Discussion
Anyone tried racing fuel on their cerbera?
I got a drum of vp motorsport 109 (109 octane!) racing fuel in anticipation of my cerb coming back from garage next week, itll be decatted so at least the pops and bangs shouldnt blow the cats apart! I dread to think how much popping and banging its going to do! I have my doubts as to even whether it will provide much if any performance gain, since I have only currently got the standard ecu/map, I could imagine some tangible gain with a decent ecu thats been custom mapped for this particular fuel, but it will be interesting to give it a try with standard fuelling setup! is it safe to run a cerbera dry of fuel? if not, any suggestions how many miles to chance it once the red light comes on so I can run the old pump fuel out?
cheers
I got a drum of vp motorsport 109 (109 octane!) racing fuel in anticipation of my cerb coming back from garage next week, itll be decatted so at least the pops and bangs shouldnt blow the cats apart! I dread to think how much popping and banging its going to do! I have my doubts as to even whether it will provide much if any performance gain, since I have only currently got the standard ecu/map, I could imagine some tangible gain with a decent ecu thats been custom mapped for this particular fuel, but it will be interesting to give it a try with standard fuelling setup! is it safe to run a cerbera dry of fuel? if not, any suggestions how many miles to chance it once the red light comes on so I can run the old pump fuel out?
cheers
Wouldn't expect much difference to be honest.
It'll burn fractionally slower so you may be down on power very slightly but not enough to be perceptible. If the current ignition timing has been retarded to avoid knock then you can realize some extra power by advancing it to the (new) optimum. Similarly if excess fuel has been used to suppress knock then you will be able to lean it off slightly which will release a small amount of extra power. Otherwise the only way to get any real gains will be to raise the compression ratio. It shouldn't make any difference to pops and bangs unless there is something wrong causing a misfire or excess fuelling combined with an air leak.
It'll burn fractionally slower so you may be down on power very slightly but not enough to be perceptible. If the current ignition timing has been retarded to avoid knock then you can realize some extra power by advancing it to the (new) optimum. Similarly if excess fuel has been used to suppress knock then you will be able to lean it off slightly which will release a small amount of extra power. Otherwise the only way to get any real gains will be to raise the compression ratio. It shouldn't make any difference to pops and bangs unless there is something wrong causing a misfire or excess fuelling combined with an air leak.
When i first started remapping cerbs one of the things we tried was high octane fuel ( think it was 102RON) and it gave no more hp than optimax. Seems that once youre up around 98/9 RON then the cerb combustion chamber has given all it's going to. You won't see any extra hp from using high octane anyway unless you can remap to take accountof it. My best guess is you'll be down in the pocket and no extra hp.
you can get more bhp with race fuel IF you select the correct grade for your compression and the set your advance to make the most of it. But its for the track not the road. here its a waste of cash as jools says.
if you get a high octance race fuel from sunoco and then mix it to the correct grade (2parts optimax to 1 part race fuel to get 105ron) your costs, tho still high, are reasonable and you can run regular optimax on the road.
My race engine runs cr 12.5-1 and when ignition was set full for full fat fuel - 38 degrees istr (designed for 105ron) we could push 400 bhp. Running on race fuel only (112ron) gained nothing as the engine wasn't built for it, just what sunoco said would happen.
running huge advance is where the bhp comes from, but thats only half the story...it makes the car seriously punchy on the throttle.
Race fuel was the first thing to go when we had to detune for the challenge.
basically, if you have a road engine and replace optimax with race fuel without work, you will feel a slight performance gain, mainly from the serious lack of weight in the drivers hip pocket.
if you get a high octance race fuel from sunoco and then mix it to the correct grade (2parts optimax to 1 part race fuel to get 105ron) your costs, tho still high, are reasonable and you can run regular optimax on the road.
My race engine runs cr 12.5-1 and when ignition was set full for full fat fuel - 38 degrees istr (designed for 105ron) we could push 400 bhp. Running on race fuel only (112ron) gained nothing as the engine wasn't built for it, just what sunoco said would happen.
running huge advance is where the bhp comes from, but thats only half the story...it makes the car seriously punchy on the throttle.
Race fuel was the first thing to go when we had to detune for the challenge.
basically, if you have a road engine and replace optimax with race fuel without work, you will feel a slight performance gain, mainly from the serious lack of weight in the drivers hip pocket.
Edited by Guillotine on Sunday 16th September 19:21
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff