the chance to use it at weekends (having said that just been for a little blat....
)
As youll soon discover plenty use their Tivs in winter....even chim drivers...although Ive heard it ruins your hairdos....
Just kidding all. Yeah, drive it - it`ll benefit your car anyway, they dont love sitting around too long.
Dave.
I drive my Griff in winter tho rarely do I go out in it if its raining. Rest of time its garaged but I only usually get the chance to use it at weekends (having said that just been for a little blat....
)As youll soon discover plenty use their Tivs in winter....even chim drivers...although Ive heard it ruins your hairdos....
Just kidding all. Yeah, drive it - it`ll benefit your car anyway, they dont love sitting around too long.
Dave.
I think the benefits of keeping the car running both in terms of car health and my psychological health far outweigh the possibility of a bit of chassis corrosion.
As the man said pump some wax in there and keep using it,
It only takes one crisp winters day to make it all worthwhile
Matt
As the man said pump some wax in there and keep using it,
It only takes one crisp winters day to make it all worthwhile
Matt
Come on guys. Surely it's about the WAY you drive, not the car.
I twitched the back end yesterday on a perfectly dry day and toasty warm Bridgestone S03s, and yes I was being a tw@t.
That said, the engine braking is soooo colossal that changing down in snow might have been asking for that sideways waltz?
I intend to drive my 500 whatever the weather. It's my only car anyway so I don't have much choice but I will get the chassis checked and done if necessary each spring.
Go for it and learn a bit more about the car in slippery conditions. Take it easy and treat it with respect but as someone said yesterday, don't be intimidated by the car. They need to be controlled by you, not them control you.
I twitched the back end yesterday on a perfectly dry day and toasty warm Bridgestone S03s, and yes I was being a tw@t.
That said, the engine braking is soooo colossal that changing down in snow might have been asking for that sideways waltz?
I intend to drive my 500 whatever the weather. It's my only car anyway so I don't have much choice but I will get the chassis checked and done if necessary each spring.
Go for it and learn a bit more about the car in slippery conditions. Take it easy and treat it with respect but as someone said yesterday, don't be intimidated by the car. They need to be controlled by you, not them control you.
Good advice alreeady given above - my tuppence worth...
Dont use the gears to slow you down, the brakes are sufficient - it is the single biggest contributor to TVR accidents - loads of torque that will cause the rear wheels to lock up and send you backwards through a hedge.
This approach has kept me on the black stuff (touching timber).
- Get the chassis prepared properly.
- Drive the car as often as you can weather permitting - I avoid salt and wet as best I can.
- Wash the car after a drive, and get to the underside if you can.
Dont use the gears to slow you down, the brakes are sufficient - it is the single biggest contributor to TVR accidents - loads of torque that will cause the rear wheels to lock up and send you backwards through a hedge.
This approach has kept me on the black stuff (touching timber).
If you get the chassis waxed, make sure they do a proper job????
I've just checked my car after the previous owner had paid out nearly £200 on a waxoil.
Loads of important places were not properly done. The centre rail / tube that runs from the main chassis to the out riggers in the middle of the car have two triangular plates welded on, just like each end of the riggers. Its important that these have wax blown over the plates to get to the back of the outrigger tube. Mine were not done at all. Also a triangular plate in the main chassis which was dry and wax free.
The other place, apart from the obvious, each end of the outriggers, is just in front of the manifold (large pipes) behind the radiator. There are a pair of retangular box sections, that get hot and blister the paint. check these out.
Also the wishbone supports at the top front. Where the tube ends are towards the radiator. There is only a thin round section fitted on the ends. and a small flat area underneath that goes rusty quickly as the salt will lay on this.
Do it now before the winter and it should be fine. I hasen to add that my baby is going into hibernation for the winter, but we can,t all do that!!
I've just checked my car after the previous owner had paid out nearly £200 on a waxoil.
Loads of important places were not properly done. The centre rail / tube that runs from the main chassis to the out riggers in the middle of the car have two triangular plates welded on, just like each end of the riggers. Its important that these have wax blown over the plates to get to the back of the outrigger tube. Mine were not done at all. Also a triangular plate in the main chassis which was dry and wax free.
The other place, apart from the obvious, each end of the outriggers, is just in front of the manifold (large pipes) behind the radiator. There are a pair of retangular box sections, that get hot and blister the paint. check these out.
Also the wishbone supports at the top front. Where the tube ends are towards the radiator. There is only a thin round section fitted on the ends. and a small flat area underneath that goes rusty quickly as the salt will lay on this.
Do it now before the winter and it should be fine. I hasen to add that my baby is going into hibernation for the winter, but we can,t all do that!!
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