Engine & Gearbox Oil change

[JensenA]

I feel a bit of a plonker asking this question after owning TVR's for 4 years, but so what I've always done my own 'fettling and niggle' cures, but always left the oil change for the Indie at the service time, but I'm off to France in 2 days time - sudden change of plan - so I have 2k of driving ahead of me and want it done before I go, don't have time to get to my Indie so I'm taking it to a local garage to have done, I'm assuming it's perfectly stratight forward, or am I wrong ??
Engine:
1. Remove the Engine Under plate (Do you have to remove it?)
2. Drain Oil
3. Remove & Replace filter
4. Pour in my lovely new Silkolene
Gearbox:
1. Remove Drain plug
2. Replace drain plug
3. Fill with ATF until it reaches the top

And while I'm at it.....How tricky is it do do the rear diff?

Apologies for the Daft question.

[BLUETHUNDER]

Done the engine oil change lst week.Undo the bolt nearest to the gearbox and drain.You can get away with un-doing the nearside of the belly plate.Pull down slightly and that will give you enough room to get at the filter.Prime the filter with oil before re-fitting.

[JensenA]

Many thanks

[WIL35]

Not sure if was just me, but getting the gearbox filler bolt back in was a pain....especially with ATF fluid running down your arm!

[jbvipercerb]

Yep, just has been said, but make sure you prefill the oil filter, it will take long enough for the oil pressure to come back up at the best of times!! I have changed an oil filter without removing the bottom cover but it was awkward and you lose a bit of oil out of the filter.
I've seen in this forum somewhere that the best oil to use in the gearbox is synthetic gear oil, it luricates the bearings well and allows the synchro rings to work properly.
The diff, as far as I know, is filled with EP 80/90 gear oil and the Hydratrac is self contained inside, so doesn't need any maintanance.
Its all fairly basic stuff, enjoy it!!

[Peppe]

Hi !

The diff should have a 80/140EP LS oil. Check in the handbook.

[JensenA]

Thanks Guys - Im using Silkolene Pro S 10w-60 for the engine (if Byker28i is using it in my old car, then it's good enough for this one) and AMS Oil Fully synthetic ATF for the Gear box - as recomended by Andy at APM who fitted my new box earlier this year. Getting it done on Thursday, then off to France, wish me luck.

[N1CERB]

Changed my oil twice last week and the filter filled up no worries. I left the bottom plate in place so did not prime the filter with oil, after just a few hours of running it was all full up by the pump with no issues.

I also found removing both drain plugs helps get the last bits of oil out of the sump.

If your filter is stuck then acess from the wheel arch is sufficient to bang a screw driver into the filter and turn it the good old fashioned way!

Flushed the engine out on the first change also, just to get any residual gunk out of the system. Good oil in now and pressure is fine!

Cheers
Dave...