windscreen washer help
Discussion
how do you get access to the windscreen washer pipework under the metal grill /wipers. There is a fixed union in the grille on the drivers side but on the nearside there was a connector pushed underneath which was leaking.I tried to draw it through the hole(carefully) to repair but the connection fell apart leaving the pipe seemingly inaccessible. (1995 Griff 500)
On the nearside on mine I found the easiest way I found is to cut a hole in the engine bay just under the graiting in line with where it should come through. I cut a hole by drilling a few holes and then cutting out between them. It was about 20mm by 15mm. I could then get in and rejoin the pipe. I then recovered using sealant and small piece of Ali and a couple of small screws.If you want pics i can get some pics tomorrow eve.
The other way I think is dash out complete with the leather etc.
BB
The other way I think is dash out complete with the leather etc.
BB
The pipes fall into the bottom of the heater distribution box (this is everything that you see as black to the rear of the engine bay), you need to gently remove the lower rubber screen surround, and carefully drill every pop rivet that holds the metal grill onto the shell, (this is will also be held on by an excess of silcone) use a dressed saw blade to carefully cut this excess, and remove the wiper arms and grill,releasing one pinion at a time, and without bending it! Continue drilling the rivets that hold the box on and then cut away the silicone in the 2 outer corners and then remove the wiper motor and rack (leaving the rack tube and large nut in the box), and the bonnet pull cable end and release it from the mech. THEN gentle prise the box off the shell... DO NOT BREAK the front screen, DO NOT TRY THIS at home. refitting is the reverse of fitting, once you have found and replaced the wiper pipes of course.
Now, what was the question?
Adrian@
Now, what was the question?
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 11th September 08:26
There is an easier way Adrian;
If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
Bluebottle said:
There is an easier way Adrian;
If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
This is why I am a TVR specialist...I would never be caught cutting holes in the distribution box (If I did you would never know it),and I would put the dam thing back on properly so that the screen vents had good pressure and fumes from the engine bay did not get drawn into the cabin from the bottom of the poorly sealed edge, along with converting the inner fixings of the washer pipes so that the external fitting screw in and the internal pipes can never be lost again, along with sealing all the pop rivets so that the footwells did not fill with water!.If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
Adrian@
Same as Bluebottle,
drilled in for the driver side connection (removed bonnet latching mechanism first), pulled out tube through hole, threaded tube back up through grill with a piece of stiff wire, new grommet and washer connection fitted, 1 inch blanking grommet with sealant to fill hole. Found it quick and simple to do, no way was I going in behind dash or removing riveted in scuttle panel.
drilled in for the driver side connection (removed bonnet latching mechanism first), pulled out tube through hole, threaded tube back up through grill with a piece of stiff wire, new grommet and washer connection fitted, 1 inch blanking grommet with sealant to fill hole. Found it quick and simple to do, no way was I going in behind dash or removing riveted in scuttle panel.
Adrian@ said:
Bluebottle said:
There is an easier way Adrian;
If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
This is why I am a TVR specialist...I would never be caught cutting holes in the distribution box (If I did you would never know it),and I would put the dam thing back on properly so that the screen vents had good pressure and fumes from the engine bay did not get drawn into the cabin from the bottom of the poorly sealed edge, along with converting the inner fixings of the washer pipes so that the external fitting screw in and the internal pipes can never be lost again, along with sealing all the pop rivets so that the footwells did not fill with water!.If you look at the bulkhead from the engine bay, the drivers side has a sloping soffit directly under the washer jet outlet above. On mine it already had a 1" dia. hole with a rubber grommet which you can pull off and retrieve the pipe with a coat hanger.
On the passenger side i drilled a 1" hole using a flat wood drill about 2" down from the vent grill in the vertical face of the bulkhead directly under the pipe outlet and sealed it after with a rubber grommet from local auto store.
Adrian@
Ozstyle said:
Same as Bluebottle,
drilled in for the driver side connection (removed bonnet latching mechanism first), pulled out tube through hole, threaded tube back up through grill with a piece of stiff wire, new grommet and washer connection fitted, 1 inch blanking grommet with sealant to fill hole. Found it quick and simple to do, no way was I going in behind dash or removing riveted in scuttle panel.
This is the way most specialists will do it, put a finger up behind the bonnet release mechanism chances are you will find a blanking grommet already there from the last time the tube fell off!! drilled in for the driver side connection (removed bonnet latching mechanism first), pulled out tube through hole, threaded tube back up through grill with a piece of stiff wire, new grommet and washer connection fitted, 1 inch blanking grommet with sealant to fill hole. Found it quick and simple to do, no way was I going in behind dash or removing riveted in scuttle panel.
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