HELP! Clutch pedal /push rod linkage fork pin seized
HELP! Clutch pedal /push rod linkage fork pin seized
Author
Discussion

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Monday 17th September 2007
quotequote all
Hi.
Most of you will know me from the other thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
about my "gear selection problems when HOT", well I found my master cylinder leaking and am in the middle of replacing it.
Everythings undone apart from the little swing clip pin holding the fork onto the top of the clutch pedal....IT WONT COME OFF!!! I've tried some freeze & release spray, a few times tonight and it still wont come off. Adam mentioned in the other thread to remove the whole pedal box, I really dont want to do this, there must be some knack in this tight space to get it out of the hole!!?? The pin sleeve/arm has been forced to swing down but the pin has not retracted out of the hole at all. I thought of some type of screw clamp, to push the pin out, and tried pliers and mole grips but it wont budge!! I wish I could fit my sledge hammer in there!!!

Edited by .Woody on Wednesday 19th September 06:50

leorest

2,346 posts

269 months

Monday 17th September 2007
quotequote all
Can you drill it out using a hobby drill or dremel?

ed_crouch

1,169 posts

272 months

Monday 17th September 2007
quotequote all
Cut the b*stard off and replace it! That'll learn it...

Ed.


Edited by ed_crouch on Monday 17th September 22:02

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Monday 17th September 2007
quotequote all
Is it possible to remove driver's seat, lay face-up on the floor pan and use a pin punch and small hammer to drift the pin out of the pedal clevis?

dickymint

29,093 posts

288 months

Monday 17th September 2007
quotequote all
I would use something like a chain link extractor..........



If you have a small clamp maybe you can cobble something up to press it out.

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
leorest said:
Can you drill it out using a hobby drill or dremel?
Not sure if theres enough room in there for a drill, well not one of mine anyway! the side the protuding pin is on the hidden side too next to the tunnel so is even harder to access

ed_crouch said:
Cut the b*stard off and replace it! That'll learn it...

Ed.
I might have ripped it off before I cut it off but I still need to get the pin out

honestjohntoo said:
Is it possible to remove driver's seat, lay face-up on the floor pan and use a pin punch and small hammer to drift the pin out of the pedal clevis?
Whats a pin punch? Sounds feasible, I'll try and search for one, no swing room to strike a hammer, but I guess I can try!
dickymint said:
I would use something like a chain link extractor..........

If you have a small clamp maybe you can cobble something up to press it out.
That chain extractor might work or a small clamp, but I will have to find some channel bar or bridge type piece, as to push it out it needs room on the other side to get out, and using a clamp will stop it coming out

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
oh its like a "centre pop"? you still need a hammer to hit it tho confused

dickymint

29,093 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
.Woody said:
dickymint said:
I would use something like a chain link extractor..........

If you have a small clamp maybe you can cobble something up to press it out.
That chain extractor might work or a small clamp, but I will have to find some channel bar or bridge type piece, as to push it out it needs room on the other side to get out, and using a clamp will stop it coming out
Nip round your local bike shop and borrow one. Failing that - small clamp and a handful of washers to use as a bridge. A bit fiddly but should work.

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
The arm attached to the pin will get in the way for washers to do the job, but good idea Dicky, thanks, will try something similar hopefully thumbup

GreenV8S

31,020 posts

314 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Why has it seized? If the metal has become deformed for whatever reason then trying to press it out is likely to make it worse because it may simply bulge or bend. I think the first step should be to get the pin turning. If it's just corrosion or dried up oil/grease glueing it in place then it might be fine once you have freed it. Otherwise try to work it sideways as it turns. Try not to grip it on the side that has to go through the hole (iyswim) because if you damage the surface it makes it harder to get it through the hole.

dickymint

29,093 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Come on men it's a piddly little old clevis pin!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-pc-MINI-G-CLAMP-SET-25-50-...



Drill a hole in the bottom jaw and wang it out. smash

Edited by dickymint on Tuesday 18th September 09:41

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
I sprayed it about 4 times last night, and this morning at 6:10am!

In between them times I had the long nosed pliers on the thin arm and pulled it hardder than I've ever pulled anything before!! Its a bit deformed now, poor soul! Dont wanna pull it much more (as it might drop off!) and just leave a ragged end on top of the pin. I levered it also against the pedal arm to try and withdraw the pin from the hole. I just cant believe its that tight! I'll look in Halfords for some small clamps and the chain link extractor on my way home tonight.

...I'm guesssing it may have seized from possible fumes off the clutch fluid leak? Thats all I can think anyway, as I said the brake pedal connection is the same and that comes off fine and looks brand new

Edited by .Woody on Tuesday 18th September 10:13

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Try some brake fluid on it too.

Failing that, what about heat? Have you got one of those mini-butane blowtorches, looks like a thick pen? If you can get it up to a few hundred degrees it might loosen a bit.

Make sure you have some water handy when doing this. I have found that one of the kid's supersoakers is really useful when welding and the like, in case anything catches.

Also - now you've been attacking it a bit, you might get the oil to penetrate better if you use the clutch pedal, try it about 20 times (or more if you work out!), it might work it in better.

TVRleigh(BBWR)

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
can you not cut the sides off with a small hack saw, so you can remove the master cyclinder.
Then you should be able to use the washer and clap trick to remove the bar from the peddle.

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Thanks,
I'll try the above tonight...apart from the blow torch bit!!! NO way, I can trust myself with fire in the footwell, No way!

TVRleigh(BBWR)

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Also Fire and brake fluid don't mix, it the main cause of engine fires not petrol.
Brake fluid will even catch fire with heat, it does not even need a flame unlike petrol.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Good point - clean all that off first. But it's only for the brave - especially when upside down head first!

How does the top of the clutch pedal attach - is there a removable pin there? I can't remember. If so - you could take just that pedal off, maybe.

Another thought is - who cares? Just unscrew the pushrod from the clevis bit, then take off the master. Put the new one back in and screw the rod back on. Leave the rusted pin in place, it's not going anywhere, job done!

.Woody

Original Poster:

1,790 posts

257 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
Thanks Adam smile, will try all that too

dickymint

29,093 posts

288 months

Tuesday 18th September 2007
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Another thought is - who cares? Just unscrew the pushrod from the clevis bit, then take off the master. Put the new one back in and screw the rod back on. Leave the rusted pin in place, it's not going anywhere, job done!
Pure genius clap