Rear Diff, Refill Point, Removal and Oil?
Discussion
Hi All,
Looks like i've got an oil leak on the rear diff of my 97 450. Its the BTR Diff. Sorry if some of these questions are obvious, i haven't got my bible, or car nearby.
I've looked and i can't see an obvious refill point (Looking from underneath) can someone give me a bit of guidance as to where it is, or supply a picture if they have one?
The leak looks to be coming from the back plate, so i assume its just a diff removal, back plate off, new gasket or liquid sealant and then refit. What sort of a job is it to get the rear diff off? Do i need to remove the drive shafts from the outer hubs, and does the prop unbolt from the diff or is it a slide out spline arrangement.
And finally, what oil should i use if i can't track down the Mobil One stuff, i can get Millers oils fairly easily.
Thanks
Matt
Looks like i've got an oil leak on the rear diff of my 97 450. Its the BTR Diff. Sorry if some of these questions are obvious, i haven't got my bible, or car nearby.
I've looked and i can't see an obvious refill point (Looking from underneath) can someone give me a bit of guidance as to where it is, or supply a picture if they have one?
The leak looks to be coming from the back plate, so i assume its just a diff removal, back plate off, new gasket or liquid sealant and then refit. What sort of a job is it to get the rear diff off? Do i need to remove the drive shafts from the outer hubs, and does the prop unbolt from the diff or is it a slide out spline arrangement.
And finally, what oil should i use if i can't track down the Mobil One stuff, i can get Millers oils fairly easily.
Thanks
Matt
Getting the Diff out is fairly straight forward. Exhaust off, remove the flange bolts on each drive shaft and the prop shaft coupling. Disconnect the speed sensor (taking careful note of the air gap). Remove the fixing bolts and after a bit of wiggling sideways it will drop out.
Ideally you do really need some help when it comes to actually dropping it out and getting it back in again as it is quite heavy. Also it is a job that ideally should be done on a lift rather than axle stands.
I put Millers in mine, the LSD doesn’t work properly but then it didn’t before I put the millers in so probably can’t blame it for that.
Ideally you do really need some help when it comes to actually dropping it out and getting it back in again as it is quite heavy. Also it is a job that ideally should be done on a lift rather than axle stands.
I put Millers in mine, the LSD doesn’t work properly but then it didn’t before I put the millers in so probably can’t blame it for that.
For a simple check/top up in the mean time, the fill plug is on the drivers side half way up the side, with a 1/2" square recess which fits a torque wrench nicely.
I had to put the rear of the car up on axle stands to check mine although be aware the car is of course not flat which will affect the level.
Oil should just come out if it is filled correctly, topping up requires some long tubing, a small gear oil bottle and a lot of patience.
I use LSD Diff oil.
I had to put the rear of the car up on axle stands to check mine although be aware the car is of course not flat which will affect the level.
Oil should just come out if it is filled correctly, topping up requires some long tubing, a small gear oil bottle and a lot of patience.
I use LSD Diff oil.
Refill point on a BTR is on the driver's side just in front of the driveshaft flange.
If the leak is coming from the back plate joint I would have thought you should be able to do it without taking the diff out? Remove top mounting(4 bolts into back plate, 1 long N&B holding mounting up), support diff, remove back plate, refit with sealant.
Have changed my BTR diff recently, fairly straightforward job but if you can fix the leak without removing it it would be worth the effort to avoid taking it out or more to the point getting it back in. Taking it out is a lot easier than putting it back!!
I used Morris LODEXOL XFS 80W/140 if that helps.
I took some pics, if you need to know something specific mail me your address and I will see if I have what you are after.
If the leak is coming from the back plate joint I would have thought you should be able to do it without taking the diff out? Remove top mounting(4 bolts into back plate, 1 long N&B holding mounting up), support diff, remove back plate, refit with sealant.
Have changed my BTR diff recently, fairly straightforward job but if you can fix the leak without removing it it would be worth the effort to avoid taking it out or more to the point getting it back in. Taking it out is a lot easier than putting it back!!
I used Morris LODEXOL XFS 80W/140 if that helps.
I took some pics, if you need to know something specific mail me your address and I will see if I have what you are after.
Thanks for all replies
Although, if its do-able, i'd much rather try it in situ that removing the diff to do it on the bench, i'll have a better look when i top up the diff. Thanks to everyone for their help
Just oil to decide on now then
Matt
Ribol said:
Refill point on a BTR is on the driver's side just in front of the driveshaft flange.
If the leak is coming from the back plate joint I would have thought you should be able to do it without taking the diff out? Remove top mounting(4 bolts into back plate, 1 long N&B holding mounting up), support diff, remove back plate, refit with sealant.
Have changed my BTR diff recently, fairly straightforward job but if you can fix the leak without removing it it would be worth the effort to avoid taking it out or more to the point getting it back in. Taking it out is a lot easier than putting it back!!
I used Morris LODEXOL XFS 80W/140 if that helps.
I took some pics, if you need to know something specific mail me your address and I will see if I have what you are after.
I only had a quick look, but it did seem quite a job to get to the back plate, with lots of things in the way to prevent it coming off in situ, but then i didn't look to hard as to whether those items will come off.If the leak is coming from the back plate joint I would have thought you should be able to do it without taking the diff out? Remove top mounting(4 bolts into back plate, 1 long N&B holding mounting up), support diff, remove back plate, refit with sealant.
Have changed my BTR diff recently, fairly straightforward job but if you can fix the leak without removing it it would be worth the effort to avoid taking it out or more to the point getting it back in. Taking it out is a lot easier than putting it back!!
I used Morris LODEXOL XFS 80W/140 if that helps.
I took some pics, if you need to know something specific mail me your address and I will see if I have what you are after.
Although, if its do-able, i'd much rather try it in situ that removing the diff to do it on the bench, i'll have a better look when i top up the diff. Thanks to everyone for their help
Just oil to decide on now then
Matt
RedCabbage said:
Ribol said:
RedCabbage said:
For a simple check/top up in the mean time, the fill plug is on the drivers side half way up the side, with a 1/2" square recess which fits a torque wrench nicely.
Not on my BTR.
What's on yours?
StreetDragster said:
I only had a quick look, but it did seem quite a job to get to the back plate, with lots of things in the way to prevent it coming off in situ, but then i didn't look to hard as to whether those items will come off.
Although, if its do-able, i'd much rather try it in situ that removing the diff to do it on the bench, i'll have a better look when i top up the diff.
You may well be right, it may not be possible. I had a noisy pinion bearing so it was always going to have to come out in my case.Although, if its do-able, i'd much rather try it in situ that removing the diff to do it on the bench, i'll have a better look when i top up the diff.
If whoever decided the distance between the chassis rails had added on 20mm extra to whatever distance it is, swapping a diff would be a hell of a lot easier.
Hi All,
Well got the car up at the weekend, its like a bit of a mare to get the backplate off, but not impossible in situ.
However, my car has the Offords cherry bomb mod, and as such, it turns out that the exhausts are now one piece front to back, and i haven't got the height to get it off in my garage. So i'm just going to top the diff up and take it to Automedon for them to fix on their ramp.
Cheers for all help so far.
Also, according to Opie Oils, Castrol SAF-XJ 75w-140 is a suitable replacement for Mobil SHC80w-140ID so I've ordered that to top up the diff (I was ordering engine oil anyway)
Thanks
Matt
Well got the car up at the weekend, its like a bit of a mare to get the backplate off, but not impossible in situ.
However, my car has the Offords cherry bomb mod, and as such, it turns out that the exhausts are now one piece front to back, and i haven't got the height to get it off in my garage. So i'm just going to top the diff up and take it to Automedon for them to fix on their ramp.
Cheers for all help so far.
Also, according to Opie Oils, Castrol SAF-XJ 75w-140 is a suitable replacement for Mobil SHC80w-140ID so I've ordered that to top up the diff (I was ordering engine oil anyway)
Thanks
Matt
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